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Everything posted by fusion

  1. Marugen makes wide rear flares in standard and deluxe types. http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/Body/Rwide/Rwide1.htm
  2. Thanks for your comments. Did you get the standard, deluxe, or special type? How long did it take for you to get them? So you think the flares need some sort of flexible material behind them to prevent cracking of the paint on the flares?
  3. I am going bumperless in the rear and am shaving the roll pan on my 280z. I know the large holes can be filled in with sheet metal and welded. What about the recessed areas and threaded holes? See picture. For area 1, what have people done? I was thinking of getting set screws in the threaded holes and welding closed. But what about the large recess? I really don't want to fill it in with Bondo. Maybe just fill in the threaded holes and leave the area recessed? Same questions for area 2. Pictures would be really nice. Thanks
  4. Title says it all. I believe Marugen Shoukai do not need it. I know a lot of flares are crap quality. Does anyone have first hand experience? Thanks
  5. No problem man. Hopefully there is a clear answer on how wide of a tire can fit in an S30 with standard and extra wide flares. Obviously the wheel offset makes a big difference, but I can buy whatever wheels are necessary.
  6. The custom length axles and transverse link allowed the spindle to move inboard, thus giving more clearance. Unless I misunderstood what that guy did.
  7. Thanks CalZ. It appears in that particular case there was custom rear suspension and axle shafts used. Might not be possible without that specific setup?
  8. Is anyone running the extra wide marugen shoukai rear flares? https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai-rear-extra-wide-over-fenders-s30-s31.html Would really like to see pics and hear comments. From my research, it appears that 275s are the biggest tire that can fit under the standard size ZG flares, is that correct? Anyone know the max size under the extra wide flares? Thanks
  9. What weatherstripping are you using? Is the Kia Sportage weatherstrip still a good option? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34633-kia-sportage-weatherstip-rocks/
  10. Yes I did see that, but also just saw this as well: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/132250-5-lug-front-hubs-using-cheap-off-the-shelf-parts/
  11. Vlad sent me this link, check it out. They very slightly modify a 1968 Mustang front hub/rotor to fit the S30 front spindle.
  12. Thanks. It's hard to judge now since I cut the panel out, but I suspect you must be right. If it doesn't drain out the front it has nowhere to go.
  13. I am working on my 76 280z. The recess behind the gas door was rusted out in one corner. See pictures below. I noticed that the backside was seam sealed all the way around. Where is gasoline or more importantly water supposed to go when it gets in there? Obviously you don't want to have gasoline leak on the back side of the quarter panel because the smell would be inside the cabin. Has anyone welded in a nipple in the corner and attached a hose that runs down and empties on the ground? That's my current plan. Thanks for any comments
  14. I wanted to get recent opinions on a 5 lug swap for the front only for my 280z. I saw that silvermine and T3 make new hubs, anyobe have any experience with either? Any other good options? Needs to be 5x4.5" Seems like the 300zx option isn't as attractive due to the scarcity (and thus cost) of the hubs. Thanks
  15. The kit I am using has a 5/8" bore on the upright/spindle specifically for the 5/8" bolt. The control arm bushings are still very slightly bigger though
  16. Thanks to everyone for your comments- especially JMortensen, that was very insightful.
  17. Can't disagree with you there. But I know others have used a bolt with the factory upright so knowing what they did and the long term results are would be important since it's the same principle.
  18. Yes I did see that thread but no one really mentioned what they torqued the nut to. Some people apparently just torque the nut down, some use 2 nuts to limit the amount of compression.
  19. Thanks grannyknot. I'm not really concerned if the bolt can take the torque, I'm more concerned about the fact that the spindle pin has shoulders on both ends which prevent the nuts from being tightened too far where the bolt has threads that would allow you to tighten the nut to the point where the upright would barely be able to turn because there would be so much friction between it and the control arm bushings.
  20. I have researched replacing the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt. I know people have done this before. I am putting in the Ford super 8.8 kit from InvincibleExtremes (Vlad) and it replaces the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt. I also had the (dis)pleasure of removing my factory spindle pins. What I want to know is, when people have used a bolt, what do they tighten the nut torque to? I have poly bushings, and when the nut is tightened, the metal sleeves of the bushings will tighten against the metal bore of the new upright in the kit. I was worried about the metal to metal contact in this area but this is the same as stock, right? I was considering putting a thin Delrin washer (thrust washer?)between the bushing sleeves and the upright. I will be using a nylock nut, and probably another jam nut just to be safe. But what torque should I tighten the nut to? I believe factory torque spec is 65 ft-lbs. Thanks
  21. Hey guys, I have a 1976 280z. One of the previous owners decided to get rid of the fuel filler door and weld in a patch in its place. They did a horrible job and ruined the body line in that area. I don't need to have a fuel door but would really like to fix the area before I paint the car this summer. I would normally just use a stud welder+slide hammer and get it close then smooth with filler. However, the body line that runs right through this area is totally ruined and I don't think I can bring it back to an acceptable level. I know most vendors only sell quarter panel patches that don't have this body line. I did find one vendor that does sell a panel that includes the body line, Wolf Steel: https://alfaparts.net/pics/nissan/nz5.htm 1) Does anyone have experience with Wolf Steel panels? 2) Are there any other vendors that sell a panel that includes the body line? 3) Any other thoughts? Thanks
  22. Wow, thanks for the link. I did a bunch of searching but never came across that discussion. On a similar note, is there any good information on the rubber washers that go between the spindle and control arm? Can I just pick some up from a hardware store? I don't believe mine had any in there when I pulled everything apart.
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