JMortensen

My wife was the one that actually got the appraisal. I think she just looked up appraisers in the phone book. If you can't find someone that way call around to body shops.

Turbo heads have square ports. You'd have to get some thick walled ells and port the crap out of it to match up...

Yes elevation makes a big difference. Cobra, this has been beaten to death already, but Bastaad525 was running a similar setup (I think he had the same cam, flat tops, N42, but with SUs) in Northridge with similar elevation and gas quality. IIRC he had to turn the timing down to about 25 degrees full advance. Personally I'd go with a lower compression engine that could hit mid 30 degree advance without pinging. You might be able to get away with it if you had the larger 13076 cam, but I don't think that Stage III is going to lower the dynamic compression enough to run 91. One thing that would help a little tiny bit would be to run a stock Nissan headgasket. It's a lot better than a POS Fel Pro gasket anyways, and it would drop the compression just a hair.

Get an appraisal. Bring your receipts and tell them why you want it. I did that and got my Z appraised for the value of the parts I had put in it, so it's now insured for $15K.

I'd like to see what effect raising the LCA pivot but not raising the TC pivot has. That's a common thing that I think effects dive quite a bit. Also the effect of the clevis type TC rod. Maybe analyze the JTR mod, moving the LCA pivot 3/4" up and 1/4" out and see what that does to bumpsteer and dive. That's all I can come up with right off the top...

Kinda true IME. By adding triples I immediately went slower at autox, but at the big track I was WAY faster. In my case that is because I had 3.70 gears, and I was at too low an rpm coming out of slow 2nd gear corners. The national level autoxers use Mikunis, not SUs. But they also have much shorter gears to keep the revs up at slow speeds. Again we're back into street vs race. Not too nice to drive on the freeway at 70 mph doing 4500 or 5000 rpm, but it does prove that the carbs can be made to work at slow speeds. We'll see how mine peforms with the new shorter gears I've got going in... I'm hopeful that I'll have much better results at autox.

Supposedly the chassis is wider. I guess that hasn't been verified to date...

I think Terry has the right answer if you really want to be anal. I know my arms point forwards quite a bit, and the guy who made my arms made the spacers the same thickness as stock. So if you wanted them perpendicular I'd make the front spacer shorter than stock. But it really doesn't make a difference IME.

Still, you got to admit that the change from SU's, even bigger SU's, to triples made one hell of a difference for him "fundamentally transformed above 5500rpm" is a pretty strong statement. And then there is my wife, who was AFRAID of my car after installing the triples, when she used to kick the *** end out getting on the freeway with SU's. First time I took her out I hit it and she turned GREEN and told me to slow down!!! SU's are better in town and at low rpms. No doubt. I thought we were arguing whether triples would produce a large hp gain. I think it's clear that in our two cases they did.

Compare this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99611 To this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87359 Is the Rebello dyno optimistic??? What does this mean for the 270whp SU L engine? You be the judge... EDIT--I don't know if Briann510 saw this post or what but his sig now includes trap speed and vehicle weight which mathematically shows 277.7whp on the calculator I just used. Don't know how dyno hp relates to 1/4 trap speed whether it favors one or the other or they're the same. He did dyno 225 at the wheels though. Makes you wonder if Coffey's car would have a trap speed that showed 310whp or whether it would have shown the same 287 that the dyno showed in his case...

Dan said that the you could GET to 6500 rpm with the 2" SU's, but PEAK POWER was at 6500 with the triples. His dyno work does prove that he got 55 whp from adding triples. I got more about Rebello, stay tuned...

15 too young 36 too old 24 JUST RIGHT Hope you figure it out Jessie.

Hey, no prob! Just got tired of seeing the same question over and over. Curious to see if anyone finds fault with this though. Couple guys caught a pretty big error on the bumpsteer FAQ when I did that one.

Nismo280ZEd (I think I F'ed up his username) did something like this, but I think he attached them to the hood rather than the other way around.

OMFG!!! Did it really take him 6 months to finish this? Um... yes. But lemme explain. It was too damn cold to be out in the garage and I only got a garage heater about 2 months ago, then I got sidetracked, made a rotisserie, stitch welded the whole middle section of the car, fixed the cowl rust, I mean I wasn't just working on this... The Tabco panel on the driver's side was a perfect fit. The one for the passenger's side was way wrong. I fought with it for a while and ended up aligning the front part of the panel where it attaches to the rocker, and then cutting the quarter. WRONG!!! For anyone else who has never done bodywork and lacks common sense, match up the damn body lines, not the seam. I ended up having to cut about a pie shaped section off of the front of the panel to get that front part to line up. Once that was lined up and the body line was close, I figured out that I had cut the quarter about 1/2" too high. So I tacked on the replacement Tabco piece, then made a "bridge" piece that hung down about 1" below the bottom of the quarter and tacked it in place. At this point I spot welded the patch to my bridge piece. Then I took a piece of sheet metal and cut it to fit the gap. I had to grind down my spot welds so that the top little sliver patch would fit flush, then I welded that strip to the original quarter and the Tabco piece. For the amount of screwing up I did, I think it came out OK. The back piece in the wheelwell had been cut out, so I used a flat piece of sheet there, contoured it to fit the inside of the Tabco piece, then welded it in. Tedious. Hundreds of little spot welds going on here. I also welded the whole front seam, because I think that seam lets the water into the quarter and that's why we get rust there. Might have been a little overkill to weld the whole length of all the seams, but that's what I did. The only thing left to do is patch a couple of holes that are just a tad to big to weld shut. I figured I'd use the fiberglass or bondo or whatever to fill these little holes unless someone has a better idea for me. I had a friend who used to do bodywork over yesterday and he suggested running another bead down the front seam at the rocker. Both sides have a little gap there because of the way the body curves in to accept the panel on top. I could do it, but I'm thinking I can just bondo it. Suggestions? The very first pic is the bridge to get the quarter attached to the Tabco piece where I cut in the wrong spot. After that I realized I had too much work to do to sit there taking pics, so the rest are all after shots. Enough already pics below...

I was just talking to a girl from Nampa two days ago. She really liked it there, although she prefers Seattle. Checked online and looks like brand new 2700 sq ft upper end houses that would be $900K where I used to live in CA are going for $400 in the Boise area. Figure maybe if you get out of the super rich neighborhood I should find what I want at a price to fit my budget nicely. Albuquerque has come up a few times in my conversations with the wife. I'm probably going to have to rent an RV and tour the whole damn country to figure this out...

Sounds like they were at least in the ballpark Mack. I think a lot of guys as we've said in so many posts can't tune triples to save their ***. So they throw them on, are disappointed because they don't know how to get them running right, then take them off and post a "triples suck" thread on the internet. Ed, I'm thinking of you buddy... hope that MS system works better for you. I had my teething issues as well, but I had a little help from some people who knew enough to get me through. Not that it's any scientifically verifiable proof or anything, but I believe the Mikuni ads quoted a 25% increase in power on an L24 and a 20% increase on an L28. My experience tends to back that figure up.

I don't know about John, but I'm not particularly keen on telling you to disable warning lights in your car. But if it were a race car then I'd run the plumbing without any extra valves or sensors and use a proportioning valve in the rear.

My 80 year old next door neighbor loves my car. She told me about her friend who got one just when they first came out and they went downtown thinking they were hot stuff. She also thinks the neighborhood is too geriatric so she loves to hear me running my air compressor and working on it. I'm not kidding.

You probably won't need a proportioning valve at all since your fronts are so much bigger than your rears. You can always put the prop valve in and open it all the way up, then take it out if the rears still don't feel like they're doing anything. I expect the rears would work a LOT better if you ponied up for the AZC rear brake kit.

The Ground Control unit and I think the MM unit use a pinch bolt which tightens the ID of the nut onto the threads to keep it from moving. The double nut style you show there is also popular. I got the OLD GC units which had a bolt that screwed straight into the threads. Didn't like that, so I didn't use it. Never had a problem with the spring perches moving on me. I used to autox monthly, so I'd go, drop the car down, race, then raise the perches back up. This part isn't really important other than to show that I checked the ride height a whole bunch of times and it never ever moved.

Not that it really matters as we've established that its just a run of the mill L24, but the engine numbers and VIN numbers don't correspond. On zhome.com's registry HLS30 08077 has engine number L24 09816 for instance. None of them match, I think because the L24 was used in other vehicles as well as the Z.

IMO you're putting too much tire on the rim. I wouldn't go past 235 on an 8" rim or maybe 265 or so on a 9" rim. On a 7, 215. Yes, people do it all the time, but you'll get better traction out of the same tire on an appropriately sized rim.

Sounds like a base circle difference to me. The lift is from the heel of the cam to the top of the cam lobe. A not realistic example: You could start with a cam that was 1" in diameter, and add a lobe that was .5" tall and compare that to a cam that was 10" in diameter and had a lobe that was .1" tall and if you did your string test the 10" diameter cam would look gigantic compared to the .5" lift cam, even though the .5" lift cam actually has 5 times the lift of the .1" lift cam. Easy way to test a cam's lift is to put it in a V block and rotate it while measuring the size of the lobe with a dial indicator. The dial indicator tells you how much tall the lobe is vs the base circle. That's the way it works for L series engines, I would assume its the same on a V8...