JMortensen

There is some debate as to which bearings to use. NTN are OK, Nissan are OK, and Timken are OK for racing use. I guess there are some cheapies that wear out quickly and should be avoided, but I don't know the brand names of those... In doing some shopping for bearings, I called VB and they absolutely refused to tell me what kind of bearings they had, so I ended up buying them from a local bearing supply place. The bearings I got were in Federal Mogul boxes and the bearings themselves were NTN and Koyo, and both of these are used by Nissan so they are good quality. They were about $95 per side. On the fronts I ordered Timken and got some no name Spanish bearing and returned them for Timken, and they ran ~$45 per wheel. So thats more like $300 in bearings, with no grease the way I did it.

Word to the wise bearings and seals are $$$, especially in the back.

Wow Pyro that sounds familiar. Except for very slight differences in the rear gears, clutch, and cam you basically had the same setup I used to have.

Well that makes sense, and like I said before certainly won't hurt anything. For some reason I thought you were saying "things I'm going to do" not "things I've already done". I've been doing a lot of that recently...

[devil's advocate] So maybe they should give the imperialist countried a big "F you" and get some nukes. Then those imperialist countries would be FORCED to show Iran some respect...[/devil's advocate]

Drax do you need to deburr the block on a turbo engine? I suppose it depends what your plans are, but I was under the impression that deburring was more for the more extreme vibrations that accompany extremely high revving engines. Seems to me turbo L's usually don't fit those qualifications. Certainly can't hurt anything, but lemme tell you that job is quite tedious.

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=31206 When those videos were taken I had 8.5:1 and .490/280 cam, triples, and 2.5" exhaust. Ran pretty good. Runs better with the new flat top piston bottom end...

It's a safe bet to replace ball joints and outer tie rod ends on just about any Z you pick up. Control arm bushings, TC bushings (do a search on this one), and maybe steering coupler would be next. You can check all of those components for play individually so you don't buy anything you don't need to, but ball joints and tie rod ends would be my first stop if I were you.

I saw the ...... after I replied, sorry about that. I understand what you are saying but if I had 5,000,000,000,000 gallons of lamp oil I wouldn't be shopping for candles, if you know what I mean...

I'm well into the stitch welding prep right now. What a bitch!!! Anyhow I stripped off all the rubber sound deadener on the rear deck yesterday (air chisel pops it right off, just need to clean the residue off). When I got the rubber off and it looks like the early 240s have a single piece of sheet metal that lays flat where the later Z's have the compartments. This piece is spot welded to the deck just forward of the strut towers, and it has a little lip that is spot welded to the vertical piece behind the seats. My plan is to stitch the seam in front of the strut towers, and also where it hits the vertical piece, and also along the sides if possible. Warning to anyone wanting to do this: It's a bigger job than it looks. And I was pulling off some BEAUTIFUL welds on my struts and crossmember, etc. Welding this sheet metal is humbling... Questions: 1. I've seen people weld up the 4 big rectangular holes in the vertical panel behind the seats. Am I correct in thinking that there is a bit of stiffness to be gained there? 2. The swiss cheese holes in the deck... I wouldn't think that they are a problem. I was planning on not worrying about them. Good idea? Should something be done about that area?

Why would any OPEC country need an outside source of energy for power production??? Come on Pop think about it. These guys could burn any number of petroleum products and produce energy without having to stir the shit. It seems clear to me that they want to be the big bad Islamic theocracy with a missile. I think Israel will take unilateral action, and I think if I were Israeli I'd be wanting to take unilateral action. Whether they can defuse the situation alone remains to be seen.

With coilovers done right and rolled fenders I think a 9" rim will fit. I haven't tried myself, but with my 8's and the amount of space, that's my best estimate. That puts you somewhere in the 245 to 265 low pro tire. I would use closer to the 245 myself, but I'm more concerned with handling than going fast in a straight line.

Yeah, it will FIT on the rim. Sure. But it won't WORK very well on an 8" rim. Take it from a guy who is running a 250/45/15 slick on an 8" rim and wishing he had 9" or 9.5" rims. Then again, if you like that balloon tire look and don't really care about the handling, then it will fit... EDIT--Drag slicks are MUCH different than low pro street tires. The sidewall of that low pro is going to be stiff, which is where the problem comes in.

Looks like the cowl is now attached to the A pillar though... I agree though, it LOOKS nice.

http://www.modernracer.com/hondacivicsi2002.html Curb of 2744, add 150+ lbs of stereo say 180 lbs for driver, 3050 or so. I was thinking that Mike was WAY off base, but turns out you're pretty damn close... One more reason to laugh at Honda morons...

Did you make any $$$ selling the extra Mat? I hope you did. I know I bought a set of spacers...

Comments??? Shot across the bow??? The Mossad just assassinated a Hamas leader in Damascus. http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=540&ncid=736&e=9&u=/ap/20040928/ap_on_re_mi_ea/syria_palestinians I don't know what to think on this one. On the one hand they could attack and hope for a Spanish style response, but they have to know better by now. You know the last thing they want is another 4 years of Bush. It's a tough one. We'll see...

Not so sure on this one. I think it will extend the SERVICE INTERVAL by a huge amount, but not the life of the caliper. The only thing moving in the calipers is the pistons past the seals. You can buy new pistons and new seals for the Wilwoods. What else is going to wear out??? The main reason I resisted Wilwoods for so long was the lack of dust seals, and the fact that I drive my car on the street. Having suffered from no brake pedal on a number of occasions now, I wanted to avoid any potential leaks. But it really boils down to how you change the pads AFAIK. When you change pads on Wilwoods, I've heard 2 approaches: 1. Disassemble the caliper, change all the seals, inspect the pistons for scratches, and reassemble. 2. Push the pistons out farther, clean the pistons as much as possible, then push them back in and hope that they don't leak. I've also heard people say it doesn't matter and that you just push the pistons in normally and it won't cause a leak. As far as downsides to the PBRs the main one is COST. They seem to be touted as at least as rigid as Wilwoods (which surprised me) and they are lightweight, although I don't have exact weights to compare.

I just assumed he'd be going to an L28 bottom end. Dan's right, there isn't really any point to working on an L26, unless it's just to keep it running while you source an L28.

Do a search here and you'll find some less outstanding reviews on the Phantom Grip. It is going to work for a while, no doubt about it. The longer you use it, the less it works. Change the gear oil and theres a whole lot of metal in it. That crap is running through your bearings, and being shoved between the ring and pinion. I don't know that anyone has checked diff fluid temp while running a PG, but I bet it is SKY HIGH. But here's my real problem: If you set the spring pressure really high so that it doesn't spin a tire coming out of a corner hard on the gas, then it is going to cause a lot more push when you're trying to get INTO that same corner, and is also going to be really really tight just driving around town. If you set it nice for driving around town, then it is going to slip coming out of that corner. Again just about every other LSD available including the Nissan clutch style, the Torsen, the Quaiffe, etc all "sense torque." The harder you push, the more it locks up. Look at posts in the drivetrain forum where people who have broken their diff. I've seen one common problem. The cross pin shaft wallows it's hole in the case. There is only one cross pin in the 2 pinion open diffs, and there are 2 pins taking the load in the 4 pinion posis. So these inserts don't fix the major area of weakness in the R200.

What Doug said will work but I would expect that you'd be really lucky if those gears weren't noisy. The ring and pinion do wear into one another. Here is another attempt at an explanation of ring gear bolt spacers: The bolt size is the only real difference between the old R200 and the newer R200 (not dealing with the short nose, just the long nose here). So you can use the 12mm ring gear with 10mm bolts. The bolts should be snug in the ring gear, and obviously there is going to me a 1mm gap all the way around the bolt. So you get a 1mm wall thickness tube that is 12mm Outside Diameter and 10mm Inside Diameter. Cut the tube into 10 pieces that are as thick as the carrier, deburr them and drop them in. Now you can use your 10mm bolts, and they are snug in the carrier. Here is another thread dealing with this issue:http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32641&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

So are you going to tell everyone who the "bankers" are Kevin? A close look at his post of the bankers' names should tell anyone who they are. What does your conspiracy theory say that we should "do" about them Kevin? How much of your conspiracy theory do you believe, and how far towards the ugly and evil end of that theory do you go?

I think it probably is. It basically works just like a Phantom Grip, but has some Kevlar where the blocks meet the side gears. Relies on the spring pressure between the blocks to limit the slip, and does not "sense torque" like the Nissan Clutch style and the gear driven styles. Also still relies on the 2 pinion setup, which is the weak link in the R200.

Shave the P79 .080 and install the N42 valves and shim the cam towers .080 and the cam geometry and all that should stay correct. Your machinist should be able to get cam tower shims for you. Don't worry about the exhaust liners, they're not much if any hindrance until you really start porting the head a lot. The N42 can just be slapped on, but some have experienced pinging with that combo. Both the E31 and the N42 have lots of sharp edges in the chambers which can cause pinging, where the P90 uses a much better casting AND has a much larger quench area which should provide a significant advantage. Neither the E31 nor the N42 is the best head from the factory IMO, and you'll spend probably 3x more in machine work to install larger seats in the E31 then you will to shave the P79. That P79 should theoretically get you to ~9.6:1 with a bone stock flat top L28 bottom end. The N42 gets 9.8, and the E31 gets 10.2. These numbers assume that the head hasn't been shaved before you got ahold of it. We just had a LONG and surprisingly bitter argument about this, search the 6 cylinder archives for a post that started with Newbie. Should still be on the first page of the 6 cyl forum. Look here for more info on shaving the head: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html