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About LooseRocks

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  1. Do you think you're less than six months away from needing them?
  2. In my '71, there's a ground wire in that part of the harness that's screwed into the chassis. I think it was meant to be used in conjunction with the green wire if you add an electric fuel pump.
  3. That green wire is pretty big. I would say it's probably at least 12AWG. Most modern pumps are pretty low current relative to their capabilities. A largish Aeromotive pump (SS Fuel Pump) is drawing <15A flowing 140GPH.
  4. I forgot about them. I love their design also. Do they have 5x114 with offsets that are suitable?
  5. The manufacturing process is reflected in the price. TE37-V are forged wheels and are made for racing applications (light + strong + expensive, ~$500 to $750 each). Grids are cast (heavy + less durable + inexpensive, ~$500 to $700 for a set) and probably should not be used for high-speed racing application. And while I say this, many people still do use them for exactly that. I think they're fine for street wheels. And in my eyes Rota has some of the more attractive offerings.
  6. They were a really inexpensive brand and are popular with many car enthusiast communities. BID, when I was into Subies, I remember seeing them crack in racing applications back in the early 2000's. To be fair they are very inexpensive and at the end of the day you do get what you pay for. I personally wouldn't use them in a racing application but if you're just cruising around and want a cheap set of wheels to make your ride look good they're not a bad option. For the price of a single TE37-V you can get an entire set of Grids.
  7. Fortunately or unfortunately, how ever you wish to view it, the Chinese industrial complex is fully capable of manufacturing world class quality products. The days of thinking that China only produces low quality stuff are over (or should be). If their competitors continue to take this tack, the Chinese will eat their lunches.
  8. The tiny bit of lip that those socket head screws hold on to in that T slot always bothered me about their design. It just seems like they needed to give you two plates with two holes in it for the bottom side. I would be tempted to put an 1/8" plate with a couple of holes there. Or some thick oversize washers for each of those screws. I always thought the T slot should at the very least be just two unconnected slots. I know they're trying to do a T and all but it would have been better/stronger if T was tow unconnected lines. Can you imagine if the placement of that front scr
  9. I would think that any transmission shop that's reputable would be able to do that type of work.
  10. For every car that I've ever played with the aftermarket has always been suspect. Even the reputable vendors will take some shortcuts. Parts don't fit and you need to grind/chop on them or grind/chop on the cart to make it work. I'm OK with that. I just wished they were all up front about it. I just want to understand the scope of the work before I start. I modified the cable to fit the car. A dremel with a cut off wheel is magic/tragic for fixing/destroying parts (and fingers).
  11. It sounds like his drum brakes are at the end of life (pads or drums or both) and he wants to go in a different direction. The T3 cables for the hand brakes will require some modification to make fit. The retaining collar on the T3 cables are different than the OEM. The part that sits in the body bracket (above the driveshaft/diff) on the OEM one is ~7/16" and the T3 one is ~9/16". You will have to either drill out the bracket to 9/16" or modify the cable (a few options here). Info is for '71.
  12. Is that color more green like the pictures with the driver's/passenger's door? Or is it more aqua like the smuggler's door?
  13. By that I take it the shop is doing the entire assembly of the short block then.
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