JMortensen

Just for future searchers, Kevko makes steel pans. Not block stiffeners, but they have trapdoors and they'll do whatever depth sump you want, which is useful.

This is why I was saying if you don't know how it works, let someone who does fix it. Your BIL is right, but you would need to measure it to find out what spacer is necessary, and if you buy a similar kit for a Porsche or some other car, they've already measured it and come up with a generic recommendation based on that. I don't know how big your spacers are, but I moved the LCA pivots up about 7/16" to minimize my bumpsteer, so if yours are about that tall then you're probably in the ballpark. Changing the size of the spacer to make it fit is not the way to deal with this. Wheel spacers are a better solution.

Exactly John. If you haven't sectioned the struts and you're not running camber plates and have the stock insulators, maybe that works. For a race car, probably not. To know for sure pull the spring, put the wheel and tire on, and jack the suspension to the bumpstop. Running only a 23.5" tall tire with sectioned struts and camber plates I had to cut mine as high up as possible, so that the wheel arch is essentially flat, almost no curve down on the outside.

zredbaron's post on his build to 275 whp might be useful. Would help if you described your plan a bit more. Induction, exhaust, etc. 200 bhp is not a hard target to hit.

I don't mean to burst Andy's bubble, but that doesn't look like it's cut high enough. 240hoke had a thread where he screwed up and then fixed it. Better to get pics of it done right if you're going to share them.

I second the port and polish suggestion. Or cc the chambers and unshroud the valves. There's lots you can do before you get to the point where installing bigger valves is the best ROI.

Wheel spacer.

n/m

I think by "strut top" he means suspension upright, the part that the hub and strut will bolt to. Sounds beefy.

I think the interference problem will be worse with the rod end at the bottom of the stack.

Wrong offset on the rims would be my guess. The spacer should go between the steer knuckle and the rod end, and it should be the right size to fix the bumpsteer. If you installed it as shown in the pics on purpose, you might take the car to someone who knows about this stuff and have them figure out the issues.

Yes. Bolted to stock stub shafts and companion flanges.

I know they're already heat treated, and I know their CV shafts are heat treated HARD. Really hard. I didn't have the CV's tested since I wasn't going to make them. I think the best thing to do would be to either move to a better CV or to swap to a bigger diff. Solid makes a lot of sense for drag racing. Joe @ Chequered Flag was trying to do a Porsche style CV conversion. I don't know if he's made any headway, but then you'd have a significantly larger CV with a 4340 double heat treated chromoly stub shaft for the diff. I think at that point you'd probably run out of things to break before the ring and pinion itself.

The breakaway in the LSD is not enough to move the car if you lost a CV. It's also not enough to move it if one wheel is off the ground.

The point at which you change from gaining neg camber to gaining positive camber is when the control arm passes 90 degrees in relation to the STRUT TUBE, not the ground. Lots of people think that once the control arm passes horizontal to the ground then the strut loses neg camber. Not true. It would be difficult to run a car low enough to run into a situation where the car gains pos camber in bump. We have a really really good thread here that plots out camber curves, etc here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/63492-suspension-tech-motion-ratio-unsprung-weight/ The camber gain is very linear throughout Dan's (74_5.0L_Z) range of motion, and he has an extremely low autox Z car.

I have a 99 (NB) Miata and the seats in it are pretty terrible too. The later seats from 2001-2005 are a lot better, but still not a lot of lateral support. I don't have much experience with the NA seats. The foamectomy has more to do with the lack of headroom than the design of the seat. I did a foamectomy to get my head under the convertible top while wearing a helmet. When I did the foamectomy as described at miata.net, it felt like I was sitting on a very uncomfortable toilet seat. Leave the foam in the dished part of the seat directly under your butt, and cut it off from the top of the seat cushion is my advice on that one.

I've got a set of 5.3 exhaust manifolds that came with my longblock from a 2006 GMC 1500. They'll have to ship all the way across the country, which is a bummer. I figure that will probably run about $20, so if you give me $40 I'll ship them out tomorrow.

510 has a longer wheelbase. Seriously.

Had a better idea at 3:30AM this morning. Will run something similar to the Dingo mounts that Mikelly has, except I'll run the same bushing I had previously used on the frame and there will be a bolt on clevis so that it's in double shear. Might even try to run a brace up to the STB if I'm feeling wacky. We'll see...

Lift throttle oversteer?

Got the driver's side done, not sure I'm happy with the way it came out. I lowered the engine and the tube to the frame rail is pretty flat. 8 degrees is the angle there. Seems to me that more angle is better. Went to do the other side and it's even worse. 4 degrees. Not sure what to do now. Looked again at Mike Kelly's mounts, and they've got a bolt extended in single shear. Not ideal. Mine has a bolt in single shear too, but there are very few threads extended. Still thinking about alternatives. I made a new plate for the pass side and extended it up an inch and that didn't seem to help a whole lot. Made the mount shorter and the angle went from 4 to 20 degrees.

There is a good post by 240hoke, called something like "Installing them there ZG flares" which goes through the whole procedure with mistakes to learn from. In the front you just cut the old fender off. In the rear is where it gets tricky, and most people don't cut enough and install their flares too low.

Ls1tech.com says 28 for the Camaro too, so that's even more weight savings. Wonder what the difference is between your tiny flywheel and my flexplate. Guess I'll just figure it at about 40-45 lbs for my setup.

Tried Silvermine yet? I haven't paid too much attention, but I think they have a vented rear with e-brake.

You do some nice work, weedburner. Been admiring your album...