twoeightythreez

2) the TPS is a 240sx one rigged to the stock 50mm throttle body, it goes from 0 - about 91 or so, my gas pedal needs some adjusting Don't try to adjust the gas pedal for more travel!! The reason it only goes to 91% is because your throttle linkage is worn and if you try to adjust the slop out of it you WILL end up with a runaway car at WOT (I know this from experience, luckily I was able to shut it off wiht the key and re-adjust the linkage back the wya it was...especially since stock Z brakes are NOT capable of stopping the torque from a boosted L28 at WOT on the boil in first gear...it overpowers the rear brakes and the front wheels lock and slide...scary stuff!) In fact your linkage is actually pretty tight compared to mine, I can only get 75% throttle form inside the car, unless I boot it, let up and BOOT it again. (in which case I can get up to 99% [actual throttle blade travel] for a few seconds...) If you want you can recal the TPS so it goes from 0-100% with existing gas pedal travel, this way if you boot it hard and actually get 100% throttle it will go to 109% and still calculate the required fuel. This is how mine is set up, inside the car, gradually pressing to the floor will give my 0-100% in megatune(but the throttle blade only opens 3/4 of the way), but under the hood I get 0-125% (since I can actually open the throttle all the way under the hood) I guess this really won't affect the driveablility of the car, but since the flood clear threshold is somewhere around 70% or so, I thought it would be prudent to fool MS into thinking the throttle is open all the way when it's pushed to the floor in the car (while cranking) so I can clear a flooded engine. (which actually happens often, I still have to calibrate my cold start mixtures, but until I fix the throttle problem the cold-starts will be difficult because the sloppy linkage means the throttle never returns to the same place when the throttle is released.) Anyone have any successes on fixing this without welding and such please enlighten me Please chime in and let me know if this is how I should be doing it or if I should calibrate the TPS using the full travel of the throttle blade itself and not the available travel from the gas pedal?

Hey I just had an idea... This happened on mine too when I was getting the MSII running...I had the internal pullup in the MS but I had no spark...try a 1.2K ohm resistor right in the wiring from the distributor. e.g. just install a resistor between the B/W 12vdc wire and the G/B pin 24 wire. If you carefully trim back the coating on the wire on the dist. side of the connector you can easily install a resistor between the 12v on the dist and the input for MS. Plus, once you heatshrink it all back together it looks untouched. As you asked:"Every time it clicked it read 4.2volts (should it be 12v?)."--it should...possibly you're powering the dizzy from a 5vdc output by mistake? This might cause it to work fine under no load but once it's loaded (e.g. the voltage drops due to the power required to crank the engine) the voltage drops too low to generate a signal?? (this is why I powered the dizzy directly from the MSII input power lead...no voltage differential between the MS and the distributor that way...as the power and ground for both are coming from the same place....) I also replaced the connector, as mine fell apart one day while troubleshooting (the connector is 20+ yrs old after all)...A 4-pole trailer connector (use the ones for the lights, not the exposed ground) is watertight and works great. Also, make sure the distributor body is grounded to the engine block, in addition to the ground in the connector, (the distributor itself should have a spade sticking out from the body for this very purpose...if not just put a ring terminal on one of the bolts that fasten the dizzy to the timing cover) and make sure all the grounds under the hood with the exception of the negative battery terminal,(which should be grounded to the engine block as well) terminate at the same place as the megasquirt. (I just tied all the underhood grounds...which go directly from the block to the - terminal of the battery...together at the DB37 and grounded them to the Megasquirt unit....and I also added a few body grounds directly to the negative terminal as well) Also...since you're using a relay board (I chose to utilize the datsun relays that were already there, with a slight rewiring of the fuel pump relay, instead of a relay board) make sure the relay board is also grounded to the engine block and the megasquirt unit. Adding more grounds from the body to the negative terminal is also a good idea...it's simply not possible to have too much ground, especially when concerning an ECU, which computes things based on voltage differentials. (Think of the car's body in a neg. grounded DC system [since electron flow is actually from negative to positive terminal in a battery] as a huge junction block for all the systems installed in it and you get the idea...you want as small a voltage differential from supply to ground as possible) Also try isolating the power supply from noise which might just be confusing the heck out of the ECU. I hope this helps and that your Z starts terrorizing the neighbors, and maybe your best part of you (your kid) will start soundly sleeping to the sound of an L-series revving Good luck! P.S.-sorry if I nuked this thread a bit....

I eventually want to try to get a megaview setup to play through my stereo. (A JVC with a 3" LCD screen!)...it has an A/V input so All I have to do is figure out how to get the realtime display (but with larger values and less of them) onto my Head unit.

I also noticed that on occasion when booted into Megatune if the connection is lost the engine will stop running. (and won't start again until I reset the MS)

Not to sound overly inquisitive, but you did verify that the distributor drive shaft is turning while cranking? (It's just the way you worded it...you turn the dizzy and get an input, put it all back together and no input???) I've never heard of one of these shearing the dizzy drive gear but it's still possible. (Though I'm betting it's not mechanical, but u never know)

-Plumb stock gas tank pickup for 1/2" line I just replaced all my fuel lines back there for the cross country Z trip I just did, and I'm quite postive that the stock EFI fuel pickup is 1/2". (or so) I used 1/2" line on it....the feed to the stock pump is HUGE...just the lines after the pump are tiny 5/16"....at least that's how my '78 is...

When I installed my turbo motor I decided to keep the canister for the same reason. (didn't want fuel fumes) The only problem was my I/C was in the way of where the Puke tank sat originally, so the puke tank is now mounted where the charcoal canister used to go. I then cut down the charcoal canister, removed the charcoal, so all that's left is the purge valve assembly, and put the rubber bottom back on the shortened canister. I then ziptied the canister to the A/C valve bracketry and it is nestled on top of the fuel filter. I eventually want to find a purge valve from a 240z and mount it in the same spot, so the fuel lines are untouched. I wonder if a one-way valve would accomplish the same feat? (keep vapor from escaping but allow air back into the tank as fuel is used) Plus, I noticed that fuel will run out of that purge line if the car is parked on a steep hill, so I had to keep the purge valve function active.

THey actually had a mythbusters for the "barrel of bricks" which was basically the same thing, they couldn't get the bottom of the barrel to break until they weakened it substancially.

Cmon, we need more Z's here in Allentown. It's within 90 miles of NYC, 60mi. of Philly, 2 hrs from OCMD and a bit more to VA beach, Housing is still decent (but went up a lot) but 300K can buy a lot of house here. We just landed a new AAA affilaite for the phillies and our crime rate is low (compared to Oakland) It's full of winding mountain roads, the area has a very rich history (in fact America was bascially built starting here), and diverse population. The only real drawbacks is that it gets cold in winter and hot in summer but spring and fall are the most beautiful months of the year. (WInter and summer are the price you pay to see such colorful autums and springs) There are major racetracks within 30 miles and the only bad thing I can think of is that the roads SUCK. (they're bumpy, too small, and congested, but that's mostly 22. If you're used to CA traffic it won't be a problem.)

It would make a lovely additional verse to the Deer Camp song Chorus: Oh it's the 2nd week of deer camp, all the boys are here we drink, play cards, and shoot the bull but never shoot no deer... The only time we leave the camp is when we go for beer... The second week of Deer Camp, is the greatest time of year! We're now getting thirsty, only 5 cases of beer, when Joe runs inside, says you won't believe your eyes, he says Grumpy got a buck, here he roped one and got drug right through his truck!! "Repeat chorus" Next line: We get down, make chase, as grumpy's pal is gone, The only things you see of him is tracks up and down the lawn, rocks pulled out and saplings laying astray, and screams in the distance announcing the melee! "repeat chorus" So now were driving at a high rate, becasue we need beer, this is time to celebrate, the last time someone got a buck was nineteen sixty eight! we round a bend and woudya know our luck.... there's grumpy's pal, and the buck became unstuck!!! Repeat chorus, end.

I'm recommending that to you also, because those were the last of the "real" datsuns. Simple, tough as nails, easy to work on and rear wheel drive. THe reason they were unloved was because they were simply nothing more than transportation. I think top speed was like 80mph out of a 60hp A14..but that's easily fixed! I think people don't realize that the 210 up till 1981 (superseded by the B11 sentra) was basically the same car that came out in 70 as the 1200...same motor, just enlarged, different bodywork but same concept. They even still had round headlights until 1981! I dont' think it would be too hard on a '79 to fit an early 1200 grille and some badges and fool some people. Here's a picture of one http://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:PgN8eAzU3keT6M:http://510garage.com/photos

My Z gets 30mpg highway. L28Et w/ms-II running 17.5:1 on cruise. (4.11 gears!) My vote goes for 200sx also. But if you can find one.....get a datsun 210. (or 80's 510.....they're dirt cheap!) Similar in size and appearance to a classic 510 for 1/4 the dough! (in fact if you modded the front end for quad round lights and took the crash bumpers off people probably wouldn't be able to tell.....esp. if it's a 79-80 with the small sidemarkers) Slugs with stock A15 or smaller but good gas mileage and put a KA in it for ultimate sleeper! They were rustbuckets but some still running around west coast...(shoot you could probably get one for literally a song there...everytime I went to the junkyard when I was in San Diego I saw three or four of them nothing wrong with them...datsun 210's are just UNLOVED cars but still fun to drive..U could fly out buy one and drive it back, they were so dang reliable the saying was Go 150K miles, re ring it , go 150k more......

Held camera and wheel in my left hand. Camera was steadied against the dash. (which is why when I hit 95-100 it starts shaking so bad, road is rough) Right hand was free for shifting. Phil...the link for the gauge website of which I was part of a pilot program (which only means that you pay less than I did for the gauges...and you don't wait as long since the tooling is made already) is http://www.speedhut.com You can select between 5 different colors, 5 different fonts, and can choose between reverse EL (like mine) or standard EL (numbers are black at night) You can also send them custom graphic to place on the faces, so you could have your gauges say "get in, sit down, shut up and hold on" if you wanted to. Yes, it comes with the ancilliary gauges and the clock face too. You have to modify the voltmeter gauge a mite but it's easy. (You have to trim the top for the voltmeter sweep and drill a hole...carefully...for the alternator light.) It won't affect the EL part. I suggest supergluing the faces down....they don't lay there nicely on thier own. Speedhut also sells a full line of gauges that you can get made to match your faces! (As you can see my AFR and Boost gauge match my speedo, tach, fuel gauge, temp gauge...etc.) I think they're 80 bucks for the set.

Try to find another stick shift suburban! Got her for 3200 cash (unfortunately this is why I have to sell the buick) WIll show that vid too, on ebay right now. Here's the sub Here's the buick (both vids)

Sweet...... Phil, your my Z hero. I bow down before you, seated next to the Z father, the mighty Chris. Here's my 7psi 0-100 run! It's 11 degree air, and if u turn it up you can hear the tires chirp into third and almost feel the clutch slip when I hit 5th...time for upgrade! I'm wondering...is it possible to get a custom HYDRAULIC grind for a P90A head? I like the hydraulics.

Dragonfly, Thanks again for shooting pics of my MS install before I got another camera! Is that still the Fiero Radiator and fan? Looks awesome! Oops...should have read entire post....de de de...for me!

Wow....I just realized when I turned the sound all the way up...I'm getting chirps when shifting to THIRD....(at 60mph)..I'm really impressed with this little L28ET!

Here's another video. 0-100mph in about 14 seconds. I mapped out approximately a quarter mile on Quebec St. The time was 0100 (GMT+7) The temperature was 17 degrees (though I later found out it was ELEVEN degrees...it was 17 deg. Fahrenheit 4 hours earlier..... I/C is working great......charge pipe to TB was still ice cold after the run.. still 7psi, and I had just driven back from showing the car off to my buddy who's into big V-8's (actually I am too but L28ET is still a grand motor) He was very impressed....his white knuckles told the whole story. I did try turning up boost for the heck of it but the T3 can only muster 11psi (keep in mind my boost gauge is plumbed to the manifold) with my huge I/C so time for an upgrade this summer! The run was done at 7psi (The efficiency is about right when it's there...even at 7psi it's struggling to provide enough air at 100mph so I believe 14's or so is all I'm getting from the stock T-3. ) Here's the video. Datman, thanks for the info! I'll check into it for sure! The clutch is slipping in 5th...the car was accelerating very quickly till I hit 5th.

I'm gonna take the Z out tonight, tune a bit more (It's 15 degrees!) This should be some fun. I'll take pics of those maps.

I'm probably gonna run into you guys' woes soon....it's still a 225mm centerforce stage II clutch I installed 3 years ago with the N/A motor on a fidanza flywheel! It lookd like NEW even after year's worth of daily driving and dragstrip passes...so I reused it. (one thing that a proper break in is absolutely IMPERATIVE is the clutch.....break them in wrong, change out before long) It's not slipping...yet! I don't think I'll be bolting slicks up to it anytime soon.....

Originally Posted by z-ya When you mount it in the thermostat housing, it is right below the thermostat. So the reading in MS should not only match your dash gauge, but it should also correlate to the thermostat opening temperature. It actually does correlate to thermostat opening temperature and MS. (if you subtract 10 degrees..as I measured a 10 deg difference between front and back of the engine) The stock dash gauge is accurate the way most are, you're either cold, normal, or hot, Z's just have numbers on them to appear sportier..... All I'm saying is I don't think it makes that much of a difference, except maybe for 'heat soak'. I mean it's probably better in the housing but I'm not gonna move mine now after I've lengthened my coolant temp sender wires to reach to the CHT location (I am using the CLT that came from the T-housing though)

I'm not disputing the reason to put it in the thermostat housing. I'm just saying there isn't that much of a difference to make it worth my while to either drill a hole and tap in my current housing or find another one,(the spot where teh CLT went in the '78 is "blank" on the P90 head I have.) as the indicated temp (on MS) is within a degree of the thermostat opening temperature. (Once it opens it does not take long for the coolant to circulate) I actually prefer where mine is because the coolant tends to be hottest at the back of the block. I have no problems with overheating, since I'm using the FIDLE output thru a relay to turn on a fan at 210 deg and off at 190. I'm running a 180 deg thermostat and the fan only runs when I'm idling or city driving. The temp at the back of the engine is about 10 deg higher than at the thermostat housing. (When I ahd the 190deg stat in the engine would routinely show 200deg at the back where CHT is) The stock temp gauge I'm not really worried about, it shows overheating and over cooling and that's about it. (I can be drivng down the road, with the MS indicating 190deg (through CHT) and that gauge, depending on how it feels, will be just about anywhere in between the two calibrations on it (120 and 250) so the gauge isn't accurate at all, but I didn't overheat idling for FOURTEEN hours so I think I'm alright I also didn't overheat when driving 85-90 mph for hours through west texas on my way home.

So is allentown, although people not from allentown (like realitors) try to say we have some sort of crime problem and it's not safe. It's just like any city, there are unsafe places but overall is nice place to live. I guess I'm not REALLY from allentown either (grew up near the now nonexistent Bethlehem Steel) but close enough.

I'm using the CHT in my '83 head (I think it's an 81 block) because the thermostat housing has no provision for the CLT sensor! (it's blocked off!) As far as I could tell if you take the CHT sensor out coolant comes out, I think it's in a water passage. I did use the old CLT sensor in the CHT spot as it's the same one. I don't have any driveablity probs and I drove cross-country, so I guess preference is the deciding factor. I do notice that my temp gauge can be around "140" on the gauge and around "210" on the gauge with the MS coolant temp moving between 180 and 197 but I think that's more a function of the inaccurate gauge. When I overheated it (idling and my 1st electric fan stopped working) the dash gauge and the MS both reported 240 deg. before I shut it off, so I guess it works well in either location.

Yes but it's only cold in the winter! It's mild in spring and fall and hot in summer. I was stationed in San Diego when not deployed but I actually moved back here on my own accord. (Z made a great cross-country GT car.. it's still a reliable old datsun through and through)...ironically I know people with 5 year old cars that wouldn't dream of going across country in them, and I just did in a 29-year old datsun. (and a 12yr old infiniti) The only problem on the whole trip was when I got stuck on the interstate (literally 45 miles from home, stuck in a travel lane with about 50-miles worth of other cars) overnight, and it fouled #5 plug from idling for 14 straight hours.