JMortensen

I don't think it's the cam. That "stage 4" is not that radical, it should be a Stage 2 in my opinion. I've got basically the same thing and haven't needed any auxiliary source of vacuum, and Zmanco said the same.

Very nice Terry! I was thinking that adding the bit between the two rod ends would significantly stiffen the arm. Good to have some verification of that.

I bought the JSK Innovations setup, which is NLA, front and rear. There is some question as to whether the rear will actually work or not. I guess I'll figure that out when I get there...

Gotta be past dark in NC... so, uh... where's your bid?

I'm 99% that it is the same or within .25"

I think this is a misunderstanding. It's not the billet mount that fails, it's the stamped steel crossmember. It has happened enough times for it to be more than just a coincidence. If you have a better explanation I'd love to hear it. As far as I'm concerned until I see a better explanation I'm going to go with the torsional force on the crossmember tore it up. The trick seems to be putting the solid diff mount on with stock rubber bushings on the mustache bar. That's when it seems to happen I think...

Which one of them is from Vegas? I generally don't pay much attention to where people are on these forums...

Hey, you know what? If you did nothing but sell diff parts for a couple years and you sold HUNDREDS of Trak-Loks and got to the point where you could describe WHAT and HOW it was going to go wrong, you might have a different opinion. I'm just trying to save the guy who thinks that this is going to be a real upgrade from making what I think is a mistake. You guys and I can disagree, and I'll still respect your opinions in other areas.

Actually the S130 front mount controls both types of torque. the wide spacing of the crossmember mounts controls the twisting torque, and the solid mount controls the lift. In the case of the S130 the rear bolt is just a hanger as Clifton described.

Well I'm running out of ways to explain. Anyone else care to take another crack at it?

Wow. That is thinking outside the box. I love it.

Yeah, don't get frustrated and give up. Learn, and be happy about it. EDIT--Just want to say that I mean that sincerely, when I read it it looks like it could be taken as kind of an assholish statement, but that's not how I meant it.

Ron is exactly right. Look at the front mount/crossmember setup on the S130. Makes the S30 mustache bar look wimpy. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116117

I don't think that closing down the back of the car is the best thing to do from an aerodynamics perspective. Just wanted to point that out because many of your other mods were done with aero as a priority as I recall.

Hp is hp. Torque is torque. More is better.

I changed the title of this thread this morning to make it easier to find. Also putting it in the FAQ section.

I changed the title of this thread this morning to make it easier to find. Also putting it in the FAQ section.

Really. I've never tried lubricating the blade. I'll definitely have to give that a shot, since I know what a difference it makes when drilling. Thanks.

I was referring to the monoballs clunking around, should have specified what kind of noise I was talking about...

Thanks for the help Zmanco. Here is another way to say it: The rotation of the driveshaft is perpendicular to the centerline of the car. So that is a side to side torque. The ring and pinion convert that torque to be on the fore/aft plane instead of the side/side plane. With me so far? When there is a lot of resistance in this conversion process, the byproduct is torque. Without resistance, you have no torque, right? So the torque on the driveshaft makes the differential case want to spin. The mustache bar keeps the diff from just doing a barrel roll under the car. Once that rotational torque has been handled, then the next one is at the ring and pinion. The pinion wants to crawl up the ring gear rather then move the car forward. Hold the nose of the diff down limits the loss of torque thru the lifting of the diff and now the power HAS to go thru the gears and out to the axles and will actually drive the car.

Com-12 3/4" monoballs. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp3.htm I think I'm going to put better quality monoballs in before I actually run the car.

Hmm. My parents put skylights in their house when I was 7 or 8 years old. Still there, no leaks. I'm 31 now, so... ???

I think we agree that the front diff mount is better positioned to control the front of the diff lifting. You can stop a lifting force with a narrow mount fairly easily because it is meant to take a vertical load. The torque on the other hand requires a different type of mount. That is the reason why the mustache bar attachment points are spread out. Even on the later models the mounts are much wider and farther apart than the front diff mount bolt holes. You wouldn't want one motor mount that attached directly to the bottom of the oil pan, right?

One thing about exposed rafters that I've been thinking of lately... It would be much easier to put in skylights. I want my next garage to be full of skylights. Too much lighting is never enough. My current garage has 4 4' long flourescent lamps and a bunch of incandescent bulbs and it is DARK in there.

I'm not following you. You're saying that the diff pivots where the axles are? That would mean the case bends. I've seen several Z's where the front diff mount went, the strap snapped, and the front of the diff lifted up far enough that the driveshaft U-joint started beating the ebrake and the trans tunnel. I'm pretty sure the diff pivots at the mustache bar and the axles are just along for the ride. The mustache bar's purpose is to transmit all of the torque from the driveline into the chassis. That's why it is anchored to those 2 huge bolts that come straight down through the frame rails. It does matter if the mustache bar bushings are solid or flexible, especially with a solid front mount. bjhines has posted pictures of a front diff crossmember that was literally TORN by the torque from the driveline. Making the mustache bar so wide and strong makes it a good way to transmit torque to the frame. The solid front mount alone is not a good way to do it. If the rear bushings are still flexible (even poly) you'll still have some twist going to the front mount. If you're going to solid mount it, solid mount it. Solid bushings in the back coupled with a solid front diff mount means that all three bushing locations handle the torque together, and that's the way it should be done in my opinion.