JMortensen

I think BrandonsZ is right. On a ZX the ignition module is right on the side of the distributor. Usually it goes like this: drive around for a while, suddenly no spark and the car just dies. Let it sit for an hour or so, fires right back up and drives again until it gets hot, dies again. Have you tried just waiting and then firing it again without cleaning the plugs?

I think my RX7 studs are 3". Just out of curiosity, why would a 3" stud work but not a 2.5"? Are you running a 2" wide spacer?

From zhome.com: 12.9/25.4= .507" Sorry for the faulty memory...

If the knurl size is the same as stock (around .603" IIRC) then there are 2 good options. There is a Camaro stud with a 12 x 1.5mm stud that has a .607" knurl. That should go right in. Found it at Summit Racing. I believe it is the 2nd gen RX7 that also has a very similar knurl and 12 x 1.5mm stud. That's what I'm using now, it might very well be EXACTLY the same as the Camaro stud. No need to drill for either one. EDIT--Must be .503, not .603. I think this the part number: ARP-100-7708. Obviously better verify the knurl diameter...

It looks like your header is coated... if it is coated then don't worry about the heat. Actually, you don't really need to worry about the heat anyway if you have insulators between the manifold and the carbs. If you really want to worry about it, I'd suggest you make a heat shield rather than wrap the headers. Wrapping headers makes them rust very quickly, and I had a problem with overheating after I wrapped mine (although that seems to have been an isolated incident). The big hole looks like one of those heat riser tubes should plug onto it. I don't recall any SU's using a heat riser tube, so why it's there I don't know. So you can pretty much just bolt it on and go. I don't see any linkage to connect from the firewall to the carbs in your pics, but I'm assuming you have the linkage... Now would be a perfect time to add an O2 sensor to the collector in your header. That really helps with tuning. Just get a one wire O2 and measure the voltage with a voltmeter, or you can get a whole gauge and install it permanently in the car somewhere.

$300 was for both doors. Next time I'm going JC Whitney or McMaster Carr.

1. I'd wager a guess that the N9000 plates are the ones with the grooves and the N3210 is the flat one like Mat had in his diff. That parts list is totally different than what I got from Nissan when I asked them so I can't say for sure, but your list does match what was in my diff. The grooved discs are going to hold oil, which should help them run cooler and chatter less. 2. Same as 1. 3. Yes. 4 and 5. Using the spacers doesn't seem like a good idea to me, because all the limiting of the slip is done by one disc and 2 plates. If you spread that work (and heat) through more plates they should last longer. As it is people are getting many years out of the 300ZX LSD without a problem, so maybe this is making a bigger deal out of it than it needs to be, but theoretically more discs = better. 6. First things first. Measure the breakaway as the diff sits now. VERIFY that the parts match the parts list. My diff matches your parts list, but Mat's doesn't match ANY parts list I've seen so far, and Gordon shared his experience of pulling open a Nissan Comp diff and having it be the same as mine inside. What you need to do is add thickness to the clutch stack to increase the breakaway, so yes, adding thicker discs will increase the breakaway. Notice though that I got from ~10 to 45 lbs by adding .020" shim, and when I added the 5th shim it jumped from 45 to 100. So adding the .1mm thicker disc is the same as adding the last .004 shim. If you are actually at 45 lbs breakaway and you remove the standard thickness disc and replace it with the thicker one, you should end up ~100 lbs. The other thing you can do is put a .002" shim on one side or the other. 7. The ultimate end goal is to not spin a tire. More clutch stack thickness = more lockup. More spring tension on the stack means more BREAKAWAY, but not more lockup. So by making the stack thicker you'll be less likely to spin a tire. By adding more springs and not increasing the stack thickness, you might just cause more understeer by making the diff more resistant to slippage, but not really add any lockup at all.

Well I guess I don't have them anymore. I checked but couldn't find them on my hard drive.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92629&highlight=shimming+r200 Try the search function. Looked up "shimming r200" and found my old post. If you need the pictures PM me, but there should be enough there without the pics to let you know what needs to be done.

The problem with negative deck height is that it effectively makes quench 0. So if you have a high compression engine that needs (or would benefit from if you like that better) quench, you won't have any. If the compression is 9.5 or lower, you'd never notice. Any stock L series has a positive deck height from the factory AFAIK. It is a positive height of .003" or something like that, I can't recall off the top of my head. The pistons don't hit the head due to the thickness of the head gasket. Stock is something like .050" and you can get the HKS or Fail-Prone 1mm (.040").

You're not going to have detonation problems on a 8.8:1 engine. Take it from a guy who ran a L28 dished/E31 combo for years. I could run at the track in 105* weather on 87 octane.

Yeah, try the adjustment between the pedal and the back of the master. You want about 1/8" to 3/16" free play. If that doesn't fix it try replacing the clutch master and slave. When I put my ACT pp on my slave lasted 3 days. Could be yours was ready to go, then you added the heavier plate and blew it out. I'm thinking you should be able to make it work without the adjustable slave. I went that route too, but out of preference not necessity.

An air chisel will pop most of it off if it is hardened, after popping most of it off with the chisel I've been using a wire wheel to clean up the rest. Works pretty well.

The How to Modify book says leave the slinger out. Get the How to Rebuild or How to Modify book. At the very least get a Haynes manual and at least you'll have all the torque values.

Option 2. Didn't your gasket come with the thermostat housing part? They normally do and that tells you which way it should go. If you have it backwards the thermostat housing part hangs off the back of the head.

Just FWIW, I used 280 OEM seals on my 240. They split after about a year, and the door skin started to split from the front of the door because I had to slam the doors. I kept thinking they would break in, but they never did. On top of the hassle, they were ~$300 for both doors...

His '76 already has EI. The Pertronix unit is meant to replace points in an older distributor. Forget about Pertronix, if you want to upgrade the ignition consider an MSD and a hotter coil. Your "laggy" problem sounds like it could be cam timing. If you get a service manual it will tell you about the 1, 2, and 3 settings on the cam gear and what they do and how to check it. There's no way an Altima weighs 4250. Not unless it has about 1200 lbs of crap in it. I'm guessing you looked at the door tag and saw the GVWR. That is GROSS vehicle weight rating, meaning the car with 5 passengers and luggage. You want CURB weight to see what the thing actually weighs. According to this http://www.autobytel.com/content/research/vir/index.cfm/vehicle_number_int/1014424/Action/StandardFeatures it should weigh about 3050 lbs.

Try a little toe in out back. I'm running 3/16" total. It should help control the sketchy feeling out back and may make the difference for you. At some point there is a balance between more negative camber makes you turn faster and less enables you to brake harder, but I'm with John on this one and I don't think 3º of camber should be affecting the car terribly. Caster makes a HUGE difference as Terry said. I don't run as much as he is, I've been running about 5º with -3º camber in front.

PUSHER-- You keep asking the same question. If you get an LSD made for the 240SX that originally came with VLSD, then you need to change the halfshafts (and probably modify them to work). If you get an LSD made for the 240SX that originally had an open diff, then the R200 Z halfshafts will plug right into the carrier. From the other thread:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860

The original problem was the tire hitting the strut. Camber plates won't help that situation because when you adjust for more negative camber the axle and the strut housing move together. The plates will lean the tire in giving greater clearance IF you dial in more negative camber, and then you have to deal with the tire wear issues and all that if it's a street car.

Hey, the last thing I wanted to do was "rape" you... disagreeing is quite a different thing than rape. Someone a little sensitive??? Put in context: I think anyone who is a night owl has seen cops waiting around outside of bars looking for drunk drivers. You can legitimately say that they are protecting the public by making sure that unsafe drivers aren't out on the road. But you can say the same about the cop hiding behind the tree where the speed limit goes from 55 to 45 to 35 in 100 feet. There are obviously people who drink to the point that they are incapable of driving in a safe manner and should not be behind the wheel. Then there are some who are pulled over for doing 39 in a 35 and are given a DUI. If it weren't 2:30 in the morning she NEVER would have been pulled over in the first place. That is the issue. I understand the idea that the law is easier to enforce if there is a hard fast rule, like .08 = DUI. I just don't agree with it because I feel the limit is somewhat arbitrary. It's like the cell phone thing. I used to say that it should be illegal for people to drive and talk on the cell phone (and I also used to be a zero tolerance guy when it came to DUI's too). Then I realized that it is not the cell phone that is the problem, but the idiot driving the car. Why should tens of millions of people who are capable of driving while talking on the cell phone have to pay the price for the few idiots who can't. The test should be HOW THEY'RE DRIVING, not what they're doing. So for me people should be punished REGARDLESS OF THEIR BAC for HOW BADLY they are driving, and not punished REGARDLESS OF THEIR DRIVING for having a high BAC. Again, I'd give a swerving idiot with a .01 a DUI in a heartbeat. EDIT--One more thing I just realized is that we were at a brewery so we were drinking pints. I don't think I had factored that in before.

Hahaha! Good one!

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