Metro

Been a while since I posted here, years actually, but I came across this and thought you guys would get a kick out of it http://jalopnik.com/5583801/engine-swap-heroes-datsun-280zx-turbo-engine-in-pontiac-firebird L28et into a firebird. The race is going on right now, so not sure how it'll fare, but pretty funny swap.

Long story short, I bought the wrong muffler when I did the turbo swap. I got a dynomax super turbo when I was suppose to get an ultra flo.. anywho, I've finally got around to getting a better muffler, but I got a round borla xr-1 and I think it sounds awesome. I haven't had a chance to drive it, so I can't tell ya if it drones or anything, but at idle and revving = money. To me it sounds exactly like an L28et with an open exhaust, except a little quieter plus a nice snarl when decelerating. If anyone is interested in a video of a super turbo on a L28et, I have a video of that too

Well with the other HEI module, it does work considerably better. It still will "tick" ocasionally and after reving it up and letting off the gas it goes bonkers as the motor slows down. So it's usable, but it's not where I'd be happy with it. I think I might try using the VB921 for spark again. The first time I attempted to hook it up, I was horrible at reading wiring diagrams, now I should do ok. So we'll see..

Well it definitely has good cooling now, but before I bolted it to a massive heatsink it definitely got hot enough to burn flesh if you touched it. Fortunately, I have a spare module I can try. Thanks

Ok well, I redid the tach output connecting to a proper 12 volt source (used the outside pin on the voltage regulator). The tach needle actually moves again, so there's some progress. The bad news is, it looks like there's some sort of interference because the tach will jump around randomly and then go nuts over 3 or 4,000 rpm. I'm not really sure where to begin troubleshooting this, so does anyone have any ideas? Another thing I noticed, the car misses when the tach jumps around so it's definitely affecting performance as well. The rpm readout in MS is perfect tho, only fluctuates because of the slight miss.

Well, it looks like my best option at this point is to try the tach output again. I think where I went wrong was confusing s12c and s12 for the 12volt source. I'm not sure what's the difference between those two but obviously it wasn't right. That being said, do you know if there's a connect x to y, guide for doing this? I'm not all that great about reading diagrams.

Forgot to mention, I've tried setting up the tach out, but it usually ends with me breaking megasquirt and having to replace a bunch of diodes.

It's been a while since I've posted, I had to stop messing with the car because I was getting burnt out trying to fix all the various problems.. Anyway, ever since I've started using megasquirt, I've had problems getting the in dash tach in my Z to work correctly. Originally, it would work up until 3500-4000rpms then it would go crazy jumping all around. A few months later it stopped working entirely. Thinking I killed the tach, I bought another one and it didn't work either. So... I must be doing something wrong. My setup: 1976 280z MSnS-extra 29q2 on a v3 board (it's been a while.. I think that's correct) 4pin GM HEI doing spark The tach wire is coming directly to the negative side of the coil going directly to the tach quick connect under the dash. I had tried using the resistor that came with the 280zx turbo, but it doesn't make a difference. I've tried various different sized resistors between the coil negative and the tach and it's all the same - nothing. I tried hooking up an autometer tach and it would work under 4000rpm, but when the HEI module got warm, the tach would go crazy bouncing all over no matter what rpm. I should note, I have the HEI module bolted to a gigantic aluminum heat sink that was used for a voltage regulator so it doesn't get that hot. Am I missing something? I really would like to get my tach working before the drag strip opens this spring. Sigh..

It looks like you're going the EDIS route, but you could use your current distributor if you wanted. You just need to disconnect the vacuum advance and lock the mechincal advance by welding the arms so they don't move.

When you first upgrade MS to MSnS you have to short out the boot jumper when you go to reflash the firmware. You'll have to open up the case and place a wire or resistor, anything to connect the two holes on the boot jumper. It's located right next to the processor, above the test area on the v3 PCB.

According the megasquirt, the highest temp my car sees is 210 after I've been flogging the turbo. Just cruising and at a stop, it's 185-190 degrees which correlates to about straight up on the in dash gauge. I don't have a fan shroud and the thermostat is probably stock.

Oh yeah, I also asked a local junkyard to search for one. They had a L28et in another yard, but it was $1100 for the motor, not including wiring or tranny. So I was looking into getting a 1jz-gte clip for only a few hundred more. Fortunately I found that 280zx which ended up saving me a lot of money for goodies

There's hardly any Z's around here too. I watched the local papers for about a year before I saw ANY ads for a 280zx turbo. It just so happened to be a junker for $400 with a pristine motor. So it can happen, you'll just have to be extremely patient..

You don't need the addon flyback board like with v2.2 because it's built into the v3 circuitry already (if you opted for the parts). High impedance injectors don't need pulse width modulation - they need full power, so you would set it to 100% and pwm time threshold to 25.4ms. If you run at 100% with low impedance injectors and no resistors, you will fry your injectors. From the MS manual:

I would definitely spend a little more and get the v3. It's a better design and it has just about every feature built in. The 2.2 will work just fine, but you'll have to buy a few extra things to run the VB921 (MS's ignition module). You said you only have 8x8 spark tables? You must be using MSnS, get MSnS-Extra installed. It has multiple 12x12 fuel and spark tables.

It's my understanding that you can use MSII or v2.2 or v3 boards. The MS site has installation instructions and notes for MSII with both versions. Most of my confusion when I put together my v3 board, was that the instructions where for installing things that only work with MSII and not MSnS-extra.

My injector driver #1 doesn't work for some reason (signal is fine, but when it's hooked up to injectors, it does nothing) and I haven't got around to fixing it. All six injectors are running off driver #2. Also I should note that since I'm using the v3, it has a built in flyback board for PWM. I'm not using a resistor pack for the injectors like in the guide. So if you are using resistors with low impedance injectors, set the PWM current limit to 100%. Don't take these settings as the gospel, but it will get your car running pretty well, then you should tune from there. For example, the warmup hasn't been tuned. If your motor is colder than 70°F, it probably will take a few tries to get it running. It also runs rich under cruising, around 13:1 Hopefully in the next week or two, I'll be able to post a wideband tuned msq/pics for 29q2 which uses the latest version of Megatune and MSnS-extra.

The pop off valve is just to protect your motor from running too much boost. For example, if your wastegate actuator doesn't work - goes "crazy", the turbo will continue to spool and build pressure. Too much boost, not enough fuel will cause your motor to run lean and possibly blow a piston or worse. I'm not sure what the POV would have to do with "engine compression", as you said, it's merely a safety device. It doesn't control how much boost your run, that's controlled by your wastegate. I don't run a pop off valve, I really don't think many people do either. Don't confuse it with a blow off valve, though. Hmm, I feel like I have deja-vu, I think there was a thread about this recently..

You can run up to 12 injectors (or is it 16?) off each driver, so yes. I have a problem with my driver #1, so I've been using #2 to run all of my injectors.

I just did this the other day, but I can't find the post on MS's forums for the exact instructions. But basically what you will need to do is: 1. use LM programmer to program one of the analog outputs to do 0-5 volts, 10-20 afr. So 0 volts = 10:1, 5 volts = 20:1. 2. install a 440 ohm resistor between the analog output you're using and MS. 3. use the configurator to change the O2 sensor for your car's profile to the innovative 0-5volt 10-20 sensor. 4. Select wideband from the exhaust gas settings when running MS That should be all you need to do. If the gauge is still acting weird, check it when innovative's data logger app to see what it's reading. If you don't see a reasonable AFR from that, then you have problems elsewhere.

Well I'm leaning towards my tach being fried. I borrowed an autometer tach from my dad last night and it would read the signal just fine. Of course the autometer worked fine with and without the resistor, hmm.

I'm not really sure if this is a megasquirt problem (as in my wiring) or a bad tach. I have a 76 280z with the stock tach and ever since I've installed megasquirt the tach is goes crazy over 3,000 rpms. Sounds a lot like this, but the car runs great and MS records the correct RPM. I have a wire connected to the negative side of the coil through the resistor from the old L28et wiring and out into my tach. My ignition setup: MSnS-extra running on a v3 hardware 76 VR distributor GM 4pin HEI module triggered by LED17(or 14, I forget which is which). So is my tach fried, is it wired incorrectly, or do I not have a big enough resistor for the new setup?

Here's some more info: It's really hard to test the output if you don't have a LED. But you can test if you're experienceing the same problem as I did. Disconnect the 5volts and then turn on the car and see if you still get a voltage reading. If you do, you'll need to switch over to use D14. You only need one resistor - a 1k ohm. I scavenged for it in an old dvd player, I'm sure rat shack would have them. For a v3 (what I did): For a v2.2 (written by mobythevan, it would seem) But instead of IAC1A or X11, connect to PIN 35 or pretty much any unsed output you'd like. I don't remember what is the negative side of the LED, but just connect a battery to it to find out. Then in MSnS under setup change FIDLE to idle control and then set LED17 to Spark Output.

Those look exactly the same as mine, even the way the 2nd one down on the right goes kinda flat near the bolt cutout and looks misshapen. I guess having JDM in the title is worth $18.26.