JMortensen

You'd have to do it and test it to know for sure. My hunch is that the cam he has is leaving some hp on the table, just as my cam was, and I'd guess that he'd have more area under the curve.

More headwork is not a bad idea either, but I think ultimately that cam will hold you back from the highest top end numbers you can get out of that motor. I had a very similar build: L28 flat tops with E31 that was shaved, around 11:1 compression, 490/.280 cam, 44s with 37 chokes, header and 2.5", MSD 6AL and ZX distributor, light flywheel, etc. Very similar sounding build. I did a lot of work done in the chamber to get rid of any hotspots, ground off extra spark plug hole threads, had all sharp edges removed, unshrouded valves, cc'd chambers, etc. As much work as I could do to it myself in the garage, basically. The head already had hardened seats installed and had a really nicely done blending of the bowls done by a local machinist. It made pretty good power but I always felt like for a really hot street motor I wanted something more in the .500/300 range. BRAAP was selling a cam that was something like .540/300 or something. That was the one that I had pretty much settled on before I decided on swapping in a V8 instead. It was still streetable but suppsedly made enough of a difference up top that BRAAP was endorsing it, and I trust his judgment.

Just FYI, that shows the advance at the distributor rpms, which is half of the crank rpm. So it shows 8.5 degrees at 1400 distributor rpm. That means 17 at 2800 rpm.

ZX distributors have 16 or 17 degrees mechanical advance, depending on whether you have one off of a manual or automatic trans car. 6AL doesn't adjust timing at all. The vacuum advance is almost always broken. Re: numbers. I'd go bigger on the cam.

Sorry to hear that. It was nice having someone other than John at ztrix.com who you could buy fiberglass from and count on it being right. Did biz with him a couple times, always bent over backwards to get me what I wanted the way that I wanted it.

FWIW, I tried to change down to a 5/8" clutch master to make it easier to slip, didn't have enough throw to disengage the clutch. Stick with 3/4, based on my experience.

Mine is a dual 7.25". I finished my car in Oct '15 and took it out once, then my biz took a crap and I haven't had it out again. Biz is back in the black, so I'll probably be out again soon. From what I can tell, the clutch is really grabby and I did basically what Cary said; got the revs up and let it out quickly. Never stalled it but it wasn't "easy" to drive. Not a bit deal to spin the tires on the line at an autox, so street driving may be different... Revs fast though!

I'm referring people from FB to Hybrid Z just about every day. There is so much info here, and FB is like a conversation rather than a library. You say something and it VERY quickly gets lost in the ether on FB. I wish forums were more popular because I think they are a more functional solution to sharing info. Sometimes "progress" isn't.

Beef up the front mounts when you install the bar so that you don't tear up the frame rails.

Helical is weak in terms of lockup. They're just not very aggressive. Flip side is you get less understeer from the LSD with helical than CLSD.

To put it differently, it's easier to get the end cap on if you have the clutch disk teeth pointing towards the center of the housing, rather than pointing away from the center.

Could be the PO removed the spacers, could be a Japanese diff. The R31 or R32 (forget) diffs that Arizona Z Car was importing years and years ago had the NISMO competition LSD, which has more aggressive ramps and no spacers. Re getting that last clutch in, I found it easier to flip it so that the teeth were in the housing than to try and compress and finagle the teeth in correctly. YMMV. Not sure what you mean about the clunk. If it chatters add more friction modifier. If it's the old diff clunk on and off the gas, this thread may help: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105207-the-dreaded-diff-clunk/

Dan, that is the one. Legends spacer. I just looked it up and the 300ZX has the same bearings as the 240Z in the front, so the real difference, if there is one, is going to be the length of the spacer. I suppose there might be a difference too if the taper on the spindle was incompatible with the legends spacer. I would guess they're damn close, as people can run 300ZX hubs on 240Z, as we saw with the old Modern Motorsports 5 lug conversion kit for the front. The threads are super fine so you can adjust to just exactly the size you need. I thought I had a thread where I gave the actual length that I adjusted to, but in looking wasn't able to find it. Anyway if you adjust it like it says in the instructions, should be good to go.

I don't expect to feel a difference. I can say that if you spin the wheel without the caliper mounted it just goes and goes, which is part of the idea. The other part was to try and use both bearings when turning. I figure I'll reduce drag and maybe just get a little longer life out of the bearings. There was a thread on another forum where Jack Hidley (guy I used to autox with and an engineer for Maximum Motorsports - they make some of the best road racing Mustang parts) was saying that he had a pretty strong preference for steel hubs over AL because the expansion properties of the steel hubs keeps the bearing loads more constant. So next time I'll go steel hubs and keep the spacers.

Use high temp brake grease on the back of the pads. Might also try a different pad.

They did change the R180s at some point. I can't recall when they switched, maybe late 70's, but the ID of the ring gear changed. You wouldn't be able to swap that LSD into a 1970 R180, I'm pretty sure of that. Related thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/32659-ring-gear-spacer-for-115mm-r180/

^^^ This. The bump stops you see in the Energy Suspension bushing kit are crap.

Might have sheared the roll pin that holds the shift fork on, so now the shaft moves but the shift fork is no longer attached to it. Some racers have had that problem so they double pin the forks. Another problem I've seen a couple times is that the Nissan transmissions can get stuck in 2 gears at once. This locks the trans solid and the shifter won't move, so I don't think that's your problem. From the sound of it you're going to have to pull the tranny and open it up to figure it out.

Read this all the way through. He installs incorrectly, then fixes: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares/

Here's just a couple things that I've noticed about different flares on Zs: 1.ZGs are almost universally installed too low in the rear. That's where they line up best with the body lines, but unless you're running a 20" tall tire on a 13" rim like they did when those flares were originally produced, you're going to rub if you put them so that the top of the flare is close to the belt line of the car. 2. Subtle Z is big enough for 275/35/15 Hoosier tires which a lot of people use for autoxing. 3. The 940 is in between the YZ and the subtle in width. I think it's pretty close to the ZGs in terms of rooms for tires. 4. The BAMF ZGs will fit around the same size tires as the YZ, but probably has the same issue with people putting them on too low (not positive about that). Is there a reliable source for these? 5. The IMSA flares were originally used with a 16 x 15 wheel in the back. I've got 15x14s on mine and they fit really nicely. In the front you'd need to size down to at least a 12" wide rim, might have to go 10s to clear when the wheels are turned. Probably depends on offset, etc too. The rear flares are friggin gigantic.

One problem that you will have with using another spindle is that it was designed for the strut angle in the car that it came from. If you put a 280ZX front strut on a Z, for example, the camber is all F'd up. I can't remember which way it goes, it's been 25 years since I did it, but I want to say it had 4 degrees positive camber or something like that.

Took this one the other day. Needs bath.

One of the very few FG dealers worth buying from.

I never understood why nobody makes a slip on rotor for a Z. I suppose the rotor hat would have to be stupid deep to work on a stock hub, but with all the aftermarket hubs, nobody has done it. Probably screws everything up: change the hub, then the LCA hits and snowballs everything else from there, but that seems like something that would have been figured out by now. FWIW, you would move the rack BACK to increase Ackerman. I did it, then actually mapped it out on paper. It didn't help much unfortunately, really the difference was negligible. All the details on what I measured and what the results were are in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97092-toe-changes-for-track-use/page-4 Totally agree with Chickenman on the tapered rollers. If you really want to DIY your suspension, look at circle track parts. They've got everything: BIG bearing hubs (wide 5), adjustable upper and lower control arms, many different steering rack configs, tubular sway bars, cheap (good) shocks, good brakes, etc.

IIRC, the stock driver's side can go to the other side, and then the short one that I sent goes on the driver's side. Doesn't matter though. If it fits in there and doesn't bind at full droop it will be OK.