JMortensen

I wouldn't get too crazy with changing the cam timing, on a shaved head with a cam you can run the valves into the pistons pretty easily. If you wanted to try and screw with the valve timing, try using the other holes in the cam gear instead of rotating the cam a full tooth and putting the chain back on. Those other cam gear holes advance and retard the cam 4º. That doesn't make any sense. Even if the ignition timing weren't the problem' date=' turning it 180º off should make a difference (should make it run horrible). If it was the problem, turning it 180º should also make a difference (make it run a lot better). Makes me think that the firing order is screwed up. This really doesn't sound like a coil issue to me. Shaving the head does retard the cam timing a couple degrees, which usually gives a little more top end power. Unless it was shaved a whole bunch I don't think that's your issue. I'm now CONVINCED that your ignition timing is screwy. Something, either the firing order or the distributor shaft or both is not right. What you said above just doesn't make any sense at all. Sorry, can't help with the 11:20 bit. Never did it that way, just put the thing to TDC and pointed the rotor at the #1 terminal on the cap.

$50 was a guess at the price of an 8' stick of tube, and you can cut a couple hundred spacers from one stick. I bought mine from Mat73GNZ. I think I paid him $20. For me it was worth it because I have other projects going on and I didn't want to buy a stick and have to sell a bunch of spacers to get my money back out of it. I believe he used a stick of stainless tubing, but it doesn't need to be stainless. Could be any steel really. Not likely to rust in there.

The bolt spacers don't have to be a press fit, because the ring gear isn't a press fit. They basically take up the slack, and making them shorter is definitely better than making them too long. You're right, they are not necessary, just a bit of a safeguard. Since the ring gear on these diffs is NOT a press fit onto the carrier, I think it is more likely that the ring gear could try to rotate on the carrier. If for some odd reason the ring gear did try to spin, if there was no slack in the hole that would make it less likely that the bolt would snap off. I put them in my LSD and I know some others did not. My point was that you can get 12mm OD 10mm ID tube. One tube probably costs $50, then you can just cut and deburr them, and then you don't have to turn them on a lathe. There are several different clutch packs on the Nissan units. It would still be interesting to see what these have in them. In this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92629&page=1&pp=25 I listed out the parts Nissan says should be in the 45 lb and 75 lb breakaway LSDs. Then I list the weird stack I had in mine, and Mat73GNZ gave us the rundown on his. Neither of ours matched the parts listed originally.

When I did mine it wasn't necessary to redo the backlash (it was within .001"), so all I had to do was remover the carrier, swap the ring gear onto the new LSD with bolt spacers, and put it back in. With a brand new one you'd have to press the bearings onto the carrier as well. So if I were a shop and I were getting the whole diff out of the car I'd guess a fair charge would be 2 hours labor. If the backlash was off and you needed to adjust it, then the cost would go up because the person doing the work would have to locate shims, etc, but it seems that lots of guys have done it and b/l was OK afterwards. Leith, you might want to search "ring gear bolt spacer" and maybe set something up for that. We previously figured out how to do the ring gear bolt spacers real cheap using some 12mm OD 10mm ID tubing. You could very easily add that to your kit, you'll probably have people wanting the spacers when you install the 12mm carrier into a 10mm ring gear. Also on a side note I'd be curious to see what is inside one of these Power Brutes, since there are apparently several different Nissan LSDs, some with more clutches and some with less.

It's cool, I just saw the same post 3 times already. It's a good deal, BTW.

Stop posting. One is enough and it should be in the DRIVETRAIN forum.

It's the Nissan LSD.

Pinging and detonation: http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%20Tips/detonation_and_preignition.htm

I'd go with the larger of those two grinds. I ran a .490/280 with SU's and 2.5 inch exhaust and it worked really well.

So you're saying that nothing is wrong, that the timing is perfect, and you're just wondering why the engine sucks so bad? Tough to answer that one since it defies logic. If the teacher and the student did manage to screw up the cam timing or the ignition timing that would definitely explain the situation. Since you've ruled out timing problems it looks like they're stuck with a crappy engine. Just triple check the timing. It's obvious that something is wrong, right? So your job if you want to help your friend is to figure out what it is. If you truly believe that the engine is assembled correctly you wouldn't be posting here, would you? I think based on your description you can pretty much rule out the carb. Sounds to me like maybe the distributor shaft is in a tooth off. That is a very easy mistake to make. Done it myself. Try going full advance or full retard with the distributor. If either helps at all, then pull the oil pump and turn the distributor drive in the direction to make the timing better. Takes a while, but that might be your answer. You can have the timing pretty far off and the car will still run, but only at high rpms just like you're describing.

Adjusting the carb on an SU means doing an idle mixture adjustment. Once you start opening the throttle and the needle starts rising out of the nozzle, your idle adjustment doesn't mean squat anymore. The cam is a serious limiting factor for power anyway. I'd suggest you get a bigger cam regardless of the pinging issue. They aren't expensive, and setting the lash pads isn't very hard, just time consuming.

Problem there is you need different shocks for the heavier springs, and they would suck on the street. [bragging]I ran 200/250 with several different clubs and was always in the top 10% at track days including 12th overall out of 150 at a POC event (1st in the "not a Porsche" class) and 2nd overall at a local club event, and usually in the top 20% at autox including 2nd out of 200 at a NASA event.[/bragging] Definitely not top of the field every time out, but certainly not mid pack as John would have you believe, although I think he hangs out with some faster drivers than I do. My car was definitely not a fast FP car, that's for sure. It's hard to be fast in a Prepared class with a 2350 lb Z that runs on pump gas. Instead of harping on how slow I was in my class, I just concentrated on the overall standings. One thing is true, I was always a bridesmaid and never a bride; never took FTD. 2nd twice but never fastest. I did go the extra mile though and I hauled my slicks to the track and changed the tires right there. I also took the suspension farther than most with heims jointed front control arms and TC rods and camber plates.

Put a shifter in it and try for 5th.

How much hp are we talking about here? If you don't want grabby, use a stock disk and a heavy pressure plate. My 225mm ACT with stock disk been holding up to my ~240 whp just fine. If you're really going to be pushing a lot of power the 240mm Nissan Comp has a lot of clamping force. Use that with a stock 240 mm disk, or maybe the heavier of the ACT pps and their kevlar disk. I can't remember what that setup is supposed to hold, but it should be quite a bit. I understand where you're coming from. The puck clutches are a bit brutal on the car and the driver for street use.

Isn't he thinking turbo? Would make sense with the 8:1 compression. Badintentionz, your post seems confused to me. I suggest you read up on these engines. Maybe buy the How to Modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine book, or do some really thorough searching on this site. Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860 and all of the other stickies in the turbo forum.

Uhh, so basically this program turns our kids into sheltered little hippies. Don't be a mean spirited SOB little prick or don't be a bully is one line of reasoning I could get behind, but don't laugh at me just begs to be laughed at. In the real world people laugh at each other all the time. The answer to getting dissed is to get a little thicker skin, not stop anyone from criticizing you. Imagine the kicked puppy dog look these kids will have on their faces after their first day in college when they meet some kids who didn't get sensitivity training. Maybe they'll form the "sensitive pony tail" club in college and try to hide themselves away from all the normal people.

Having a wife, father, and father-in-law who are all type I diabetics I understand how easy it is for serious problems to occur. Deepest sympathy Larry.

Why do you get all the bizarre problems Bastaad? Bad karma or something? No pad should have problems with a single 60-0 stop. I think changing out pads is barking up the wrong tree. Besides, if the pads were gassing, the pedal would have been normal, but the car wouldn't have slowed down at all. The master is a possibility, but I have yet to see a bad master that was fooled by the light steady pressure test. If you put light steady pressure on the brake pedal and it doesn't sink to the floor, then its probably not the master IME. If you somehow managed to boil the fluid, that leaves 2 possibilities. Either the brake fluid you used was contaminated somehow, or somehow even after you bled the system you still had a lot of moisture in the lines. I still think that either of these scenarios is really unusual. You should check for a stuck caliper. Just jack the front end up and spin the wheels. Same with the rear. Rear should have very light drag from the shoes, front should spin freely. If not, something is hanging up, and if something is dragging while you're driving that might be putting heat into the brakes causing your problem. Maybe your car needs an exorcism...

The early "monkey motion" 4 speeds in 70 and 71 cars were the only ones that were longer. Everything after mid 71 is the same length.

I was just looking at your previous drawings and I wanted to ask about something Rob. I see you haven't lined up the top bar with the end bars. In your previous pictures you show aluminum (?) bushings locating this whole subframe in the car where the original mustache bar bolted in, then that top bar in your new subframe actually rides below the frame, so presumably there would be a gap all the way across the frame rail of 10 or 12 mm or so. Wouldn't it be better if that top bar sat right on the frame rail? I know it would still be rigidly mounted either way, but it seems that in the drawing all the stress ends up at that 1st weld between the original mustache bar mounting points and the horizontal bar that goes all the way across the top. If you raised that horizontal bar then that whole frame rail will share the load.

N42 or P90. P90 will have to be milled and the cam towers shimmed. Not expensive, but it has to be done. The N42 can just be used as is. I'd go P90 personally because I think the chamber is a better design.

Let me restate :/. For a car that is going to run pump gas and ~10:1 compression, the open chambered E88 is not the easiest head to use. If you're going to use custom pistons and weld on the chambers, it doesn't matter what L head you use, because you can modify the combustion chamber to any size/shape you want and the heads are all fairly similar as a starting point. But when the compression goal is ~10:1, running an N42 or milling a P90 and running the flat tops is the easiest way to get there.

I haven't really seen a "reality" show that I've really liked, so maybe I'm a bad judge, but this Pinks thing really wallowed in lameness. WTF is up with Speed lately?!?! They really have some crappy programming on now. Only day to watch is Sunday anymore...

You boiled the fluid somehow. Fade is when the pedal is rock hard but the car doesn't slow down. BTW, now that you boiled the fluid you NEED to bleed the brakes again ASAP. One stop from 60, no matter how hard, isn't going to boil the fluid. I can't remember your other post too well. Didn't you think you had a stuck caliper or something? You need to put quite a bit of heat into the brakes to boil the fluid. Can't say that I ever did that on the street, but it's happened a bunch of times on the track.