Metro

I could have made it but decided not too. Getting the flange made is what stopped me, I don't know any machinist or good shops to go to. I also figured I'd only save about $100-120 after buying the materials I need. Heh I've barely driven the car, so I'm not sure how much of a difference I'll feel. I'm holding off on the intercooler just so I have something to look forward too

Looks ok, there's a few spots I'll have to grind down. Haven't had a chance to see how it fits in the car yet, but here's some pictures I took. If any ZX people want some measurements lemme know and I'll post them. clicky clicky

I tested what difference it actually made when I wired my car a few weeks ago. Pretty much as far as I can tell, the car will start after about 1 second and a handful of revolutions with it connected. With it disconnected it will take about 2-3 seconds to start. So it's basically with it - one twitch of the key, with it disconnected you have to hold it a bit.

I don't think anyone does, but I've seen several cars with custom fronts like that. You might get away with molding a fiberglass airdam into the headlight buckets, but I'm not sure not really my area. Kinda looks like that's what was done here.

From reading the first post I knew right off your ECU isn't turned on. The black/white wire by the "green" relay is the "on" switch for the ECU. Hook that up to an ignition source and you should be good. Just don't hook it up to the same wire as the coil.. or it won't shut off, that was my problem Oh yeah and the Blue/Red wire by the black/white wire is the fuel pump relay on signal.

Yeah I really like the uh.. L type, the one with the flares and bigger wheels. The the 7m-gte would be perfect for it. For all the boxy-square cars that came out of the mid 80's the supra was defintely one that did it right.

Before you ask, yes I searched and I read the post a little ways down the page. This is driving me insane, I've tried everything I can think of. My pump sounds like someone is slowly letting the air out of a balloon. A real high pitch shreak but only after I've been driving it for a few minutes or if I rev parked for a while. It's very loud annoying sound, like you can hear it 20 feet away when my car is running and I have an open exhaust at the moment. From the sound I would guess would that mean there's an air leak and it's sucking air somewhere? I can't really understand how it can be doing that and not leaking any fuel, but then I'm a novice. I've also replaced and put teflon tape on all the fittings several times. Of course everything has clamped and is tight. Stock L28et in a 1976 280z Fuel stuff: JSK fuel rail and aeromotive RFPFR (not really needed right now since I'm bone stock) and -6AN flare fittings connecting it. I doubt any of that is affecting it, but there it is. What worked: The original pump is an aftermarket replacement pump made by Airtex and sold by Autostar. It has 5/16th and 1/2" in fittings. I also have a 1/2" inline universal filter between the tank and the fuel pump (my tank is full of crap). With this setup, I don't have any problems. I also have seen this pump listed as a replacement pump for the l28et cars, but not sure how much I trust that. What I have now Walbro GL392 5/16th and a bell to 1/4" NPT so I can run larged than 5/16th on the inlet. I run the same PSI as with the old pump, about 34psi at idle. The pump is bolted to the bottom side of the old fuel pump bracket which places it about 1" below the outlet line of the tank. To stop it from kinking, I used about 12" of line to reach the fuel pump. Originally I used a 3/8 line going to the filter and it ran ok, didnt' stumble and the gauge read 30-32psi at idle - even with it shrieking. I changed the inlet fitting to 1/2" and used half inch fuel line. Much worse now, almost died driving back home after a test run. At idle the FP was jumping between 5-17psi. As for filters, I've tried 3 different ones, so unless they all can't flow very much volume, it's something else. I haven't tried running it straight from the tank to the pump, because the crap in the tank might hurt the fuel pump, but damn, I might do it anyway to see. I've tried blowing air into the tank to see if there was anything stuck in the outlet too. At this point, I'm ready to say **** it and put the old pump back in. Anyone have any ideas or other things to check?

Just finished my swap a couple days ago, here's my AFM setup, it's sitting sideways, but I haven't had any problems yet. I don't have A/C in the car, but I tried to make my mount clear the where the compressor would be, so here's what I came up with I cut the zxt rubber boot about 1" in front of the large vacuum fitting. I used 1 90° 3" stainless bend I got from atpturbo.com and a flex fitting (not sure if I needed that now). I used a sawzall to enlarge the hole so I could stick the pipe out front. I probably should have waited to cut the hole when I actually had the pipe.. but you can see where you don't have to cut. It may not be the best for flow, but it's the best I could think of in the time I had to do it. I'm not really sure how I'm going to fit a decent sized intercooler out front with the filter the way it is right now, so I might have to rethink that later.

Part no #48935K25 and here's a guide http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey/perform/grainger.htm

I just bought a fuel rail off ebay from him, so if he's out of it, I'm glad I was able to get one.

I just finished my swap - 81zxt into my 76 280z my wiring harness wasn't hacked up like yours, but the wiring was really really simple. I don't recognize the 8 pin plug you're showing so I'm pretty sure it's not used. The other looks like it might be the plug which is close to the fuel injection relay - about 4-5 inches down the harness. That plug has your fuel pump relay trigger (LR - blue is L) and ignition signal (BW). If I were you, I'd take the fuel injection harness out of the car and lay it out. The only part of that harness you need to cut out is by the fusible links. You'll have to cut out the coil wires/harness out of the ZX's chassis harness or just wire it yourself. Check out the "Quick FI and ignition 280zx s30" stick for picture of most of the plugs and what to cut. Between that guide and fl327's post at the bottom of the turbo beginner's sticky you should have all the info you need.

Wow, that thing is all kinds of ugly.

I really dig the syclones. 4.3liter turbocharged, awd, and a nice body kit. Too bad they only made like 3,000-4,000 of them.

I'm in the middle of doing the l28et swap. If you guys think it's a good design, I'll be a lemming and try it out. Only thing I find odd, is there's no flange for bolting the bottom to the rest of the exhaust.

hahaha man that was great, he never quit.

That's cool, didn't know there was anything like that around here.

Nice job! I'm hoping to cobble something together out of my 280zx parts car soon.

For an airdam, you usually just take off the OEM piece and then bolt/screw on the new piece. If you mean ground effects on the sides of the car, those usually need to be taped or molded in.

Yeah yeah I know, it got sprayed with clearcoat and turned a nice brown. But the 280zx tear down is moving along nicely and I should hopefully have it in the Z by next weekend. So I'm going to need an all new exhaust

My 280z was just like that when I got it, it had sat for like 10 years. The fuel injectors were all plugged and the tank was full of junk. If you can, take off the injectors and soak them in injector cleaner for a few days. Don't give up though, just about everyone on this site who gave up on a project really regretted it later.

You can buy most of that new from VB, but it's 129.99 per lock and $99 for the ignition.

I'm in Rogue River right now. I think you can get ZG flares for the 280zx, but they're only available in Japan. You can't get the exact same airdam I have for the ZX because the body is so different. But MSA sells several airdams for the ZX. As for updates.. heh well, in a couple of weeks, it will be in a junkyard. My 280z looked just as bad as that 280zx, but the 280zx is full of holes. Well, I should say, it's missing large portions of "car" in several places. Like the cowl has rusted so much, it has 8-10" sections missing. It could be fixed sure, but I've seen nicer cars in the junkyard so it's not worth saving.

Here's my car, yeah I know, another silver Z with black flairs 1976 Datsun 280z MSA fiberglass bumpers - welded up the bumper support holes in the rear ZG Flares from classic datsun BRE/421 Spoiler from classic datsun Modern-motorsport Coilovers Bone stock L28e (and a hole just before the muffler, for that pleasant lawn mower sound) I bought the car in september 2003 for $500. Looks like this car was in southern oregon for most of it's life because it was nearly rust free. I spent the next year doing bodywork in my parent's garage. First time painting anything so I messed up and generally wasn't happy with the results.. So I ended up repainting it last January. Wheels ROH Snypers: 17x8 and 17x9 5" BS 4x4.5 These were specially made for a group buy that some MKII supra guys started January 2004, recieved the wheels December 2004. I actually found out about the GB by a member here, but as far as I know, I'm the only person with a Z in that GB. ROH kinda really screwed up the specs. Originally they promised 4" BS +10 in front and +0 in the rear. What they delivered was 5" BS and +17mm all around. Oh, and they put the front centercaps that are domed on the rear wheels and had a different size flat center cap on the front ... wtf? But for $710 shipped I can't complain at all. The front has 245/45/17 and the rears are wearing 275/40/17. Don't ask about the tires.. I was desperate, but they are directional. With the coilovers the wheels cleared all the way around. The rear was a bit tight with about 1/16th of clearance between the perch and tire. The wheels also fit perfectly inside the fenders.. problem is, I had already put on the ZG flares and wanted that pushed out look. So I picked up some 1" adapters which put the wheels almost perfectly to the edge of the flare. Now what the hell am I doing on Hybrid Z? Glad you asked, I had originally planned on doing a SBC v8 swap, bought the JTR manual and was ready to go when the bodywork was done. But over the years of reading posts on this board, I decided to go for the L28et. Only problem was, I was having a hell of a time finding one. I finally found a running 280zx locally for $400 and jumped on it. Today my Dad and I went and picked it up and I'll be doing the swap in the next few weeks I've never been in a car with t-tops, it's pretty cool. I don't feel bad parting this one out either, it's freakin swiss cheese. The PO lived in San Fransico and it shows In case anyone is wondering, I'm 20 and I did 95% of the work myself and paid for it myself. Huge thanks goes to my parents for letting me take over their garage for a year and half. Now it's time to have fun and I can change the tag line in my sig

I bought my car with the intention to do the SBC swap, even have the JTR book. Then I concentrated on doing the L28et, but was having a really hard time finding one here. So then about a two months ago I thought hey, a 1jz-gte would be awesome and I started saving up money for a clip, researching parts, and studying the wiring diagrams. Then I had to stumble across a running 280zx turbo for cheap and screwed up that plan. So in the next couple of weeks, it's L28et for me.