JMortensen

I was running a Porsche spark plug with a center electrode and three grounds around the side for a while. I didn't really notice any difference and a friend told me that he had heard some crap about flame front propagation blah blah blah from some expert somewhere and that I was going to burn a hole in a piston. Since they didn't seem to make any difference I just went back to a standard plug. I can say that if you used the Porsche style plug the spark would also be better exposed, but the gap wouldn't have to be so huge...

I think Norm gets some 10ths and some mph just for beating the crap out of his car. Most guys won't thrash their precious car like he always says he does. That WILL make a difference. Shifting as though you don't need to drive the car home later makes a difference. Launching like halfshafts never break makes a difference. Another thing that I think is CONSISTENTLY lacking in L series builds is the cam. I think the Z community would all be better off if MSA renamed the "Stage III" cam the "Stage I" and had Schneider make some more larger cams. I know they don't because the bigger cams don't work with FI and they don't want pissed off customers (plus it probably gives the FI guys the feeling like their cam doesn't suck ***), but the camshaft is a big deal. Bastaad you always say that the L makes more power with the head, but I'm getting a little tired of seeing "built" L series with that .460/270 camshaft. As BRAAP says, more torque higher means more hp. That means a bigger camshaft than that PUNY Stage III. IMO.

You didn't mention Carillo. I think that's the most common aftermarket L series rod. Everything I've read about stock rods says they should hold the power you're expecting.

I saw an autox car about 10 years ago in CA that had a built Pinto engine and some funky front end. The rear suspension was 280Z with the strut chopped off about midway and a custom upper control arm just like your drawing Terry. That's a much better idea IMO than trying to make a DIY 5 link.

Here's what 245whp in FI form looks like: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107528 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105824 Here's what 255whp in carbed form looks like: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=86295 Keep in mind that their engines are strokers, so they have 10% more power than the equivalent 2.8L. 1 fast z's engine as a non stroker should put out about 220whp, Dans should get about 229. So you're basically looking at doing something similar as far as head and intake but without the boring and stroking.

I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but you realize that the 240SX suspension uses a rear spindle, right? So you'd have to cut the strut tube off, and make or find a rear spindle for your new arm to attach to. If you just attached an arm to the existing strut tube it would either have to follow the existing arc of the strut tube exactly (which means that it doesn't do anything) or it would bind horrendously and break stuff. So what you're talking about is finding a coilover shock that attaches top and bottom, figuring a way to attach this to a spindle and then designing and locating links to attach to the spindle so that the suspension stays within a certain camber and toe range throughout the travel. Simpler to cut the whole subframe off a 240SX and get that in the rear of your Z I would think, by a long shot.

Go to the turbo section and read the turbo FAQ post by drax240z.

Here's the most recent thread about this subject, and it has links to maichor's project. Maichor's suspension swap is done and seems to work. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106726

Only two posts below yours in the Driveshaft forum: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107273

Search "Kameari". That is the be all end all chain setup IMO. About $400 from Japan if you can find someone to buy it and ship it across the Pacific IIRC.

Short answer: They're getting old.

Sounds like the master to me. The way to test a master is with slow steady light pressure on the pedal. If you slam on the brakes or pump the pedal it builds the pressure and the pressure will hold the cup seals tight against the bores. Very light pressure won't. Try that and see what it does.

I ran the shoulder belt (Y type) over a harness bar on my Autopower roll bar. The lap belt I bolted into the stock holes over the stock seatbelts. That way I could run the stock belt on the street and then run the 4 point at the track. I didn't ever hook up the submarine belt, but I did get some gigantic flatwashers with it to put on either side of the floor. I think I'm going to weld a plate to the floor and run the sub belt when I get this thing back up and running instead of using the washers. Most guys hook the shoulders to the cage itself or to the rear strut tower bar, preferrably a welded in tube across the towers.

There was a Z on Barrett Jackson once a few years back. Early 240 CP racer I think. Seem to remember it went for $17K or something like that...

First time I went to a POC club event was at Streets of Willow. I went with a friend and we met my boss there. My friend was towing his 510 and was going really slow (his truck wouldn't pull up a hill over about 40 mph) and I was leading him on the highway. When we got off the highway we turned towards the track, and this modded 911 with the big old IMSA whale tail that sticks out about 1 foot farther than the bumper WHIPS into the left lane and blows by us and WHIPS his car into the right lane in front of me. It was a VIOLENT lane change. I can only assume he knew we were headed to the same place... Anyway my ex-boss was an instructor, and he agreed to go around with me the first time and show me the line. As it happened we gridded up behind but the same 911 and my boss said "FORGET about catching that guy. Let's just learn the track." So we go around and I've pretty much got the line. Next session I happen to line up directly behind the same 911 AGAIN. We get the green and head out and it doesn't take me too long to figure out that I can hang with this guy. Pretty soon I'm pushing him in the corners. A lot. We were going down the long straight and at the end we'd be doing about 105 or so. My brakes weren't enjoying this too much and were fading badly. Anyway the guy had me in the straights so he'd pull away but I was all over him in the corners, and I didn't have a snowball's chance in hell of outbraking him. Finally after 2 or 3 laps he gets the blue and yellow flag and pulls over at the end of the straight and I go by. I was screaming victoriously inside my helmet, don't know if anyone in the pits heard me or not though! By the time we ended the session 3 laps later I think I had 5 seconds on him and I was continuing to drive away. Something about exit speed onto the straight = higher straightaway speed. Best part was when I got out of the car I was smiling so hard my face was about to cramp. He drove by with an equally large smile and gave me a big thumbs up. I was the fastest non-Porsche there, got a very big round of applause from the Porsche guys when I got my trophy, and my boss called my car a "hard charger". All in all that was a very good day...

OK then $15 shipped...

If you've got rubber, replace with poly. That is a no brainer. But after that is done then I think Pop is right, that we really don't know where the deflection is coming from.

No, you don't need the washer. If you haven't already gotten the strut onto the control arm again you'll find that the poly bushing is thicker than the stock bushing, so it's damn near impossible to get the strut between the bushings. I used a C clamp on both bushings, stuck the strut in between, and hammered the bottom of the strut to force it in between the bushings and at the same time it was pushing the clamps off. It was a real PITA. Grease is your friend on this project.

I guess my link didn't work. Here's the deal. The 240 came with the weakest pressure plate. The 260 and 280Z came with a stronger pressure plate. If you have an aftermarket 240 pp they are usually the same as the 260 and 280. IME they'll hold down about 200 whp, at which point they start to slip really bad in the higher gears. Put ~250 whp to one and you basically have no ability to launch the car anymore. Mine wouldn't even move. Just sat there burning the clutch. It will also slip for 2-3 seconds between shifts. My ACT pp is holding down my ~240ish whp now just fine, but the stock pp wouldn't do it. If you want to use that flywheel you'll need an aftermarket pp. If not, you'll need a turbo flywheel and a turbo pp with the larger diameter disk. IF YOU SWAP THE CLUTCH YOU NEED THE APPROPRIATE THROWOUT BEARING COLLAR TO GO WITH IT. Even though my link didn't work you can SEARCH "l28 l24 clutch" and you will come up with the same very relevant links that I tried to get you to in the first place, and they will have more info and insight about your question.

I used 3 engine stands to build my rot. You need the third to make the mast section taller so that you can spin the car all the way upside down (if you want to do that--I'm glad I did). I think the stands were ~$50 each from Harbor Freight. I got two of the 1000 lb stands and one of the smaller 750# stands. Then I went to an industrial supply place and got some 1x1 square tubing and some 1 1/2" square tube to make brackets with. I'd say I probably spent ~$200, but it was a lot easier IMO to make it the way I did vs with a big pile of scrap metal. Here's some help for you: Good rot thread. I put my pivot just where Zerrari GTO said and mine is just a bit top heavy I'd go between 2.5" and 3" for a 240 vs his 280. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104151 Info on the front mount: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105319 Why you might want to go all the way upside down, requiring the 3rd engine stand: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106849

I think the cranks every three races came from the EARLY CP racing back when the 240 was whipping *** on the 911. The first 240 cranks out of the factory didn't have as many counterweights and they'd vibrate apart, so they were replaced every three races.

I put some up on ebay and they didn't sell. I don't remember what they cost, but I bought them and then bought adapters from MM and they came with the adapters. I'm thinking $20 shipped sounds fair to me. PM me if you want them. Also let me know if I'm overpriced, cause I honestly don't know. It's the 280ZX Turbo nut, so I think that's why you got the wrong thing.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860