Metro

Those look like they're made from the same crappy mold as well.

1976 280z L28, 5speed, 17x8", 17x9" ROH Snypers, fiiberglass bumpers, coilovers, aftermarket seats, full interior, 4 gallons of gas, bondo - lots of it 2560lbs

Ahh brings back memories, even has the same wheels too. But I didn't have to worry about any rust

Thanks, it looks nice in pictures, but my paint job is a "20 footer" in real life. I started on the body first because it was a beater, now time for the motor!

After spending the last week doing a lot of research on the 1jz, the worst thing about it is the twin turbos. Which IMO makes is what makes it a cool swap. They're small and can't handle much boost until they break. If you want to go for a large single turbo, expect to pay $800-1300 just for a manifold. If you want to make the most out of the twins, you need to make a bigger Y-pipe between the turbos - or even better would be to make them seperate and merge into eachother farther down. From what I've read, the max you can expect out of that is around 350-375rwhp. I'm on the fence now, both are good motors after a few changes. If I could find a complete 7m-gte around here for less than $1200, I'd probably go for that.

I used the mcmaster weatherstripping that people have suggested and I didn't have any problems with closing my doors. That is, until I put the door panels on, that 1/4" was just enough to hit my driver side seat. doh.

That DUI one is from a tv show called Reno911 on Comedy Central, still funny though.

lol, sounds like the 1jz-gte might start going up in price if everyone here is after them.

I'm thinking the same thing you are. I've pretty much ruled out the RBs because the price has been inflated by everyone doing the 240sx swap. $2500+ for a rb25det? no thanks. From what I've read on this site, 450hp on the l28et is asking a lot, while it seems to be common for the other motors to do that and more. I've read a lot of good things about the 7m-gte (take Clifton's Z for example) but it has issues. One of the probs with that motor is that the engine has a notoriously bad headgasket design. So most people get the block machined so they can use a metal headgasket. From what I've read on supra forums, there's also a problem with rod knock, so take that into consideration as well. Also, I think past 300-350hp you have also have to go piggy-back fuel system which gets messy. Meqasquirt is an option, but there's not many ppl running it and since the motor uses coilpacks and no dizzy, that gets kind of messy as well. I don't know much about any other management systems because they're $$. Recently I've been looking into the 1jz-gte, which runs around $1200-1600 for a complete engine and makes around 280hp stock on 2 small twins. I haven't come across many downsides to this motor and it's really starting to sound good. But I haven't done extensive research yet. So as it stands now for me, I'm leaning towards the 1jz-gte because it matches my goals.

I've placed at least three orders with them through their website and haven't had any problems yet. They always called me up the next day to see what I ordered was correct. I think all three times I dealt with the same guy, so maybe I just got lucky. I dunno.

Two in, one out, and the little one is for vacuum.

What, no gigantic glue on hood scoop?

That thing is creepy as hell. It's from some story and there's more pictures of it out there if you can find the site.

Stupid people, I love 'em. For the rest of the firefox users

Nice pull! Damn, I've been researching doing a 7mgte swap and it's sounding better and better, aside from BHG problems.

If the links don't work, copy and paste them into a new window.

I'm not great at guessing weights, but I'd say they're around 3-4lbs, the rear is pretty flimsy too.

Clear lenses aren't my thing, but MSA is selling some clear lenses now. I remember seeing clear side markers lenses in their little catalog they sent out recently. I don't remember if they had any other lenses though.

We meet again, eh?

The F4 has to be the best looking jet fighter that the US made, it just looks mean.

Since someone brought this thread back from the dead, might as well post my wheels: This picture was before I adjusted the coilovers. more more ROH Snypers, 4x114.3 17x8 - 245/45/17 17x9 - 275/40/17 No adapters, I was part of a group-buy with some MKII supra guys, it took forever to get them. The GB started last January and I got the wheels this December. 5" BS (was suppose to be 4" I think..) and +17mm offset all around and ROH bored the centercaps wrong. The big caps that stick out are in the rear and the little ones are in the front. But they won't fix them because they screwed up on over 30 sets of wheels

I was part of a group buy for wheels over at http://www.celicasupra.com which is mostly MKII guys. They seem like a really nice bunch of people but even with the old supras, they still attract some of the people you guys are talking about.

That was the page people were talking about, but I couldn't find a link for it, thanks. I was out looking at it all tonight and I think I'll cut into the top and just cut the flat part off around the edges so it doesn't look like something is missing, except for the rear. I think I'll have to blend the back bottom part of that in because the flare doesn't go all the way down.

To better explain, what I'm wondering is, how far around should I cut? Do you only cut the top part of the fender (the blue oval) or do you cut all the way around like to the red oval. If you only cut the top, how do you blend it in?

I have ZG flares on my car with 17x9 275's in the rear. Since I'm going to repaint my car, time to cut the fenders. I was wondering if anyone had pictures of the fender lip after it had been cut. I know how and where I'm suppose to cut and weld (thanks to blueovalz), but I was just wondering if anyone had some pictures of the process. I think some people have posted pictures before, but I can't seem to find them. Thanks!