JMortensen

My '80 parts car with T-tops came with a 3.90.

About the only autox damage I've seen is a nasty cone hickey...

Well the rear Comp LSD for a R180 fits in a front 180 out of a truck, because the 180 in the front of a truck is the same diff, just mounted backwards in the truck. Even if the R200 in the truck is a short nose, I'm sure just like the 240SX short nose stuff crosses over (except VLSD, right?). Maybe get a part number from the CalMini guys and cross reference with Nissan. If it's a Nissan part should have a Nissan part number, right?

I remember Safety-Kleen from my wrenching days. Wonder if that's the same outfit. They'd come by in their yellow and black truck every 6 months and change the filter and the solvent. That's kind of why I was asking. I was wondering if I could get away with NOT doing that.

Dumb question then. What do you do when it gets dirty? Clean the filter and dump the solvent? Doesn't seem like a good idea, since the solvent is enviro friendly, but the grease, oil, etc isn't. If you do use kerosene or diesel can you recycle it at a used oil facility? It is a petroleum product...

Anyone have a solvent tank at home? What solvent do you use? Recycling? I realize I could use diesel fuel or kerosene, but I think I'd prefer to use something green if possible. Looking at the 20 and 40 gallon Harbor Freight units, just got too damn many greasy parts around the garage...

That shouldn't be an issue with CV's like it would be with U joints. You should see the Porsche CV's in the back of a 911. The transaxle output shafts have got to be at least 3" forward of the stub axles, and they don't go bad very often. TimZ, I love that cradle idea. I know Terry and I have discussed the rear suspension before and we both thought that someone in Japan was smoking crack when they decided to hang the rear on those 2 uprights. Your setup would provide a lot more support for the transverse link. Very nice. If you added a piece of angle between the uprights on the top you might get even more stiffness out of it at very minimal cost. It would keep those uprights from trying to lean over in turns. I've heard of a couple ITS cars tearing the uprights out of the frame at the top where they bolt up.

$2500 to paint with no interior in the car and the engine compartment already painted black. All he had to do was the bodywork, pull the windows, and spray it. Took 2 months and looks like utter crap now, ~5 years later. He didn't strip it down like he said he would, rust poking through, etc. "Good" body shops gave me estimates of $7 or $8K. After getting really into the unibody I understand why a good paint job is so expensive. Lots of work to actually get all the rust out. Lots. Bottom line for me is I'll never get an old car painted at a shop again. I might have them spray the paint on for me, but if you want all the rust out, you've got two options. Option A involves a good body shop, some vaseline and a donut pillow, Option B involves buying some tools and spending a lot of time in the garage.

Just for kicks I tried to search and didn't come up with anything, so here's a short answer. I don't know about the R200 in the front of the trucks, but the earlier trucks (mid 80's) have R180's in them and they have really low ratios like 4.11 and 4.36. None are LSD AFAIK.

Friction modifier doesn't increase friction. It keeps clutches from chattering in a limited slip, so I would actually guess it reduces friction. Use regular gear oil with any LSD additive (friction modifier) or you can get some really expensive gear oil. Best stuff I've used is SWEPCO 201, doesn't require additive, and I use it straight in the diff and cut it 50/50 with ATF for quicker shifts in the transmission. Works great, about $40/gallon, you can find it in European parts stores and Porsche shops.

ATE Super Blue

fo shizzle my dizzle...

That's why I paid you for them. Bolt spacers are a good idea. But there are other setups, like ring gear spacers commonly used on American diffs where you put a spacer between the ring gear and the carrier and install longer bolts. These don't have any pilot interference fit, and the spacers aren't super tight, AND you are using a longer bolt. Oh, did I mention that you only use them when you go to a LOWER gear ratio (more torque multiplication). I wouldn't use one, but lots of guys do. I did have some customers who had the ring gear bolts shear in this type of setup, and I think its a really bad idea. What we do with the R200 is not too big a risk though. The only strength we lose is from the 12mm bolt to the 10mm bolt. How many 10mm bolt guys have complained about the bolts shearing??? I've never heard of it...

Just wrap the yoke with a rag and hold onto it with your hand.

Long ones go in back, tighter wound part on top.

Well I guess I stand corrected. I started with a 70, added a 80 ZX rear end, and it bolted right on. Then I swapped to the Z31 Turbo R200, and I swapped the flanges. Then I got a 200SX diff, and it has the same flange as the 80 ZX, and both bolt right up to my 70. I guess 75 is an oddball from the sounds of it. The pinion flange is swappable, but they are usually red loctited and the torque is in the ~150 ft/lbs range, so you'll need an impact or maybe someone sitting in the car standing on the brakes to get the flange loose. Sometimes the flanges are rusted on the splines, the last one I pulled off required a small pulley puller. Red loctite it and torque the crap out of it. Manual says 137-159 ft lbs, in stages of 50 lbs, and spin the pinion in between torques.

Were the ones you made perfect Mat? I didn't notice when I installed them, but 2126 is right. They don't have to be perfectly fit to the carrier. In fact, they don't have to be terribly tight either. If there is a couple thou slack in there it doesn't matter. 10mm bolts in a 10mm carrier have a little slop too. What holds the ring gear is the interference fit with the "pilot" and the ring gear bolts' clamping force. The pilot is the surfaced area of the carrier that the ring gear presses onto. FWIW, on my R200 this was more of a slip fit than a press fit but on everything else I've worked on you had to beat the ring gear onto the pilot with a dead blow hammer.

Change your screenname.

If you're doing Illuminas the part number is a BZ3099. I don't know the year for sure, but since no one seems to be responding with the year you can probably backtrack it and figure it out.

I wouldn't paint them then try to weld, because you want the welding surface clean. I would weld them on, drill a hole or two, and use one of these http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=10966&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=rust+gun to spray your POR15 or whatever inside the rail AFTER you weld. That's my plan on a lot of my rusty areas.

If the head isn't shaved then you should have 8.5:1 compression. You can crank in a lot more timing before octane becomes an issue. You should be shooting for somewhere in the mid 30's total advance. If you have a ZX distributor that equates to 18-20 degrees advance at idle, with no vacuum advance. I think Drax is right, a cam would help. I noticed a big improvement when I was running an L28/E31 combo and went to a bigger cam. It still never wanted to smack the rev limiter at 6800 very hard, but it could at least get there. Your dyno graph looks like there would be no point in revving too much farther than 5500 or so. All the fun is up in the higher rpms...

It's a rental. Here's my flyer: Soliciting: 1. To seek to obtain by persuasion, entreaty, or formal application: a candidate who solicited votes among the factory workers. 2. To petition persistently; importune: solicited the neighbors for donations. 3. To entice or incite to evil or illegal action. 4. To approach or accost (a person) with an offer of sexual services. If you have received this paper, you are too dumb to know you are a solicitor. In the hopes of preventing my neighbors from suffering at your stupidity, I have made this flyer for you. When someone has a No Solicitor sign on their door, this is an indication that they wish to not be bothered. There might be many reasons for this: They might have a baby that they do not want to disturb. They might be taking care of an ill person. They might run a business from their home. They might have a vicious dog. Most likely, they just don’t want you hawking your crap on their doorstep. The bottom line is, you are not welcome to ring the doorbell or knock on the door of a house displaying a No Soliciting sign. Please do not ignore the No Soliciting sign. It is discourteous, and infuriating. When you disregard my No Soliciting sign, you not only ensure that I will never buy anything from the company you represent, but you also ensure that I will tell all of my friends how dumb you and the company or religion that you represent are, and that if you cannot understand the meaning of the No Soliciting sign then obviously you are not the appropriate person to save my soul, sell me dry car wash, renew my magazine subscriptions, etc. Please respect my wishes and the wishes of my neighbors. Have a nice day.

The flanges are the same until you get to the 300ZX R200s. What you have should bolt right up.

I think I've come up with an idea. I'm going to print up a couple of flyers that explain what soliciting is, and maybe say something along the lines of "If you're so f'in stupid that you don't know what soliciting is, the last thing I want to do is buy your product, give to your charity, follow your God, get free estimates, etc. Now F off!" When they ring I'll open the door, hand them the paper, then slam the door on them. Of course by that time it's already too late, but at least I can get a little insult in. Then some goddamn bleeding heart bastard will sue me for hurting his feelings or something.

Believe it or not, my sign worked until yesterday! Unfortunately it's effect seems to have worn off entirely. I had a Social Worker come to the door yesterday, apparently he wasn't selling anything or looking for donations. Then I had 2 guys offering to do a free window replacement estimate today. I asked them why they didn't read the sign, and they said that their estimate was free. So then I said "So, do I need a 'No free window replacement estimates' sign as well to keep you f'ers from knocking on my door?" They just turned around and walked away. Damn this f'in place!!!