JMortensen

This might help to visualize what I'm doing.

This might help to visualize what I'm doing.

You'll need to cut more than the stock lip and then build a space for the tire to move up and down in without hitting anything. It's possible to fit a VERY slightly wider tire by rolling the fender lip, but making the arch wider won't change the position of the inner lip, which is where the interference is. Even guys who go with larger flares screw this up. A lot of people who install ZG flares cut just the lip of the fender off and then bolt the flare onto the body. Even though the flare adds 2" to the width of the quarter, it doesn't allow room for the tire to move. I just picked this pic up off of Facebook a couple days ago, shows the problem more clearly (although I think they posted it as a desirable end result). I would imagine that your reprofiled lip would just about cover this tire, but it clearly won't allow for suspension travel.

You're not going to break Joe's axles. You'd be much more likely to break the CV joints. If you're that worried, you could pack an extra set, but really, there haven't been too many people blowing through CV's.

Joe has short CV shafts like M2 used to make, and stubs and companion flanges. He's a good guy, doing the right thing for the Z community.

Two reasons Dan: I don't have the rest of the drivetrain hard mounted and don't want to go to the hassle at this point, and the oil pump is under the timing cover on the LS engine. I know it can be done, but it's a bit more tricky than a SBF or SBC.

Angle on the tube will be about 18 degrees as close as I can estimate it, and thanks in advance. The tube is DOM, FWIW.

I am making motor mounts and second guessing myself. I've got limited clearance around the steering shaft, so the motor mount has to fit above it, and the engine can't come up and down vertically very much due to the cage members in the engine compartment, so this is what I came up with. I've got a plate with a section of square tube welded on as a clevis which holds a generic urethane bushing setup. There will be a section of 1.5 x .095 tube that runs out above the frame rail, and this will weld to a 2" tall section of 1.5 x .095 which will bolt to the rail. The rail will be reinforced with a piece of 1.5 x .120 angle, and it will have a nut welded to the bottom side for the bolt to catch. Essentially this is similar in effect to the Trans Dapt mounts, but the Trans Dapt doesn't bolt on at the frame end, it welds directly to the frame. http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans+Dapt/969/4501/10002/-1 There will be a slight downward angle to the tube that goes to the frame rail. I dunno why it's bothering me, but it is. Am I being paranoid?

Still looking for 400s.

I wouldn't say that the GC or DP racing plates are for the novice. I think DP has "biscuit" style plates that use two of the original bolt holes on top. That is novice level stuff, but cutting the top of the strut top for the plate is a big deal for a lot of people.

Looks like you were more interested in changing the lip on the quarter. Looks good!

Looking for a pair of 400 lb springs. Anyone have something for me?

Looks like you have to make the files public.

When you post, click the "More Reply Options" button down at the bottom right, then attach the pics from that screen. I can't wait to see what you came up with.

I just looked at McKinney's site. He has coilover kits that keep the stock isolator; those allow you to adjust the height, use a smaller spring, but don't lose the thick isolator so you don't gain the travel and lower the car at the same time as described before. He also has coilovers with camber plates. Just get the version with the camber plates and you will get the beneficial effect. You might ask if his camber plates require cutting and welding. Some do some don't. Then you can deal with Shaikh on the bumpstops. If you're not up on all of this though, you might want to do some more research until you understand what you're buying. Going to camber plates will put a lot more NVH in the car, so if it's a street car that never sees the track it might be overkill and more than you want.

FatCat works on anything, but they made their name in Miatas. If you call I'm sure they could give you more advice. Not sure why you want to keep the stock springs, but it kind of defeats the purpose of the camber plates, namely adjusting camber.

None to my knowledge. Part of the reason to switch to camber plates is so you can move them to change camber. The stock spring size takes up a lot of room so moving to a 2.5" ID coilover spring so that you have room to adjust the camber is part of the deal.

Here is some bumpstop tech: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL75DC8BAD62876251

There is a guy who did his own on a Miata and he put NACA ducts in it for the trans and the diff, and then left a space above the diffuser to let that air out. Here is his thread: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89-roadster-projects/44470-my-na-becomes-track-car-build-thread.html

I like the way you think. I've got the TC's slotted too... I haven't driven with the TC's slotted yet, but I put quite a few miles on the car with the front crossmember slotted and had no issues. I just torqued the bolt to 80 ft/lbs and checked it every now and then, but it never budged.

All you need to adjust roll center in the front is a slotted crossmember. I slotted mine to adjust bumpsteer, but you can adjust bumpsteer at the tie rod and then use the slot for more RC adjustment if wanted. The real question is where do you put the RC. The best answer for our suspension seems to be at ground level or just above. Keith, are you jacking up the front end to adjust the camber plates? I did that for a while and then later found that it is a lot easier to move them smoothly with the weight of the car on them.

What do you want to see?

If you have the one with more clutches it also has more springs in it. Kind of a mystery to me why some people are getting chatter with the less aggressive setup, unless the more aggressive just locks up and doesn't chatter because it's essentially a spool, but then you'd hear people complain that it was chirping inside tires in parking lots and you don't.

Power Brute was the name of the aftermarket version of the Nissan LSD. It's a two way with more clutches and more aggressive ramps than the 87 ZX diff. I believe it's built the same as the more aggressive Nissan diff like bjhines has.

No problem. The link doesn't seem to be working since the update, here is the current link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=54771