Metro

Zcars use 4x4.5 (4x114.3), 80's mustangs are 4x4.25. You would have to get an adapter made, like from www.modern-motorsports.com. That the offset will also put the wheels into your stock suspension, at least a s30, not 100% sure about a s130.

A lot of people say the quality of MSA's fiberglass is really bad, that's why I didn't mention them. I just got a set of fiberglass bumpers from them.. horrible, they weren't even finished. Not to mention they're not straight at all. Can't believe they charge people for this crap.

That's a BRE spoiler, Les at http://www.classicdatsun.com makes them. I have one myself, the quality is very nice.

hahaha teh winnar!

jebus, the hit counter was at 400k when I saw it on fark yesterday. Now it's over 5 million

I'm pretty sure I got these pictures off hybridz about a year ago

I bought a front fender lower replacement piece from VB a few weeks back. The contour seemed just fine, but there's no bolt holes and the edges need about .5" trimmed off. I probaby wouldn't buy any large or complex pieces, but the small stuff should be okay.

I think the stock wheels have are 6" wide. Most people who are running ZG flares run a 8-9" wheel up front and a 9-10.5" wheel in the rear. Using spacers to push those skinny wheels outside the fender would look kinda funny, IMO.

well then, Mike's car is a '76 280z and I think he's called it "Leaf Green"

That's the original green which came on Z's.

I just got some from classicdatsun a few days ago, pretty good quality. I think he just had some more made recently, so if you want some better order it now or you'll have to wait a few weeks for him to get some more made.

I don't see any interior pieces listed in Victoria British's catalog other than carpet, so I doubt there is any out there. Time to hit the junkyards

And I just ordered one from Classic Datsun today

Pretty sure the 87 was the first year of LSD and if it's all white, it could be the special edition with the VLSD.

Don't suppose this car show was in Central Point, Oregon at the fairgrounds? I went there 2 weeks ago and snapped some pics of a jag. more pics here

heh, it only took me a few minutes to figure that out

If you're after the blinkers, the mounts for the blinkers are welded to the body of the 280z and the grill just has cut outs where the lights stick through.

When my car sat for a long time the injectors got stuck/dirty/varnished, whatever and would only run with a huge vacuum leak until I poured a ton of injector cleaner in the tank. So disconnect a vacuum line and see if it'll start, it's worth trying. As for that broken thing, it could be the thermodyme or the temperature sensor, I'll have to go look at my car. If it is the thermotime, that means the coldstart injector isn't going to work - but then I've read thats only useful below 30°F or so.

I'm probably going to get in on this for my Z -> http://www.celicasupra.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5364 ROH snyper wheels, size 17x8 +10mm in front and 17x9 +0mm rear, 4x114.3mm bolt pattern. Not sure if they'll fill the flares completely, but they should stick out a bit.

As I understand if, the fuel pump should only be on when the AFM is moving or the engine is cranking, whenever I turn the key to ON, the fuel pump kicks in immediatly. The guy I got the car from had just put in a new fuel pump, and at first I thought he might have screwed with the wiring, but I don't see any splices or anything out of the ordinary. The manual I have doesn't really help me too much, its for a 75 and my car is a 76. The relays and wiring are just different enough to make the manual useless. Could the fuel pump relay be stuck on? If the key is set to ON should you be able to turn the fuel pump on and off by messing the AFM flap? I thought I had tried everything, but typing this post out made me think of some things I haven't checked. But if anyone can think of anything, it would be much appreciated.

hey! I'm going from a s10, how ppl cram a v8 in that hole..

I'm a n00b, well, I know enough to be dangerous but the whole reason I got a Z car was to do an engine swap. I thought, well they're cheap, look great, rear wheel drive, and have a huge engine bay. I found this site and started reading it daily months before I even had a Zcar. Well when I started out, I wanted to do a swap right away, but now, I think can wait a while. Right now, I'll just be happy to drive it one of these days. It's been bodywork hell for months now

I probably should wait for my uncle to do it, he was a bodyman for like 10 or 15 years. But I hate not knowing how to do something and having to wait on him. I have a beat up 280z hood to practice on too. If I can't get it right on that, I'll just wait.. and wait.. and wait.. for my uncle. SBC_400 had the info I wanted, but one question - how hot do you get the metal? Redhot or what? Thanks for the tips guys.

The roof on my 280z was dented in and now it oilcans. The roof will pop back into place, but its still pretty soft. It's not dented too bad, it's good enough to smooth over with a thin layer of filler. From what I've read I think I need to use the heat & quench technique, but for such a large area as the roof is there another way or a different technique? It seems like everything I read regarding heat and quench, is that it's generally used on a small area like a dent that has been worked with a hammer and dolly. I've also read about shrinking discs, but I'm not sure if thats what I need. Anbody know anything about this? Hope I made a some sense.