JMortensen

That is a Eaton Gov-Lock, or as we used to call it at Randy's R&P, the Gov-Bomb. It uses a centrifugal weight to open the diff above 25 or 30 mph. At lower speeds it acts like an LSD. The problem is when you start burning out and get over the centrifugal release mph, then slow down. It tries to engage the clutches all at once and ends up looking like a grenade went off. Commonly available on GM trucks in the 8.5 10 bolt, not sure if they use it on the smaller 7.5 10 bolt. I think back when they put the 12 bolts in they used the other Eaton which also had problems back in the day. The new Eaton non-Gov Lock is actually really good. That one you have is not.

I like Juan and I emailed him a couple times before ordering the brake kits from him. I do wish he would have just told me/us what was going on instead of just leaving everyone hanging at the end there. Fine, you're going out of business. That's understandable, happens quite a bit. I would even be fine knowing that the rear kit that I bought wasn't going to work as a straight bolt on, but might be able to be modified to function correctly. But to ignore everyones' emails and not make any sort of public announcement about it was just... I don't know juvenile or weasely or something. I can't really put my finger on it but it just didn't sit right with me.

VERY nice install. The carrier changed in the mid 70's and they went to the larger diameter ring gear. You can probably order that same Power Brute diff for the front of a mid 80's Nissan truck (720?), or even just a later model Z and then you won't have to make the spacer, but it looks like you did a hell of a job on the spacer.

Navy I don't think you need to swap the suspension to make it live behind 450hp. You'll need to upgrade the drivetrain stuff, upgrade to CV's and possibly the http://www.modern-motorsports.com billet stub axles. I don't think the control arms are going to fold under the hp. Plenty of other guys pushing that much power and not having suspension failures. Sorry about the misinfo about the Z31/240SX connection BTW. I thought they were the same, evidently I was wrong.

There is a guy here called Maichor who adapted 240SX rear suspension which I believe is the same as the Z31 suspension. If you search this forum for Maichor you should find answers to all your questions.

This is wrong, right John and Katman? I thought 1.5 x .120 wall was the requirement. I suppose it might depend on what class you're in. What class did you look for Austin? This is important to me because I have arranged to get a hoop bent in 2 weeks, and we're going to do 1.5 x .120. Also I asked him about the wall thickness thing, and he said that sometimes tube comes up .118 when it's listed as .120. His supplier for materials errs on the thick side just for this reason, so his stuff is commonly between .120 and .122.

I don't know. I made those marks when I had the shorter control arms and was playing around with it all the time. IIRC that was -1.7 at that time. I think now it's about -3º. I need to make new marks.

It was a JOKE. He posted stuff about a cage and floor pans in the L6 forum. Aside from that, driving on the freeway at 130+ is probably not something to be bragging about on the internet, you're basically saying "Attention all cops, my son has an orange Z with a black cowl induction hood (see my gallery for pics) and likes to go 130+ on the freeway". It's really not the best idea anyway. You might want to try a track. Your son might live longer and/or stay out of jail.

Well that sucks. At least the shop is going to take responsibility, but you're right, it will be a hassle.

I suppose it depends if you're running bias ply or radials. Radials need a heck of a lot more camber. FWIW, when I installed mine I was able to get over -2º with the adjustment on the plate. Then I made adjustable control arms, screwed them out and now I'm over -3.5 with them all the way in. Just a guess, but it sounds like maybe you installed them too far outwards.

I like your zinc plated cap screws, in fact I might have to buy some. My black oxide ones rusted about 3 days after I put them in. Not really a problem, but I was kinda pissed about the way it looks.

Ain't that the truth!!! LOL You know if you mounted them on top you could actually use the caster adjustment, although that 3/8" isn't going to amount to a whole bunch anyway.

Austin your roll bar basically turned out like John Coffey's (see http://www.betamotorsports.com) with the addition of the side bars. But the way the kit is intended to be installed is not so good IMO. I doubt that most people re-engineer the thing. Most of the pictures that I've seen of S&W cages have the bars installed just as the instructions dictate. Maybe you should send S&W some pics and suggest they rewrite the instructions...

Yeah the rear isn't usually a problem for me either. It's the front. Especially hard with a low hanging airdam. I like the idea of putting the holes in front and back.

I know the typical coilover backspace is 5", so they probably will fit. Only one way to find out...

Both of the last two suggestions are correct. Once the pulley gets loose it wobbles on the end of the crank, which makes the fit looser and then it won't stay tight. Usually also breaks the slot that the woodruff key sits in. Some loctite in there might make it last a while. One engine I took apart had loctite in there and was running fine for a long time by all appearances. I actually scrapped a motor because of this. I didn't notice the pulley was loose until way too late, and then when I got it off the end of the crank was just screwed. The rest of the motor was fine, but I ended up building another shortblock. On my engine the rubber in the pulley had come apart. Never figured out if the rubber went because the pulley came loose or the pulley came loose because the rubber went.

Uh, stupid question Drax. If the car is too low to get a jack under, how do you get it jacked up to put the stands in??? The stands look like a GREAT idea, just not sure how you would jack the car up to use them.

You don't think NOT sliding would be the safer course when driving a delivery van on a mountain road??? Come on, now...

Yeah, that's what I call a 4 wheel drift too. What these guys are doing is a powerslide. Tire companies are loving it, that's for sure.

Sure we have disagreements and there are a few whose canned response to any situation can be predicted every time. I still felt the discussions were worth it and I can say that some points that have been brought up (sometimes by those I disagree with most) have led me to do searches on the internet and learn more about whatever subject we were discussing at the time. Other times the argument quickly degenerated into name calling and was totally pointless. I think the topics should be allowed, but the moderation level should be upped a bit. It's not like you aren't following all these threads anyway, right John? Bottom line for me is this is the internet and if you don't want to read it you don't have to read it. Nobody should get in such a tissy that the whole subject matter has to be shut down. But that's just my opinion.

Why would you put a roll cage on your L6? And it's an OIL PAN, not a "floor pan".

That Lotus isn't going to cost $1700 to finish, that's for sure. I'd buy and park it like the others suggest or forget about it all together. Last story I heard about a guy getting the "deal of a lifetime" on a Lotus Espirit involved a blow through Weber turbo setup, lots and lots of money, and a fire that burned the car to the ground.

You could search my thread for shimming my LSD, then search MikeC's thread for installing the other one and see that they're identical. You guys are using PG as an abbreviation which might not be the best thing. Phantom Grip has usually had that abbreviation on hybridz. Precision Gear sells the Power Brute, which is what you are talking about. Just saying in case anyone wants to search if they look up "PG" they'll get a bunch of threads about what a piece of crap it is.