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JMortensen

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Everything posted by JMortensen

  1. Anyone consider installing them with butyl tape instead of weatherstripping? Seems like it would be a lot easier, and would still seal well. Any windshield installers out there? Is this a dumb idea? Don't know how to make it look good, but sealing well shouldn't be a problem... Jon
  2. IIRC, the stock temp sender is in the thermostat housing. Before you do ANYTHING I suggest that you find another way to check that the temp gauge is accurate. I would venture a guess to say that it is not. I switched from the stock temp gauge to an Autometer mechanical gauge, and there was a HUGE difference in what the gauge read, with no other changes. If it gets hot again, try to find a shop with a pyrometer (if you don't own one yourself) and see if they can verify the temps. IME thermostats stick open or stick shut, they don't usually fail in a way that causes the car to run hot one day and cold the next. Jon
  3. So what's the deal with KA24's and VG30's ticking really bad after an autox run? I know its the lifters, but that doesn't make any sense if the lifters pump to a particular pressure then hold it. Maybe the lifters lose their pressure when they slow down for a corner and rpms drop??? Just curious, not trying to keep the argument going... Jon
  4. Offbeat Humor - Pumpkin (not PumpkinHead) SEE THIS MOVIE!!! Mystery - The Usual Suspects (the 1st time) Western - Tombstone Documentary - On Any Sunday Mockumentary - Trekkies (not really my favorite, I'm not a Trekkie, but strangely fun to watch) Historical Fiction - Saving Private Ryan Sci-Fi - From Dusk til Dawn Romance - Forget Paris Comedy - There's Something about Mary Depressing - Leaving Las Vegas Jon
  5. Here's some sick cat humor (PETA members don't bother). http://www.richsalter.btinternet.co.uk/cks2/index.html Jon
  6. Could also have been a halfshaft joint binding... Jon
  7. Spider gears would make themselves known when you tried to turn, but not going straight. A pinion gear would clunk about every 3 feet, and a ring gear will clunk about every 10 feet while going straight. It should be pretty easy to tell which one is gone. Doesn't really matter though. You still have to pull it apart or replace it no matter which is bad. Jon
  8. I thought system pressure was determined by the radiator cap and flow pressure by the water pump, so the system pressure wasn't affected by the flow pressure. Also, seems like there would be plenty of other restrictions in the system, ie radiator, coolant passages in the head, etc. As always, I could be wrong... Jon
  9. I'm coming up on 7 years in April. Although it was her schooling that dragged me to WA, I have to say that I wouldn't have it any other way. Being married is great, if you pick the right person. Sounds like you have enough experience with this girl that your decision is about as informed as mine was. If you know you're doing the right thing, don't let anyone dissuade you with "you're so young" and crap like that. I look at my single friends now (still a majority) and they are all lonely as hell, and envy me in a big way... Good luck, I hope you end up as happy as I am. Jon
  10. I have to say something here, because it seems that this is getting nasty. David - I'd be reluctant to believe you if I had EXPERIENCED the opposite too. I think Bob has it right that LJ is comparing apples to oranges, but there is some merit to "been there done that" experience too. I am much less likely to purchase Pirelli tires now that I've owned 2 sets and they both went out of round and constantly needed to be balanced. You might tell me all day long that Pirelli makes the best tire on the planet (and I had a friend who did this for months), but I still won't believe you (or him). Also, all of your contentions are based on the reseach that you've done. I could reseach the shape of our lovely planet at the Flat Earth Society http://www.flat-earth.org/ website for hours and still come to an incorrect conclusion. Not saying that your research is wrong, just that research alone has limitations. Yo has the best contribution I think. Just look at the rockers between the Mitsu motor and the L series. That speaks volumes to me. Really, though, when you get to this situation it's best to just drop it. You build your hydraulic head, LJ can build his solid lifter head, and no one is the worse for wear. Someone needs to be open minded for the argument to be worthwhile. Apparently neither of you are. Jon
  11. If a pic is worth a thousand words, what is this worth??? http://home.comcast.net/~otownsme/accident.WMV And more importantly, what the hell happened? He missed the shift and spun into a field??????? Jon
  12. Radiator paint would work. It doesn't clump together and fill in the fins. I'd check with a radiator shop. Jon
  13. I think majik's #42 car with the flares and the double tail has to win some sort of award. That's pretty nasty. The bondo machine is a close second IMO... Jon
  14. People complain about the short steer knuckles making the steering too fast. I have the knuckles and it doesn't bother me. To each his own. But this steering quickener is gonna be a whole other deal. Depending on the box ratio (I think most of those are 1.5:1) that sucker's gonna be TWITCHY. It'd probably be GREAT for autox if you have the muscles to steer the damn thing. I know it gets a little tiring for me with a 250 wide slick and low air pressure. I would imagine one of those boxes would make your Z a little sketchy on the street though. It would be cool to go lock to lock without having to take your hands from 9 and 3... Jon PS--If you do it don't let your buddy drive your car....
  15. Don't want to insult, but I've seen at least 10 people with the calipers on the wrong sides. Your bleeders are up on the top of the caliper, right? Jon
  16. Make sure you keep doing what you were doing, though. Don't drive at one speed because you don't want it to smoke. Take it up and down in rpms, let it engine brake. Jon
  17. You could rebuild a clutch master and slave the same way that brake masters and slaves can be rebuilt. Don't see too many people doing that anymore. IMO just replace them. Jon
  18. I think he's saying that it has holes, but no baffles. I'd suspect the piston rings first though. When you decel, it draws a lot of oil onto the cylinder walls. If the oil rings can't scrape it off... smoke. New engine? Old? What's the story with the engine? Jon
  19. I've looked in all my catalogs. $48 seems to be a REALLY good deal. Jon
  20. The Porsche 944 Turbo has a similar rear undertray spoiler thingy. Here's a few links: http://www.dimmer.net/hosted/944central/photos/14s2.jpg http://www.dimmer.net/hosted/944central/photos/t5.jpg According to my ex boss these things actually do something! In fact he was reading a Circle Track magazine one day and I was making fun of him, then he showed me the article on aerodynamics and dragged me out to the shop and showed me how his 944 Turbo S had every aero tweak mentioned in the article straight from the factory (with the exception of twisting the passenger cabin on the body)!!! Jon
  21. I seem to remember that you need to leave the eccentric on there or get another washer that is the same thickness and ID because it has a shoulder on it and the cam gear bolt won't sit flat on the end of the cam without it. I know I've still got mine on there even though I've switched to an electric pump. It's been a while though... Jon
  22. Hey, I didn't catch all of this earlier. I turned 29 on the 3rd. My best friend turned 29 on the 4th. Must have been really cold around March of '74... Jon
  23. Poly bushings should last a LONG time. Much longer than a hard delrin bushing that is tweaked at a weird angle to get the toe you want. At least that is my untested estimation. Also, think of how much load is being put on the bushing. Not a whole heck of a lot, compared to some of the stuff people do, like making caster adjusting TC rods and running poly front control arm bushings. EDIT--keep in mind the whole bushing cup moves as the turnbuckle is adjusted, so the only additional load on the bushing comes from the control arm being "not straight" in relation to the original design. Since a lot of you seem to think that 0 toe is best, there would be no additional load on the bushings, since that was where the Z was designed in the first place. We're just making it adjustable so that it can be equalized on both sides. In my case where I plan to run 3/32 per side toe in, I still think this is negligable in comparison to poly bushings in front with adjustable caster, but I will swing the control arms up and down to check for suspension bind--something that everyone should be doing when running something new or not stock. I seem to remember a good amount of deflection in my old poly front control arm bushings when I had the G Machine TC rod setup in front, and I think that was part of why I went rod ends on both of those pieces eventually. EDIT2--That difference from the original design would be cut in half and spread between the front and rear bushings too, so only half of the misalignment would be carried by any 1 bushing. Jon
  24. Just pull the rubber boot off the master, then the slave. If brake fluid drips out of either, then the seals are leaking. I always replace both at the same time, FWIW. Jon
  25. Uhhhh, to drive the mechanical fuel pump. Jon
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