JMortensen

Here's Coffey's post on the 46mm Bilsteins. I believe these are the shocks that he put on the the rally car in question: They were rather expensive as I recall.

No tech, but how about a 10R80?

One nice thing about John was that he'd say those things straight to your face, and since we conversed so often I'm sure I have seen most of them. You've still derailed the conversation from being about how to take a Z off road into how little Carl Beck knows and how your superior pedantry can solve the problem of how to set up a V8 Z for light duty off roading.

I can see how those pedantic details are germane to a discussion about a V8 rally/safari inspired build like the one the OP is building. Oh wait, no I can't. OP, you want to see something RIDICULOUS? Take a look at the bolt in roll bar that they used in those old works cars. I was ROFL when I saw one for the first time...

Carl Beck owns a rally Z, his email is at the bottom of the page I linked to previously. He's also on Facebook and is always willing to help. John Coffey built this one a few years ago. Unfortunately he died in a motorcycle wreck. Real loss for the Z community. I think he had some posts here about it, but my impression was that the biggest change was some custom long travel Bilstein struts. Had a pretty beefy skid plate and push bar, and the roof rack. I haven't talked to the owners of the car, but they don't seem like the secretive type and would probably answer questions you might have. https://www.facebook.com/p2p240z/

https://zhome.com/History/rally.htm

Dan McGrath and I simultaneously came up with this idea for a control arm. This design reduces side loading vs any H arm. Covered in the thread below. I remain convinced that it is the best design out there (that I've seen anyway) and I was happy to help Apex with the design. As to the camber issue, you should be adjusting that with plates on top IMO. We have all seen the photos of the guys with the rod ends turned way out to add camber, but it's really not a good idea. Been a while since I did the math, but from memory I believe the engineering rule of thumb is 2x the diameter should be in the arm, which on a 5/8" rod end means you can move it out something like 5/16" before you hit that limit.

Not to speak for the OP, but I had something like this on my truck and there were no jam nuts and it never moved. You can get them though. Several options here: http://eastcoastspeed.com/c-701479-suspension-front-weight-jacks-jack-bolts.html

Wow! Cool idea if you wanted to lift the rear end. Would need holes in the hood up front to run it. Very NASCAR.

Aftermarket arms are the easy button. If you want you can buy camber bushings for the rear as they adjust toe too and are cheaper than arms. I really like the Apex Engineering arms. They were modeled on mine, so I might be a bit biased... If you can fabricate you could make a rear toe adjuster like a handful of us did here:

Are those the billet chromoly ones, Joe? I'm betting Richard wants to know more about them.

Call Tilton or Wilwood and they will help you decide

That's a tricky question, because pedal feel and overall performance have lots of different variables. Rotor size, caliper size, pad size, pedal leverage ratio, etc all affect how much pedal effort you need and how well it will perform. With the pedal ratio modded to close to 5:1 with 12.2" rotors, Superlight 1.75 4 pistons and Dynalite 1 3/8 4 pistons and Hawk Black pads and after messing with the balance bar a bit I think my brakes feel pretty good. In fact, if I stuck someone else in the car and didn't tell them, I doubt they would know that it was a manual setup. That said others running 6:1 ratios seem to like bigger masters, more like 1".

Found 3 more on my FB page:

I don't even remember having a photobucket account. Tried to log in, all I had were the wind tunnel test pics in there. I know I had more pics at one time, this is all I could find.

Sorry to see you go.

Wow. Forgot about those pics. Amazing that something so utilitarian and basic was on a car that won so many national championships. I agree that a cradle is the way to go. I think blueovalz's rear setup integrating the diff mount was a nice idea, but that sort of thing (ideally tubing and not a big AL plate) could be integrated with something like this, so that the cradle which mounts the diff and the LCA mounts is a separate bolt in assembly and attaches to the stock mounts for mustache bar and diff xmember/strap mounting points. TSS Fabrication makes similar products for Subaru rally cars. I think he puts too many bends in his products where he could have straight tubing, but here's an example and a link to some more inspiration. https://www.facebook.com/pg/TSSFAB.US/