JMortensen

Steve at TEP had a picture of that car in his shop (pretty sure that's it). I can't remember if he said that he worked on it or built it, but he said it was entered in the Silver State Classic, and IIRC he said it was capable of 170 mph +. Don't know how much of that story I believe... Jon

Not directed at anyone in particular, but all I can say is if someone calling a Z06 or a Z28 a "Z" is offending you, you must spend your whole life being offended. This thread reminds me of NOW arguing that they should be called "personhole covers". I guess some people are offended by manhole cover You're all starting to sound like a bunch of womyn... Jon

If I was racing right now I'd be on that like flies on you-know-what. Too bad for me... Jon

I have to agree with what Nic said. I don't know if any of you watch Penn and Teller's show "Bullsh!t" on Showtime, but they got LOTS of signatures at an Earth day rally to ban "di-hydrogen oxide". They claimed that it was filling our lakes and rivers, that companies used it to process chemicals, etc. Very funny to watch people sign that. Freakin lemmings... Just because the petition is in your local auto parts store doesn't mean you should sign it. If you're not going to take the time to read it, don't sign it. I once signed a petition to get open area usage on the ballots so that voters could determine what happened to open space in my area (SOAR if anyone recognizes that). Turns out I was signing a petition that supported letting voters determine what was done with PRIVATELY HELD open space. So if you were a farmer and wanted to sell your land the voters had to agree that you should be ABLE to sell it and had to approve of who you sold it to and the reason it was sold (they wanted to stop developers from buying farmland). I was pissed when I saw that I had been tricked into getting that crap on the ballot, luckily it did not pass in my area. Jon

Well I wouldn't complain about anything but the plastic looks on the girl myself. Too perfect. Too much silicone (sorry Silicone Boy). Reminds me of those freaky Duracell commercials... Jon

We used 3/16" on my old bosses's Porsche, and half the Lexan cracked and came off at 160 mph from the air pressure inside the cabin. I think they ended up putting some holes in it with a hole saw eventually. On a friend's 510, we used 1/8", but we really don't expect it to see over 125 or so. Jon

Nice work Terry! I'll let everyone know what mine looks like when it's done. Probably springtime before I'll get to it. Jon

So were there 6 people there or something? If you took 5th overall in an autox in a Rodeo... In the clubs that I've run with, you would not have been allowed to drive a Rodeo. Jon PS--I'm SURE we'll see SCCA drifting events. Ricer money is still money.

Just a tip to make life easier (something you may already know): get a long 10mm wrench and loosen the top of the curved chain guide and push it back so that you have a little more slack on the chain. Otherwise getting the cam gear back on is a PITA. Jon

I had a friend with BRE stripes on his 510. He was in his late 20's at the time, and did not look like a punk kid (6', 240lbs, beard). He got pulled over CONSTANTLY in that car. When he repainted he went british racing green, then promptly made it a full on race car and now it gets trailered everywhere. He should have had the BRG on the street car, and the stripes when it went full race. Hindsight is 20/20. Jon

I'm running a 250 on an 8" rim and I want to go 9" or preferably 9.5", but I'll need flares despite the coilovers. They work fine, but I'm sure that the tires will work much better on the correct size rim, plus I can get a little more offset to widen the track a hair. Never had any instability at speed problems since getting the bumpsteer issues fixed. Jon

Aux is right. There are only a few worse vehicles to take to a drifting event. Possibly a Samurai or a Wrangler.... I doubt most places would even let you autox a Rodeo. Jon

My experience was that the hazards always worked fine, but the blinker would not flash in one direction or the other. The problem was not the soldered connections, but rather the rocker contacts inside. I tried to pull several of the 240 hazard switches apart, but the metal tabs would just crumble when you tried to pry on them. So IMO it could still be the hazard switch, but I was also working on 240's and not 280's. I hate stupid problems like that where it should be a simple fix but isn't. Good luck with it. HTH, Jon

I agree with jasonfen. Sounds just like my Z and a few others that had bad hazard switches. I replaced mine, but I fixed a friend's. Instead of beating the crap out of it (don't really know what that would do other than make you feel better), we flipped the switch several hundred times in an attempt to clean the contacts. Worked on her 240. Jon

Here's a better link for the D962: http://www.diasio.com/ Jon

Dot, I've heard stories of laying a sheet down on the original window and forming it with a heat gun, but I've never actually seen or done it myself. I'd be curious to know the answer too... Jon

Here's my favorite 'Busa powered car... http://www.radicalmotorsport.com/ and my second favorite... http://pub182.ezboard.com/fdiasiofrm10 Jon

I have to wonder if this might not be a result of the vacuum advance messing up your timing settings. If it still works, and you held the rpms at 3500 or something and then set the max advance, the vacuum advance would kick the timing up significantly. If you didn't set timing with the vacuum disconnected, try again. It just seems odd that changing the carbs would have such an effect. Was anything else done at the same time? One more thing. I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but there are 2 lockdown bolts on the later dizzys, and IIRC there are 2 on the 240 dizzy as well. One is pretty obvious and uses a 10mm bolt, the other is hard to see but uses an 8mm bolt and is on the opposite (hard to reach) side of the dizzy and is tucked up underneath the dizzy body. I've known people who owned their Z for years and had never found the 2nd hold down. If you haven't already tried to adjust it there, give it a shot. IIRC you can get more adjustment out of the 8mm adjuster than you can out of the 10mm one. Jon

Well I think this answers my question about angle and inch conversions: http://www.drivewerks.com/tech/home_alignment.htm Looks like I remembered correctly. They used a 24" tire in their example, I am running a 25" tall tire. Jon

I am now starting to wonder about either your trig, Terry, or the alignment machine I used to work on, or my memory of it. I used this machine just about every day for more than a year, and I would swear that on a 25" tall tire, degrees and inches were basically the same. .5* was .5 inches. So I used to set my toe to about .20* total, which I had assumed was roughly 3/16". We did everything in degrees at that shop, so I only saw the conversion when I hit a button to manually switch from degrees to inches, which I only did once or twice. I'm beginning to question how much rear toe I actually have in the car, since you are stating that 3/8" = .9*. It's been 5 years and a head injury since I was doing alignments professionally, so I'm wondering if I might be remembering my own alignment specs wrong... Also, your link looks like it's going to work out nicely. Good job. Jon

I have had a similar swaybar experience. I was driving my little Toy P/U through the canyons to go ride my dirt bike and it was getting a little hairy, especially when I had friends along and 3 motorcycles in the back, so I installed a rear sway bar. Contrary to what you might think, this made the truck plow really bad, so I then upgraded the front bar, and the problem was solved. I think you need to run both your front and rear aftermarket sway bars for the best results. 3 most important mods I did to my Z to solve the push in order of importance: 1. Increased caster 2. Increased neg camber 3. Installed strut tower bars Obviously you'll need some adjustable suspension parts to change the caster and camber, and strut tower bars are not stock either (you said you have a rear bar, no front?). On an otherwise stock Z with the springs and shocks you listed, all you can do is change front toe and tire pressures and ride height, although ride height will also change camber. These were the most important upgrades after the basics, better springs, shocks, and bushings. Eventually I ended up with heims jointed control arms and TC rods. The info Jkube asked for would be very helpful in narrowing down the possible culprits. Jon

Congratulations! Jon

You really have to measure bump steer to fix it. Some people say 3/4, some say 7/8, some say up 3/4 out 1/4. I wouldn't trust any of it. Jon

1994 Sentra SE-R with 5 speed and 86,000 miles in good condition is $3010 according to http://www.kbb.com, at least in my zip code. Jon

Here's a trick for brake line fittings. Get a cheap flare nut wrench, cut the end off, and grind some shallow grooves in the outside. Put that on the fitting, then grab it with the Vise Grips. The Vise Grips will prevent the end of the wrench from spreading. Works good. Jon