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AlbatrossCafe

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Everything posted by AlbatrossCafe

  1. AlbatrossCafe
    Thank you, that is definitely it. Now to figure out how to remove it... 😈
  2. AlbatrossCafe
    1978 280z with 1982 L28ET I have looked diagrams but this looks like it is on a custom bracket so I am a bit confused. It is on the driver's side right in front of the J-pipe. I think it had a fuel line coming off of it but I can't remember now that I look at it. Does it look familiar to anyone?
  3. AlbatrossCafe
    I got the same dual Spal fans that you did. I also need a new radiator (probably will get Mishimoto as well, is it this one?). I swear I am not just copying you, I just feel these are the best items for the job. Any luck with having someone cut a shroud for ya? Think we could work out a "bulk item" deal?
  4. AlbatrossCafe
    Yes, I am running that tank. The coolant level is about 1/2" above the "Min" line. Ah of course, it seems obvious now that you mention it. I filled the radiator to the brim once and called it good. I did not run it for a bit and then add a little more as I normally do. When I opened the rad after pulling over on my way home, the coolant was decently below filler neck. I'll add more this week and report back. Thanks.
  5. AlbatrossCafe
    I recently re-routed some coolant lines on my L28ET. On the passenger side of the engine, I removed a 3-way bypass valve and 3-way fitting out of the rear of the engine and replaced it with a 2-way valve at the rear of the engine. I have seen other engines like this and read it would be OK as long as I don't go crazy while the engine is still cold. Problem: After the engine is warm, the Temp gauge sits PEGGED at 250 degrees while driving. I was initially very concerned, but what I noticed is that while idling, it goes back down to it's normal operating range of 180 degrees! As I move, it climbs again (fairly rapidly). My gauge was working fine before I re-routed my coolant hoses. Also, my heater works so I know coolant is flowing through there. Where is this temp gauge? Is it absorbing hot hair from somewhere else? Any ideas why this might be happening? Here is how I re-routed my lines. From this: To this:
  6. AlbatrossCafe
    Here is a follow up to coolant hose issue... Replaced the old 3-way fitting with a 2-way. It cleaned up that side a bit as it went from having 4 separate coolant lines to just 2. I like it!
  7. AlbatrossCafe
    I was thinking that as well. It is only a 2" difference but that may have been just enough to put it over the edge. I didn't want it to stick out too far but now looking at it again I'm thinking it may be a tad short... DOH! lol
  8. AlbatrossCafe
    I had a stock exhaust on my 280z with L28ET. it had a chambered muffler and a catalytic converter. I just installed 3" mandrel bent with NO CAT and a straight through muffler. It terminates a little closer to the body than my last one did. I now smell TONS of fumes. I think it is related to the loss of the CAT, not my seals, as I couldn't smell anything at all before. I'm dizzy after a 20 min drive
  9. AlbatrossCafe
    Awesome, thanks for this. This prevented me from dumping my money on it. The shroud seems awkwardly small for 12" fans. I bet I can buy some aluminum sheeting and hack something up that works just fine.
  10. AlbatrossCafe
    Wheels: XXR 527 Black Chrome Wheel Size: 16x8.25 +0mm offset Link: https://www.nlmotoring.com/XXR-527-Wheels-16x8-25-Chromium-Black-p/52768082n.htm Tires: Continental ExtremeContact Sport Tire Size: 225/50/R16
  11. AlbatrossCafe
    I'm super jealous! The black hood vents are a nice touch
  12. AlbatrossCafe
    If I had to guess, I'd say 16" wheels with 0 offset and 225 width tires. The fitment is similar to my car which has that setup in the stock fenders, although mine is not quite as lowered.
  13. AlbatrossCafe
    Good point - updated the O.P. It is a 1982 stock L28ET with a 1978 280z 5-speed manual trans and rear diff in 3rd gear. According to this page, that puts my diff at 3.545 ratio and 3rd gear at 1.308. I asked him about doing it in 4th gear since that ratio is 1.0 (I thought all dyno runs should be done with a 1.0 ratio gear?) but we started in 3rd gear first for some reason. I think the plan was to move to 4th before my coolant line blew.
  14. AlbatrossCafe
    Wow, that is REALLY cool and a very unique color. I would be so nervous to take it anywhere though haha... after all that work, I'd hate for someone to bump into me or something.
  15. AlbatrossCafe
    Thanks for the part numbers! That helps a lot. I tried looking around at those diagrams but was lost. So you are saying there is another bypass in addition to the one I just blew out? I have a 1982 L28ET with a 1978 280z 5-speed trans and diff. The pulls were done in 3rd gear. Maybe if they were done in 4th gear they would read a little higher. As far as timing goes, I have no idea. I haven't configured anything.The swap was actually done in 2004 by the previous owner and I bought the car in fall of last year.
  16. AlbatrossCafe
    Thanks @ZHoob2004 that makes more sense. Of course, I could also just replace the T-fitting again with a proper bypass valve and make it work as it was intended on the ZX engines. If only I can find that part....
  17. AlbatrossCafe
    I was worried about something like this. Unfortunately I have read your comment like 15x but I am still confused... I mocked up a pic of how I think the coolant flows. Is this correct? (Red arrows are hot coolant flowing through the system, blue arrows are coolant after it has passed through the heater core). I guess I don't understand how the T-fitting is a thermostat and when it turns on. Here is the original pic if you can wanna draw something yourself to explain it better. Furthermore, are you saying if I remove this hose and turn the T-fitting into basically an elbow fitting (that doesn't connect to the back of the head) it will solve my problem?
  18. AlbatrossCafe
    Yeah, exactly. I barely know anything about this subject. Turbos and engine stuff is all new to me. I am getting a tune put on the megasquirt from user Chickenman I believe so ideally I'll not have to mess around with timing and whatever else barely if at all. I'm assuming the stock O2 sensor is not wideband? I was hoping that MS would pick that all up for me.
  19. AlbatrossCafe
    This was a baseline. In the next month, I plan to add the following: Megasquirt 2 with electronic boost controller Electric Rad fan Intercooler with 2.25" piping Blow-off valve 240sx 60mm throttle body Supra 440cc injectors Walbro 255 Fuel Pump MSA 2.5" downpipe 3" custom mandrel-bent exhaust with Aeroturbine 3030XL muffler Looks like I should probably add "inspection of all hoses and fittings" to the list haha!
  20. AlbatrossCafe
    Went to the Dyno today expecting to do 5 pulls and get a horsepower number. I am planning a significant amount of upgrades soon so I wanted a baseline. This place lets you run the car yourself on the dyno. I had never done something like this before, so my first run I stopped at 5500 RPM. The second run I went all the way to 6200 RPM. Better numbers, but we thought there was an air leak. Upon closer inspection, we saw coolant going everywhere! Apparently a weird old T-fitting on coolant lines had failed. It killed my dyno session. Luckily, the shop let me replace the T-fitting there myself using their equipment and I was able to head home. But not without this interesting dyno chart! This is a 99% stock L28ET. Swapped by previous owner around 2004. The only thing not stock is that the air intake is moved in front of the radiator and there is an oil cooler. Dyno Chart Peak Power: 148.86 hp at ~5700 RPM - MEGA POWER!!! Peak Torque: 161.37 ft/lbs at ~4400 RPM EDIT: Done with 1978 280z 5-speed transmission and rear diff in 3rd gear. I'm gonna be honest - I thought there was more power under there lol. But I'm not complaining! It certainly feels like it with how light this car is. But what the heck is with everything taking a dump @5k? Action Shots: Coolant Pouring!! The busted T-fitting - wtf is this thing? Fresh T-fitting Installed! My buddy who was nice enough to come by and help!
  21. AlbatrossCafe
    Haha cool, seems like we are in the exact same predicament... I was looking at that same ZCarDepot shroud and SPAL models as well. I hesitate to run without a shroud after everything I've read. Seems like even the nicest/best fans don't operate well without one. Too bad you aren't a little further along in your process, I'd like to see how everything fits before I take the $300 plunge on fans/shroud combo.
  22. AlbatrossCafe
    I just researched this for pretty much the last 5 days because I was also wondering about piping size with the goal of having low levels of turbo lag, easy routing, and horsepower. I also have a long-term goal of ~300hp. The consensus is that for that level of horsepower (and even slightly more) then 2.25" piping is more than sufficient. I ended up getting this pre-fabbed welded kit from Simtec here so that I didn't have to worry about piping lengths/bends/routing: http://simtecmotorsports.com/product/front-mount-intercooler-kit/ On that note, do you have any pics of your electric fan setup with intercooler piping? I need to add an electric fan to mine and am curious as to how it will fit with piping in there.
  23. AlbatrossCafe
    Yep... coilovers with hard top plate (no more pillow mount), poly bushings, and nylon at the tension rod lol. I have everything going against me. Makes more sense now, at least.
  24. AlbatrossCafe
    I was running 4k (224#) springs front and 5k (280#) rear. I just bought 3k (168#) to put on the front and move my 4k to the rear. I thought the stiffness was springs. I had no idea a concept like you mentioned with the tension rods even existed. If the softer spring rates don't fix my harsh ride over expansion joints, I'll definitely give your idea a shot next. Thanks. btw yes I know I am replying to a 16 year-old post lol
  25. AlbatrossCafe
    I am 100% NEWB when it comes to electrical. I am all about pre-made harnesses so this is great. My timeline to order is within the next 2 months. I have a few questions: Sorry, maybe I am illiterate, but is it $750 for just the harness? Do I need to have new injectors with this setup or can I use stock? Thanks.
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