Metro

One note, if you have a v3 board, it has a built in VR conditioner so you don't need a HEI module to amplify the signal. The VR distirbutor can be directly wired to MS. I'm using this setup with my 76's distributor.

The v3 pcb has practically all the features you would need built in and a better layout with a heatsink to make it more reliable. I would recommend getting that one even though it will cost a bit more than the v2.2. Also, I would recommend just getting MS I. Mainly because you can't run Megasquirt n Spark on the MSII processor. If you're putting this on a chevy v8, MSII has some benefits, but lacks a lot of the features that MSnS offers.

I've said it before, but I really didn't like the 280zx until I saw some of the cars on this site. When I bought my 280zx parts car, I had a chance to drive it around a bit and it was a hell of a lot more comfortable than my 280z, but felt like a dog even with the turbo. I wouldn't mind having a '89 300zxt either, I've seen a couple of really nices ones.

I got my wheels last year through a MKII supra group buy which was setup by a distributor over here. These are cast so it might be a little different, but they wanted 20 or 25 sets minimum to make and ship them to the US. They screwed up the specs and took forever to get them shipped, but for the price, I couldn't complain too much.

1) Their website says that units come with a 3.0 bar map sensor standard (from RS-Autosport). Anybody know why this is different than the ones from DIYAutotune.com that come with a 2.5 bar sensor standard (they are both from B&G)? The standard B&G sensor is 2.5, but I think there is a very similiar MAP that is 3, I guess they supply those with their systems. 3) I'm planning on buying the IAT and CTS sensors off of the website. Are they reasonably priced ($20 a piece)? You could probably get the IAT cheaper with the wire from a junkyard. You can use your stock water temperature sensor or cylinder head temperature sensor and just adjust the ranges with easytherm as in moby's sticky. 4) Do I need the tach input to be "Hall/Opto" or "VR"??? That part is very confusing to me. You'll want optical, I would think. I would imagine their kits have both installed, but you pick which is jumpered by default. If you do go with a VR, you'll have to unsolder a few things. 7) Is there a FIdle solonoid on the Z??? I can't find anything on how to hook this up in the old posts. Use your stock air regulator if you want idle control, it's in moby's sticky.

I'm still learning all this, but I don't think you'll have a problem with a high trigger angle. From what I've read, the problem is when you have a low trigger angle like 30-50. Having a low number like that affects your maxium advance you can run, like to only 20-40 degrees. With my VR distributor, I run 70+22.5, 92.5 to get an accurate light.

Yeah, I went off the dwell settings moby posted for a v8 in some other thread, and no go.

I would imagine the AT transmissions are the same or just about the same between the years seeing how you can swap all the MT transmissions around. I don't think there would be a problem, but then I've nevered tried to do it.

I've never been able to open anyone's MSNS-extra .msq files. I've installed all the correct versions of megatune and the correct msns-extra.ini. I think it would be easier if you took screenshots of each page. Hold down alt+print screen and then paste that into paint or any other image app to make images.

Well, I connected pin #15 to a ground and it didn't do anything different. I would be interested to know if anyone else got theirs working now too. So I bought a brand new HEI module and it sparks great again. I'm not sure if I killed the other old-used HEI module or what.

I don't think it's normal. When I turn mine on, I get a quick blip from the injector LED showing the ecu firing the priming pulse and that's it.

I'm down for 1 front, 1 rear

If your MS is wired up without using any of the LEDs to drive spark, D17 is injector pulse. The initial flash is the priming pulse. If you don't have a fuel map setup, I don't think MS will fire the injectors at all - so no flash. Just load up the default v8 setup, it should flash when cranking. What midnightzxt suggested is that you blip the throttle when it's cranking. The middle light is accel enrichment and it should turn on/off quickly. But if you can't connect to the ecu, this is all pointless, you really need to solve that first. You might think it's wired correctly, but who knows if you can't see what the sensors are reading.

Well, I couldn't get it to work well, but I just noticed I didn't have a wire hooked up to pin #15 like it shows on the MSnS-e setup page. It's only an extra ground, so I'm not sure if that made a difference or not. I think I'll try using the vb921 again since I'm having trouble getting a spark with the HEI module now

6 weeks? I had to wait 8 months for my ROH wheels Those will look great with ZG flares, but you could probably run more rubber if you wanted. I have 245/45 on 8" and 275/40 on a 9" wheels.

1. VR = variable reluctor, it's a type of distributor like points(old), hall effect, and optical. 2. see http://www.megasquirt.info/v22manual/minj.htm

Very simple test, take out a ruler and measure it - 60mm is about 2 3/8 inches. I haven't measured it, but I was a bit surprised to see that my N/A tb has a larger inside diameter than the turbo. If I remember right, the turbo TB has a inside diameter of 50mm.

I had a '81zxt and I couldn't get it to work (probably bad CAS) so I'm using the '76 VR distributor from my old motor, so far so good. The turbo distributor is keyed opposite of the N/A so I just flipped the cap so #1 is to the inside. I also am using v3 pcb which can take a VR input for the tach, not sure which you have. So far so good, I used a trigger angle of 70+22.5 and it fired up last night.

I'm in the progress of setting up a v3 board so I'll chime in. - it has driver for coil so I won't need an HEI module Yes it has a coil driver (VB921 dumb ignitor), but I couldn't get it to work. I could barely get a spark out of it. My dad had a few HEI modules laying around, so I went with the GM HEI setup and got a HUGE spark. - it has fidle output (even though I'm not sure if I need it) Not sure why you would need the FIDLE, you could just use the air regulator you have now. Wire it to the fuel pump or something that's on while the car is running. - it supports Low Impedence injectors so I don't need the silly flyback resistor board. Correct - It comes with a built in 3.0 bar MAP sensor. That should handle all the boost I'll ever need. It comes with a 2.5bar MAP sensor, so you can run a total of 22psi. 14.7 is atmospheric plus 22 = 36.7psi or about 2.5bar. You can run bigger MAPs like a GM 4bar, but I don't know exactly what's involved. I also don't think that I need the MSII daugherboard because I will get more use out of the MS&SE that comes standard on the V.3 board. Correct? IMO I wouldn't get a MSII. With MSII you can only run the MSII code like you said. MSnS-extra has a lot more features like traction control, nitrous control, water injection, shift lights, etc. The 83 dizzy will work fine, I couldn't get my 81 CAS to work, so I went with a 76 VR distributor. I'm not sure about the ignition, but with MSnS-E there's a lot of options, like crank VR sensor, EDIS from a late model Ford which I think allows you to run a coil on plug setup. I made my own wiring harness and I love it, came out very tidy. It was kind of hard finding all the colors for wires, but between http://www.mcmaster.com and some local places I came up with enough. For the relays I bought 2 generic ones with the blocks to plug them into and wired it all up myself.

The wiring for a V3 and a V2 is identical for the basics. The v3 differs by adding a few additional in/out wires for the new things that are built in. Like for the VR sensor and coil driver. If you're confused, go over to http://www.megasquirt.info and look at the difference. I would imagine that resistor is there for a good reason, to lower the voltage, so follow the diagram.

I don't believe there are any differences between the '81-83 engines, other than the '83 might have the P90a head with hydraulic lifters. From the s130 to s30 guide.. a picture of the dropping resistor plug: You should also have a big metal box plugged into that if it is infact a 81 harness.

Well, fixed, sort of. I'm not sure why I couldn't get a decent spark with Megasquirt V3 and the VB921 coil driver, but hooked up to a GM 4-pin HEI module it works great. As for the 280zx efi, I think I fried the ignitor on for the 81 280zxt coil.

I've been chasing this problem for about a month now. I've got nowhere, even with a totally different fuel injection system and wiring. By weak spark, I mean I have to hold the plug cable within a few thousands of an inch of the block to see a tiny spark. I've replaced the coil - tested with 4 different ones, 3 used and a new MSD blaster 2 Replaced the plug wires Replaced Cap and rotor on the 81zxt and 76 280z dizzy Tried two seperate EFI systems, stock '81zxt with CAS and '76 VR dizzy with megaquirt-n-spark extra. What I know: with the original 81 280zxt plug wires, I get little to no spark with new MSD heli-core wires, I get little to no spark with my old '76 solid core wires I get a decent spark, but this kills my ecu (both the stock 81 ecu and the new megasquirt). Causes the ECU to reset everytime the coil fires. The coil sees 10.5 volts at the lowest while cranking So it would seem to be a problem somewhere else in the car - not related to the distributor, the coil, the wires, or the ignition module. I've cleaned all connections to the battery and added extra grounds to the ECU and motor. With megasquirt I'm using a new harness that I've created which takes power from a different source than the 280zxt harness did. Basically the connection to MSnS is all new in every way. The only part of this system I haven't replaced the battery, but then I don't think it could be bad. It holds 12.65 volts and 10.5 volts when cranking and the starter doesn't have a problem turning the motor over. The only thing I can think of I haven't tried, is to wire the coil directly to the battery. If anyone has any ideas, let me hear them, I'll try just about anything.

I don't want to sound like I'm ragging on Pete, but I was pretty damn pissed when I got the DP and found out it was made incorrectly. I also posted to make sure he wasn't trying to unload the 50 or so messed up downpipes and run. After I proved it was wrong, MSA and I would assume Pete, made a fixed DP and shipped to me next day. Other than that, it's great. Welds look really nice and the flange is thick. There's a thread in the turbo forum from August with a bunch of pictures I took if anyone is curious.

Do you make the DPs for MSA? Sure Looks like it, the flange is welded on upside down in your photos just like theirs was. I think I was the first person to buy one, that was a fun little suprise when it arrived..