JMortensen

Check http://www.zhome.com in the technical articles there is some info. Jon

Isn't that the usual MO of a bad module? Gets hot, won't work, cools off, works fine? Vapor lock could be caused by the heat too, I suppose... The engine would definitely have heat soaked while sitting in the parking lot, so don't count heat out yet. I've got a mechanical temp gauge on my Z, probe mounted in the thermostat housing and it will run at 190, turn it off it for 5 minutes, and the temp is at 210 or 215. Start it up, coolant circulates, and it immediately goes back down. Jon

I agree with you BOZ, but I think it's worse than that. I think if you are under heavy braking there would be a tendency to twist the TC clevis bracket off the control arm as well, especially when braking hard on a rough road or track. I know there isn't a whole heck of a lot of movement in the TC rods, but there's got to be a pretty substantial force applied to the rod when braking and a vertical force from going over bumps simultaneously, especially on slicks. At least the stock unit relied on 2 bolts spreading the load over the top of the whole control arm, and had a bit of a damper in the TC and control arm bushings. I much prefer the design I have, which is much the same as the now defunct ZFR design. Only difference is mine uses 3/4" rod end and turnbuckle. All that said, I haven't heard anyone complaining of broken AZZC control arms. Yet. Jon

You can cut the race with a dremel tool either with a cutoff wheel, or if the opening is too small with a grinding burr. Once you cut it it will probably fall out on its own. Just try not to cut into the flywheel. A little scratch won't hurt, but don't put a huge notch in the flywheel. Jon

The finned cover will fit any R200, but they stick out about 3 inches off the back of the diff, so you would need to make a new mustache bar (still called that in 280ZX right???) to fit. Stock unit won't even be close. Jon

If the car isn't going to be ultra stiff and low, I'd go for the rear sway bar. Even on street tires when you are at a reasonable height and spring rate, the car will still lean quite a bit under hard cornering. For the rear if you're just looking for a sporty ride, go poly on control arms and mustache bar. With the coilovers you mentioned and some good struts, there's not much more to do, unless you want to start changing toe settings, at which point you can go with G Machine bushings or adjustable control arms. For street driving that's probably more trouble than its worth, unless you find that you've got one of John C's newly discovered faulty strut housings. Stock control arms put rear toe right at 0 if I remember correctly, which is where a lot of racers like it. Jon

I think rags was asking if you had your manifold extrude honed, Cody. Extrude honing won't remove huge amounts of metal. You need to port the manifold with a die grinder, then extrude hone if you want the super polished effect. Jon

I agree with John C, Motul 600 or I've also used ATE Super Blue. Jon

I have taken my Arizona Z Car flywheel to 3 machinists now. Every one of them said "WOW! Do you have a scattershield?" No kidding. The same with all 3. It is THIN. The last one told me to use this dye on it. I can't remember the name of the stuff (chem-dye???), but I'm sure someone here will know what it is. Anyway, you put the dye on the metal surface, let it sit for so long, then clean it all off. Then you spray this white foam on the metal, and wherever there is a crack, the dye will wick out and you can see it. The flywheel passed the test, so I stuck it back in. I also made some small 1/4" plate guards that cover the driver's and passenger's feet. I talked to a long time drag racer, and he said that a kevlar tranny blanket would work to control the flywheel. I called Summit and they said no, so I don't know what to think. Certainly it wouldn't hurt. There has to be a good option for those of us who still use Nissan trannies. Anyone else have a good idea, or an opinion on the kevlar blanket??? Jon

I adapted the Mikuni linkage to my Cannon manifold and had a set of 3/4" velocity stacks made because the 3" stacks won't fit inside the fender on the long manifold. Jon

You can measure the current draw with a voltmeter (on milliamps) as Moby said, then pull fuses one at a time. When you pull a fuse and the draw goes away, then you know which circuit is causing the draw. Then you just figure out what is on that circuit and where the problem is. FWIW, I hate trying to track stuff like that down. NEVER A FUN JOB I'm no electrical whiz either though... Jon

Too late for that! Kitchak probably wishes he had that matress there at Sears Point a year or two ago when he DID flip it. Into a wall on the roof as I recall... Where has all the road racing gone? All I can find is NASCAR on Speed these days Jon

I don't know if you can use stainless exhaust tubing or if you need something thicker. Closer to the bottom of the page... http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml;$sessionid$M3APMNIAABJQUQSNDV0SFE0CJUOXKIV0?CATID=3170&BQ=jcw2 Jon

This one looks pretty close... http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/025.pdf Jon

I want one that says Practice random acts of getting the f*&!@ off my @$$! Jon

My understanding is that the top half of the spring is sprung weight, and the bottom is unsprung weight. You would want the tighter coils of a progressive spring to be at the top to increase the sprung and decrease the unsprung. This makes such a small difference that you would never know, but that's the deal. Jon

Why don't you just adjust it back? All you did was add adjustment. How you choose to align the car is up to you... Jon

Isn't Magnaflow made by Dynomax??? Jon

Yep, you can make whatever you want. Put that prop valve where you can reach it, make brake line sculptures that pass thru the cabin, whatever. My advice would be to buy a tubing bender as well, as it is pretty easy to kink the tube if you are trying to do a really sharp bend. The key for me was chamfering the end of the tube. I kept trying and trying,then I READ THE DIRECTIONS on the tool, and after chamfering the end, I couldn't go wrong. I used a drill bit for that, BTW. Jon

The later 280ZX style has the module bolted to the side of the dizzy, which some people dislike but I prefer. The modules are expensive to replace but I never had one go bad before I used MSD by itself, and I've got 3 spares that I picked up for next to nothing. If you don't want to use that module you can run MSD or something similar. The benefit of this distributor is the trigger wheel has 6 prongs, and the stator has 6 prongs. All 6 have to line up for a spark to occur, should theortetically be more accurate than the 280Z unit. If you get one from a junkyard here's a link to a page that discusses checking bushings and replacing if necessary. This helped me out a lot and JD was very cool to me, so I keep posting the link on this forum from time to time. http://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~jrdemers/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html Jon

The Motorsport kit doesn't contain bushings. It is just a set of slotted washers and a set of eccentric washers. It would be a very good idea to do both at the same time, since you'll already have the semi-trailing arms off the car. The kit is only $40 + $40 if you don't already have the hole saw. I still don't understand how the washers attach to the subframe, but if it works it would enable you to fix the camber and toe problem. I say go for both and let us know how you like the kit. Worse case scenario the kit sucks and you return it to MSA. Still no one knows if it works for 510s??? Bummer... Jon

Cody - What you've got pictured is for a 300ZX front upper control arm (I think) and it just lengthens and shortens the upper control arm to control camber. The slot is where the bushing at the front of the control arm attaches to the subframe. You can lift the inner pivot for camber and use the eccentric they provide for the rear to control toe. Changing toe changes camber slightly, so you have to keep adjusting one, then the other, then the other, until it is right. No prob Afshin, I've stuck my foot in my mouth a few times on this board too. Jon

Anyone else want to weigh in? I don't want to be disrespectful but I am convinced that I'm right. One guy I know runs old Camaro shocks in the rear of his 510. I've worked on 510s, and pulled parts from a 280ZX, but never actually done an alignment on either. Done lots of 911 alignments... Also, I have a friend who is slotting his 510 crossmember in the next week or two. Anyone know if this kit works for the 510? Jon

Go get a mechanics stethoscope (sp?). Then you can place the probe around the block and head and maybe figure it out. Alternatively get a broom handle and put that up to your ear to listen. Jon

How about a light flywheel? Stock turbo flywheel is what 25 lbs??? You can have a stock one turned down to ~15, but that always seemed like a lot for a cast iron flywheel. Don't know if there is an aftermarket available for turbo. Check with the guy on Ebay who sells Fidanza. He could tell you if they are available. Centerforce aluminum flywheels are not that light if I recall correctly... Jon