Metro

I think you would have to ditch the COP, afaik MSnS-extra and a v3 pcb can only drive 4. Here's a post in the MS forums with more info on what would be needed to run it, I just skimmed through it.

I really didn't want to mess with the CAS anymore so I welded up the mechanical advance on my 76 dizzy and used the VR inputs. Works great so far, I have a rpm signal and I get spark from the VB921 as well. Haven't worked on it much past that.

I went back and hooked up my Fluke 87 DMM and still didn't get anything. I tried DC, AC, and Hz, nothing. I also tried wiring a LED to it like you suggested, but again nothing. I never did like the CAS, so I'm already in the process of tearing apart my 76 dizzy to fix the mechanical advance. Looks like it will be fairly simple to adapt.

That was freakin sweet. Now here's a similar video, but the driver is slightly more insane as he's driving an open wheel F3000 racecar.

I can't seem to get a RPM signal with a '81 CAS, MSnS-extra and a v3 board. Also, when I have the ecu hooked up in the car with megatune, the RPM and PWM guages are white until the fuel pump shuts off, then they go red as if they're not connected. They don't turn white again unless turn the key to off and back to run, I'm not sure if that's normal or what. The car isn't fully wired up yet, so I'm not checking for spark or anything right now. I just want to see that the CAS is working with my setup. First off, I want to make sure I have the CAS wired up correctly. BW - 12volts (using the original wire for the coil to power it temporarily) GB - wired with a 1K resistor wired to tach (#24 on the DB37) B - ground GY - not used If I hook up a multimeter to GB, should I see some sort of signal? As it stands now, I don't see anything that looks like it could be a usable signal to the ecu. My car was having all sorts of weird problems before I decided to run MS (bad I idea, I know..) and I sort of suspected the CAS might be bad. Well, if that's all good, my next question has to do with the v3 board setup. I have it jumpered to use a hall/optical/points input. The other option is VR, which I can't see why I should enable that input. As far as I can tell the 81 CAS is a hall sensor with a transistor to modulate the reference voltage, which is why the optical 82-83 can be used with different ecus. I've read a few posts by Phyxius that the wiring is the same, so unless I have it wired wrong, I'm thinking the CAS is defective. If nobody can come up with anything, I think I might just go ahead and use my 76's VR distributor with the built in VR conditioner that comes with the v3 board.

My first thought was a bad connection too, so I checked for that. Maybe I wasn't clear before. I checked the power at the ecu (the BW wire which is after the FI relay) while it was running to see if there were any fluctuations and there were none. So as far as I can tell, the ecu is getting constant power like it should.

I've had nothing but problems lately. My new issue is the ecu appears to be turning on and off randomly. I just noticed it the other day and it appears to be the cause of my most recent problems. At least, I think the ecu is shutting off. The green LED flickers and the fuel pump relay turns off and on, then the engine stumbles. It's not like when the O2 sensor is up to temp, it's like when you first turn the key and the LED turns on, then off when the engine has started. My first thought was a bad connection to the ecu power. I watched the voltage to the ECU at the ECU's plug and there wasn't any change when the LED blinked and the FP relay turned on/off. I checked the voltage from the CAS to see if it was cutting out, and again, it looked steady. Just for the hell of it, I redid all the wiring under the dash, added a few extra grounds and still no dice. My thinking is, the ecu thinks the car is stalling so it shuts down, then starting up again instantaneously. Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this? Unfortunately I don't have the FSM for this year, so I can't diagnose this any better myself. I've previously checked the AFM, TPS, CHTS like the haynes manual says and they all are fine. I also have new injectors, new cap, new rotor, new plugs, and new wires. This is just about my last resort on fixing this. The car has been down for a month now due to mysterious problems and is continually getting worse. My next step is to trash the factory EFI and go ahead with my plans to run megasquirt, which is what I've wanted to do since day one, but I was hoping I could get the factory efi working. I know the engine is sound mechanically, so I think I might just go ahead and switch. But if anyone has any ideas, I'll try them.

I do the same thing, I knew it was on 3, go, but every time I saw it I thought onEgo. LMAO j00 g0t ur a55 pWn3d!!!!!!!11

I've tried everything I can think of, everything crappy haynes manual says and everything my Dad(mechanic, but diesel generators mostly) can think of. So like power to the coil, power when cranking, resistance of the coil, multiple grounds to the coil, different plug wires, haven't tried a new coil yet though. But now it's looking maybe it's not ignition related. When I was playing with it today, I had all the injector plugs disconnected and the damn thing fired for a few seconds. So hooked the injectors back up and pulled a vacuum line, played with it and was able to get the car running after giving it a small leak. It will even rev up. When my 76 had bad injectors and was dripping fuel, I couldn't get it rev over 2000rpm without it dying. This ecu/motor is driving me freaking crazy for months now. Fuel pressure is good, injectors are new. Even if I got it running again, it ran horrible before it flat out died the other day. I just don't get it, but for those 2 weeks back in July it was awesome :|

Hmm, I didn't know Gilles coined the phrase "Finishing second means you are the first person to lose", but google seems to tell me he did. Seems fitting, coming from him.

I've been having problems with my motor for a few weeks now, miss at idle, stumble around 2000-2700rpm, won't rev up when it's cold, etc. Now the other day when I was reving it and listening to the motor is just slowly died and won't restart. I have a fuel pressure gauge, so I know fuel is good. I believe there's something wrong with the ignition. I have spark, but it looks weak - it's also reddish/white spark. If I do a spark test with a plug, it looks inconsistent and weak. Coil is getting 12volts when cranking, so I don't see a problem there. Today I bought a new rotor and cap and I'm using the good plug wires from my N/A L28, but still no good. I did some research tonight and it sounds like it might be a bad transistor (ignitor). Does this sound like anything anyone has come across before?

I have a BRE spoiler and a new hatch seal and I don't smell anything. The taillight seals are original and falling apart. I never did patch the bolt holes inside the car when I removed the 280z bumper shocks, so you'd think I would get exhaust coming in from that, but not at all. If I have the a window down, when I come to a stop, I occasionally smell exhaust, but hardly ever. No tip on my muffler, just sticks out about 1-2" from the body. I wasn't able to really drive my car until after I did all that stuff, so dunno if I had a problem to begin with.

Ok, I think I've solved the majority of my problems. I still have a rough idle, but not nearly as bad as before. I can live with that. I'm not actually sure what fixed it, but yesterday I aligned the CAS, adjusted the valves, and replaced the fuel filter at the tank. It was after I replaced the fuel filter I noticed the clip was off the #3 injector. So it could be anyone one of those three things that did it. I'm still looking into getting a 82 dizzy just in case though. If anything, it will make megasquirt a little easier in the future. Is $150 a decent price for one?

No EGR valve, no vacuum leaks, went over the manifold with a hose, couldn't hear anything suspect. I cleaned the plugs last night and that helped a tiny bit. But as far as I can tell, something is wrong with the ignition. When the motor is cold, the timing is at 10° and runs awful. When it warms up a bit, it goes to around 35° idles better, but can't rev up. THen 10-15 minutes later, it will drop to 25 and run decent. When it's running ok, the green LED on the ecu is on, doesn't flicker, just on steady. No matter what I try to change the timing, it's set. Messing with the CAS adjustment and even rotating the dizzy does nothing. So, what should I start replacing: O2 sensor, HTS(I tested it and it appears fine), forget what else can affect the timing/ecu. Well, back to the archives I go.

Congrats, it felt great when I got my N/A motor running and even better when I got the turbo motor running.

Ok, I finished my swap about a month ago. Car was running great, sounded great and I was having a lot of fun. Now I just want to shove a stick of dynamite in the motor. Setup: Stock '81 L28et in a 1976 280z ~ 5psi JSK fuel rail Stocker fuel pump since I had loads of problems with my walbro pump Aeromotive RFPFR set to 37psi and the vacuum line isn't hooked up. N42 instake manifold w/ no air regulator. 1G DSM BOV - recirculating New NGK bpr6es plugs - factory gap, I forget it atm MSA downpipe into ghetto 3" mandrel exhaust. Last week the car had been running rough at idle, but drove fine. Just seemed like it kept getting worse. Meanwhile I had several leaking (on the manifold) injectors, so I replaced them. After reading up on possible causes, I realized the start signal was wired wrong - it was going to a constant 12volt signal. So sometime around disconnecting that and replacing the injectors it all went to hell. It will barely start now and idles extremely rough. It's missing real bad, but I can't tell which cylinder(s) is doing it. When I press down on the throttle hard, it causes the motor to die and backfire a little in the intake, which makes me think it's running rich or the timing is bonkers. The plugs are black and sooty, but no worse than when I checked them before. Weird thing is, once it has warmed up it will idle much, much, better. Almost to where it's driveable. I was watching it today and it was like a switch was flicked, all of a sudden it was running much better. I don't know if it was switching modes or what.. I've also never seen the green LED turn on, ever, but then I didn't know my ecu had it until a week ago. As for the timing, I can't get a good signal to check. No matter what plug I hook it up to, it's very sporadic. I checked the cap and cleaned the contacts, but that didn't do anything. When I can get a signal, it looks like the timing is around 23-25° at idle. I test fired the injectors and the pattern looked consistent between all six, no problems there. Double checked all the connections and wiring to coil and swapped coils. AFM is mounted sideways, but opens and closes just fine. Kinda rambling on here, but if anyone can think of anything else I should check, please let me know.

It's mounted horizontally, stock was horizontal too, but higher up.

Like I had suspected, they were in fact all welded wrong (all 40 of them). Sound like they just assumed it would fit one way.. So anyway, they had the manufacturer make me a fixed one and had it shipped to me yesterday. So everything's gravy, my exhaust and car will be finally done this weekend

If you search, there was a thread about a year ago with lots of pictures. Not all images work now, but there's still a lot to see, along with everyone's size and setup.

It gets even better, looking at the pictures on the website tells me they never even put these on a working car. The ones shown on their site are upside down as well. Well I said I'd be the lemming, just too bad, I was trying to get this all wrapped up this weekend.

Little bit of a problem here. The flange was welded on upside down. Now, that'd be great if this motor was in a boat, but that doesn't work so well in a car. You know, things with a hood. Wonder what MSA will do about it..

Fake, but pretty damn funny

When the flange was welded on, it wasn't on straight - it's angled forward a little bit. So there's a 1/16th chunk of the exhaust pipe metal hanging out past where the flange bolts up. Probably not like that on all of them, but mine was. I don't have a 280zx, but I was pretty skeptical of it fitting in one. The way it curves and follows the shape of the transmission, it looks like it would be fine. Now, whether or not you could use the O2 sensor is another thing, it looks like it'd be a tight fit. For all you guys making it and saying you could do it for like$50 - are you using stainless or just mild steel? Everywhere I looked, the cheapest I could get the stainless would be about $120 for the bends and straight pipe.

Yeah the FRP is hooked up correctly, I made sure it was put in the correct place. Well, since I've posted this I've put the old one back in and not had a single problem. It's mounted in the same place with the same lines, so either there's something wrong with the walbro or it moves a lot more volume than the other pump.