Metro

Hmm yeah, sounds like it was moisture trapped under the paint. Great document too, lots of information.

Looks like I'm going to have to repaint my Z, not such a bad idea because it was the first time I've painted a car and I've learned a ton in these last few months. Really sucks, but oh well, I like to learn the hard way. I painted my car back in June and since about November I've noticed that it has "goosebumps". I had wetsanded and buffed it a few months prior, so it's not orange peel or anything like that. It was glassy and smooth before. Some pics here and here - look in the flash. My theory is, since I painted it in June when it was very hot and humid, I think there might have been moisture trapped in the paint. I first noticed the bumps after the temperature dipped below 32°, that's why I feel the goosebumps were caused by the moisture freezing and expanding. But when I picked at one of the bumps and it didn't looks like there was anything under it causing it, all I saw was primer. I've read that something like this can be caused by body filler being painted too soon or being applied too thick. That's not the case for me, because this is occurring in many places where there wasn't any filler used. This is all probably due to my sloppy prep but I'd like to know for sure. Has this happened to anyone before?

I had the exact same problem as you, but I solved it with new SS brake lines. Did you replace the rear brake lines too? As for adjusting, there is a small hole on the face of the drum. Rotate it so the hole is over the left-bottom section and look around with a flash light until you see a cylinder with notches. Get a screw driver and move the adjuster until the wheels stop spinning freely, but you can still move them by hand. This will also make your parking brake handle not go back as far because it needs less distance to expand to the drum.

I'm interested in the downpipe if you do decide to sell everything seperately.

The 280z shares the same general body and chasis as the 240z and 260z but with a larger motor. The 280z was sold between 1975 and 1978 in the US. The 280zx is a totally different car, sold from 1979-1983. Both the 280z and the 280zx offered 2+2 models.

Get out the fiberglass and make your own because there's only a handful of body kits out there. As for just airdams, there's quite a few. Motorsport auto carries just about all the airdams you can get. Victoria British carries some Wing's West airdams, but IMO they look nearly identical to the Xenon airdams that MSA has. I have the urethane Xenon airdamn that a lot of people use. I'm sure someone can post a link to the 240sx kit, but I doubt it will fit without serious modification. That car looks like it's much wider than a Z.

Look at the sticky in the high tech forum

I just got my wheels in today: ROH Snypers, 4x114.3 17x8 front 17x9 (10" lip tp lip) They were suppose to be 4" BS with +17mm offset, actual measurement is 5.6" in the rear. I have coilovers and there's about 1/4 between the strut tube and the wheel I haven't cut my fender lip yet (not sure if I'll have to), but the lip of the rim is right at the edge.

Remember, the more backspacing you have, the farther it will move the wheel to the outside. You're probably ok with 8" wide wheels, but there might be issues with the wheel rubbing on the fender lip.

The photo you linked too looks like it's custom and poundz9oh9 has the MSA fiberglass airdamn w/ integrated bumper.

why not just run a sql query to update all the user profiles with it? UPDATE phpbb_users SET user_dateformat='D M d, Y g:i a' WHERE user_dateformat = 'whatever the old one was' I used n/d/y g:ia -> 11/08/04 8:11pm

Yeah.. I got some from classic datsun about 6 months ago, never put them on the car until recently. The finish of the flares is good - they didn't need much sanding before I painted them black. But the 2 front and the 2 rear don't match, they all look different and they were a bitch to bolt on. VW fender welting is a must have

Obligatory Ratsun link, and you're going to have to do a lot of work to fit it in there.

I hope you people don't watch the "tricked out" english dub of Initial D...

That looks really nice. For all the lights on my car, I used a buffing wheel on a bench grinder and plain old wax metal/plastic polish. Only took a few minutes to polish one light, dunno if it'll hold up, but it worked for me.

that's a crazy motor and http://www.needsmoarcowbell.com/

s30 - 240z - 1970-73 s30 - 260z - 1974 s30 - 280z - 1975-78 s130 - 280zx - 1979-83 A lot of people who are new get the 280z confused with the later model 280zx. The 280z looks a lot like a 240z, but with the big metal bumpers and a few other changes. The 280zx is a later model which is vastly different. You could put a 240z bumper on a 280zx, but it would be a lot of work, if it even fits.

I recently ordered the OEM windsheild gasket and whatever VB sells for the hatch. I wanted to try to install it myself since I've done everything else on this car and that's the way I am. But it's looking like I'll have someone install it for me. One problem is, when you start working one side of the glass in, the other gasket on the opposite side comes off. Maybe I just don't know what I'm doing (well, I don't ) and someone can give good instructions.

Oh man, I saw a '69 Opel GT with a 302 SBF at the drags last week. Such a nice looking car, like a mini ferrari but it only ran mid 13's

You might want to try Diamond Racing Wheels. They're pretty cheap and they'll make them in any size/bolt pattern/offset. I haven't bought any wheels from them, but I did contact them a few months back, they seemed nice enough. I found out about them from this board a while back, maybe someone who's bought some can chime in.

Didn't even know there was a meet up at Shasta. My Z will be done for sure by next year, maybe I'll come on down then.

I've never driven a ZX (I've barely even driven my Z ), but they're growing on me. I used to think they were ugly, but 80LT1's ZX is a great example of how just a few changes can really make a difference.

Yeah, the first time I tried to repaint it, it had only been a week or so since I sprayed the clear. I was thinking it might be that. Thanks for the info.

Recently I painted my car, maybe the fumes where getting to me, but I really screwed up when I sprayed the clearcoat for the hood so I needed to repaint it. I'm using basecoat/clearcoat. Now I may be completely wrong here, but as I understand it, all I needed to do was scuff the paint and respray the base coat. I used my DA sander with 180grit followed by 400grit to do that. But within seconds after I layed down a pass with the basecoat, it did this: It's kind of hard to tell, but the paint raises up and creates ridges. It's actually kind of cool looking, but not at all what I want Did I do something wrong? It's really looking that way. Well, I think I'll sand it down to primer and start from scratch but I would like to know why it's doing this.

I've been wondering myself, great picture Terry.