JMortensen

As I said before, the right wants LESS government. My beef is that if I said that totalitarianism was on the left and anarchy is on the right as you suggest, you would have come back arguing against me that the extreme left is communism, and the extreme right is totalitarianism, which is still at the end of the day wrong. Doesn't matter if you're talking economics or social issues, it's wrong IME and not just IME. Here's my original statement again. If it would please you I would agree to amend it to: Somehow I just don't think that's going to satisfy you. Maybe I'm wrong. Anarchy on the right, servitude on the left. That's the way the spectrum goes, and you aren't going to convince me that anarchy and totalitarianism have much in common.

I realize that you want to misconstrue what I'm saying, but that's not it. I'm not comparing the social and economic on the same chart. I'm saying that ANY chart that shows the right ending in totalitarianism is wrong. Because it is the right that wants less govt involvement. I sure hope these charts aren't teaching aids... I'd hate to think your students are being taught that Mussolini and Bush are of the same mold.

I still think we should fire a couple million govt employees but that won't get anyone elected, so it will never happen. Heavy, if you read that article it points out how the first chart is outdated and doesn't make sense, and why the second is more appropriate. And I agree with it's assessment. The old chart is just BS. So you can choose to agree with me or not, but I do not see the extreme right linked with totalitarianism. I see the extreme left linked with totalitarianism. Stalin, Hitler, Mussolini, etc, were all very similar in my book. Their motives, maybe not, but the end results... From the article: More taxes and more government intervention pretty much go hand in hand unless W is in office. Govt involvement in our lives seems a much purer yardstick then "Nurture is the Primary Arbiter of Advancement" vs "Nature is the Primary Arbiter of Advancement". I know of nobody who considers themselves an arch-conservative that wants a totalitarian regime to take over here in the US. Not a one. I know LOTS of them who want LESS govt involvement. Maybe you can point me to a right wing totalitarian. The funny part is you see these socialist lefties running around with Anarchy symbols on their hats or cars or whatever. What a joke!!!

Heavy asked for a link showing anarchy on the right and communism or totalitarianism on the left. Here you go this one shows both your version and mine: http://academic.bellevue.edu/~jpatton/direction.html This idea came to me from my dad who is a lawyer from the time I was very young, and it was reinforced by my first real history teacher in college, who had a phD in history. But it has been reinforced many other times along the way. On the web seems to be reinforced by the libertarian party, and it also seems to spring from the Federalist and Anti-Federalist papers according to this website. My dad continually reads Constitutional law and the Federalist and Anti-Federalist papers (even though that was never his specialty) and I'm sure he's read the related books at least 10 times each. Looks to me like the terms right and left wing come historically from the French Revolution, but they have since been perverted and adapted into a bunch of different theories. Bottom line for me is I don't understand how the idea of wanting LESS govt eventually turns into totalitarianism. That don't make no sense. Would be a good way to scare people into fearing the right...

Jap imports have solid lifter P90a IIRC

The N42 is better if you're going to port it. Out of the box the N47 flows just fine. The problem with his motor in your case is that it is very likely to ping on CA 91 octane gas, and I don't think you could pass smog because the increased compression is going to drive your NOx up.

Depends on who you ask I guess. I tried to back up my statement with some political websites and found both arguments supported. Some think that it is a circle with communism and totalitarianism coming together as a bridge between the extreme right and left, and some view it as a line with totalitarianism and communism on one end and anarchy on the other. Some also use 2 axes and have anarchy and totalitarianism at the ends of one axis and liberal and conservative at the ends of the other. I was always taught the line theory, and it just plain makes more sense to me. Pure liberals want more taxes and more redistribution, pure conservatives want less government and more self-regulation. That Vonnegut thing is unfortunately the truest measure of left and right today...

My opinion is that 200 WHEEL hp is going to be tough to come by and remain smog legal. I think realistically you're going to need a cam to get there which is going to make your HC's worse, and the extra compression might make it really tough to pass the NOx part of the emissions. I don't think it's that hard to build a 200 wheel hp FI NA L28, I just think the smog legal bit is going to be really tough. 200 bhp is no problem, I think Pete S is pretty close. He's putting 164 to the wheels with a flat top L28 and N47 head, and I believe no other mods.

Stock brakes will do this job just fine. They just won't do it over and over and over in quick succession. You're going to go SLOWER with bigger brakes, that is a fact. I wouldn't waste my money if you were doing this just for a drag specific race car that doesn't see lots of canyon road bombing or road racing.

This is my #1 issue with the current administration. Let me be the fourth non-democrat to answer this question that has been posed to democrats. In pure form the right end of the polital spectrum ends in anarchy, and the left end winds up as communism or socialism. My take on democrats is that they believe it is government's responsibility to provide services for the people, and the way they do that is by taxing the people. Since rich people put a hell of a lot more dollars into the govt coffers, and these dollars are used to provide services to EVERYONE, this is a way of redistributing wealth. The higher the taxes the greater the theoretical benefit to the poor or disadvantaged. The democratic ideal is GREAT. No homeless, no hungry, no jobless, no poor. The reality is not so good IMO.

Sorry if this is a total waste of time, I don't even have a turbo, but I've been reading a lot of the turbo posts lately, just because I'm bored. I keep looking at the turbo manifold and thinking that it looks pretty crappy for flow. Has anyone taken an NA exhaust manifold and made a turbo header out of it? I know you have the manifold with the two outlets, seems to me you could then run 2 mandrel bends towards the front, then maybe 2 more up to a flange and bolt the turbo where it would be easy to access. Might be able to get some access in there too, make the thing easier to work on since you could unbolt the turbo, then the custom tubes, then the manifold. I guess I just had this thought when I was reading Mike's latest post about fixing his blown motor and he mentioned hogging out the exhaust manifold. If you read up on the NA manifolds they are supposed to be pretty damn good, to the point where there isn't that much of a benefit from a header on an NA until you get the engine pretty seriously built. There are some dyno sheets on zhome.com IIRC if anyone is interested.

Why don't you just razor blade the deck, put rings in it, do a cheapy hone job with a ball hone, and slap some bearings in it and throw it back together with your studs and head gasket? For the cost of bearings, rings, a ball hone, and a gasket set plus your gasket and studs you could have it up and running again. It would be a good idea to check the head for straightness and deal with that if you need to. When you get the block out of the car you can flush the coolant passages with a hose. Hot tanking would be nice, but seems unnecessary. As to your porting the head and the exhaust manifold, well those things are dirt cheap if you do it or can be extremely expensive if you have someone else do it. I suppose it depends on how much time you have. If it needs to be up and running next week, then don't bother. I'd be more worried about getting the exhaust manifold done than porting the intake... Seems like you're prone to the "while I'm at its". Not that I'm any better off in that respect... If this is the car you don't want to spend money on, then don't spend money on it.

This is just a guess, but it sounds like this to me: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=37620 I once got a "bad zero" on the alignment machine and ended up with a LOT of toe in in the back. Both tires were bald in about a week, and they wore perfectly flat. A quick check with a tape measure could verify that this is the problem.

Octane boost is usually a mix of Xylene and Tolulene which is paint thinner. These solvents are available from the paint supply store for ~$8/gallon. The octane booster is sold in such small quantities that it basically does nothing. Most claim to boost octane 1 point, but if you look into it you'll find that they don't boost from 91 to 92 octane, they bump it from 91 to 91.1 octane. These chemicals will eat hoses if you run them straight, but they are fine and won't cause any problems up to about 30% mix in gas from what I've read. In fact, both Xylene and Tolulene are already in the gas you get at the pump, just in lower concentrations. I've run 5 gallons gas to one gallon Tolulene for a while and had no problems whatsoever (mixed with 91 that gives about 95 or 96 octane). Do a search here for octane booster or google it and you'll find home brew boosters using the above with a little mineral spirits and ATF mixed in. I do not understand why you would increase the octane and then retard the timing and cut back the boost. If you aren't having problems with detonation I'd be increasing the octane and running more boost and more timing. I'm not a turbo guy, but I don't see why the length of the probably 20 minute session would matter in terms of needing increased octane...

Got an interesting email from Gordon Glasgow, thought it would be nice to share with everyone here who was interested in this:

Do a search and I think you'll find a post from John Coffey somewhere in the archives that relates to this. Apparently he found a strut (or maybe a couple) that had the spindle pin hole drilled wrong. Just a plain 'ol manufacturing error. You might be able to fix it with adjustable eccentric bushings, or if you want to get really spiffy you can go with adjustable control arms, or search for "poor man's toe adjuster".

The black box is the module, and it is replaceable. It unscrews from the dizzy and there are either 2 or 4 wires that attach to the module. I think the '82 has the 4 wire module but I'm not sure. I know the E12-80 module is supposedly preferrable, but I can't recall why right off the top of my head. They are pretty common in the jy's, just take it off and look at the number molded in on the lower right corner of the module. Get the same module and you should be good to go. You can get them from Nissan, but they are something like $150 I think. I've bought the whole distributor from a jy with the module attached for $30. Here's another page to check out. If you're going to change the dizzy or try a new module, you might want to go through this stuff just to make sure that the bushings are ok while you're at it. I'd be willing to bet your vacuum advance mechanism is broken. Haven't seen a ZX dizzy where it wasn't. http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html

Well I can't argue with your direct experience Drax, but here's a little more of the other side: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=21469 It could very well be the environment. My previous experience was in sunny CA. Doesn't really matter though for ZR8ED, he is stuck with those calipers unless he intends to upgrade his cheapy daily driver...

OK, I was just trying to make sure you didn't have a problem like I did. The stator hit the reluctor on my ZX dizzy because the vacuum advance mechanism had come apart and allowed the breaker plate to tilt. When I first saw that the two had come into contact I thought that the distributor bushings that were the culprit but when I disassembled it and checked the bushings they were fine. I know you're using the 240 dizzy, not sure how common bushing or breaker plate issues are on that one.

I have to disagree with this. The early one uses a smaller pad and is heavier, but I've had a couple of parts ZX's now and never seen a bad one, I used mine for ~6 years, never had a problem, and a couple of friends with 510s run them and they've never had a bad caliper. The later style is much smaller and lighter and cleaner looking, but the ebrake very commonly freezes on them. One of my parts cars had a frozen caliper, a couple of friends had the same experience. A Nissan master tech was the one that convinced me to go with the early style despite the weight, because they are so much more durable. I had a little help making the decision because another friend was fixing his calipers on his '82 at the same time.

I tried...

Give him credit for not claiming that he invented the internets...

Anyone wanting to upgrade can sell a perfect set of fiberglass ZG's to me. $50 here... anyone want my $50???

Set em tighter when you do it cold. I'd go .006 and .008 cold, then recheck when warmed up. Also, my cam and the other aftermarket cams that I've seen run a little tighter clearance. Mine is .002 tighter than stock hot, so you might try running a little tighter once you get it running, if it is noisy.

Your rear calipers are frozen I bet. Those calipers are fairly notorious for that. I think the only solution is to rebuild or replace.