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fusion

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Everything posted by fusion

  1. fusion
    Thanks to everyone for your comments. Another reason I am not excited to use the tension rod to increase caster is that I am not too keen on moving the wheels further forward in the wheel well. It seems that even at factory settings the wheels sit slightly forward.
  2. fusion
    Thanks guys. What I meant by a new top is that I could take a 1/8" plate with the shock holes drilled offset towards the rear and weld on the shock tower to give more caster. I have BC coilovers now. I think I could get 1/2" or so, maybe more. I'm in the middle of a resto mod build so I don't mind doing it if it's a good benefit. I don't plan on tracking the car, so I'm not concerned about the race benefits, I've just heard that the s30 has pretty poor camber from the factory. I've read that any adjustments on the tension rod aren't as beneficial because it puts the LCA bushing in a bind, and you don't get much adjustment anyways. Thanks
  3. fusion
    Anyone have any input?
  4. fusion
    I understand that a stock 280z has about 2-3 degrees of caster. I have read that usually more caster is better. For a 100% street car, would there be any advantage to having more caster? Would I notice a difference at high speeds? I am planning on electric power steering. If so, has anyone ever slotted or made a new plate for the shock tower top to move the top of the strut or coilover back? Thanks
  5. fusion
    Great build so far! Did you use any of the custom tools Ford specifies in the instructions to replace the yoke on the diff? I need to do mine soon. Any tips or pictures of that? Did you just use a standard inch pound torque wrench to get the torque-to-turn measurement?
  6. fusion
    If anyone is interested in doing this mod, I have purchased a bunch of the parts but am now selling as I am focusing on other areas of the car first. Sale thread here: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131962-5-lug-front-mustang-spindle-conversion-parts/
  7. fusion
    I was planning on converting my car to front mustang 5 lug hubs and brakes as detailed in this thread: I bought most of the parts and started putting it together but I just have too many other things going on with the car right now (roll cage, turbo build, fuel system, etc) and don't want to mess with the front suspension right now. My loss, your gain. Pair of front lower control arms with the mustang ball joint pocket already welded in place. Purchased the 280z control arms and the mustang control arms and the welding and fitment done by Vlad (invincibleextremes). Welded 1/2" back to allow for easier wheel fitment. I also did the horrible job of removing of the old bushings. Ball joints that are in there were degraded from the welding heat and need replaced after everything is installed. Nice thing about these is that you don't have to pull your control arms to modify. I paid $250 for these all said and done. Selling for $150. Pair of 2014 mustang spindles. These are low mile units that are in excellent shape. Comes with ABS sensors and Vlad adapter plates to weld to the coilover. Paid $290, sell for $125. Pair of 2005-2009 front mustang calipers. These will clear some 15" wheels. Great shape, include caliper brackets. Paid $100, sell for $50. Prices do not include shipping. If anyone is interested in the whole lot, I will sell everything for $275.
  8. fusion
    What about using the LS tank with Holley Hydramat? Should alleviate most fuel movement concerns with aftermarket pumps and regulators. https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/stopping-fuel-starvation-holley-hydramat/ Otherwise, do any vendors offer a custom EFI tank for the 280z?
  9. fusion
    But if the control arms are flipped, does it put the coilover lower mount in the same position as factory, or is it moved back?
  10. fusion
    So after thinking about this more, I'm assuming that the reason for needing to move the top of the coilover back is because even though flipping the control arms moves the wheel back close to the original location, the location of the coilover lower mount is too far back, thus requiring the upper mount moved back. Is this correct?
  11. fusion
    Ok, my next question is about the location of the wheels. If I bolt the mustang spindle on, the wheel will be sitting 0.75" forward from normal. I don't want to cut my fenders so I want to move it back to center. To accomplish this, I can swap left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods. Does this put the wheel centered in the wheel well? If so, why does the coilover need to be moved backwards via rotated camber plates? Thanks
  12. fusion
    So the 2014 mustang spindle is the exact same taper as a 280z knuckle?
  13. fusion
    Ok, I am doing this mod and wanted to shore up a few things about the tie rods. I will be using: 2014 mustang spindles 2006 mustang calipers and v6 rotors (to clear 15" wheels) 280z BC racing coilovers (with Vlad adapter plates) Factory 280z manual rack (I think.. Any way to tell for sure?) I have seen it mentioned that I can just purchase the T3 outer tie rods and use a 5/8" drill bit to bore out the 2014 mustang spindle? Is this the right one: ( https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/high-clearance-outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z ) ? Or do I have to order a custom outer tie rod from T3? What about the Apex Engineered outer tie rods? I am also thinking about swapping left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods to move the wheels back a bit. Any downsides to this? Thanks
  14. fusion
    Has anyone used adjustable tension rods with this setup to move the wheel back some? Doesn't this bind up the control arm bushing?
  15. fusion
    Larry, l just sent you a private message.
  16. fusion
    Thanks Larry. How much would shipping be to 55127? Joe
  17. fusion
    Can this mod be done with a manual rack? I was thinking of going with electric power steering and I believe you need a manual rack for that.
  18. fusion
    Looking for a pair of stock control arms.
  19. fusion
    Hi Alan, I haven't gotten that far yet, still working on the engine. I hope to get to it this winter. Joe
  20. fusion
    I am putting an 5.3/turbo in my 280z. I am fabricating my own motor mounts and welding them to the frame rails instead of the crossmember to gain space for a downpipe. My frame rails are in great shape. Anyone see any issues with it? I know it's been done before, just wanted to double check. Thanks
  21. fusion
    Any link to the laser centerline method?
  22. fusion
    Does anyone know if the factory drivetrain on an S30 is offset slightly to the passenger side? I am installing a new engine/trans and I was trying to measure the centerline of the rear diff with respect to the frame rails and it appeared to be approximately 1/2" offset to the passenger side. Is that right? It's hard to get a good measurement. Thanks
  23. fusion
    Thanks for the pictures. Can you also comment on my questions above? Thanks
  24. fusion
    Thanks for all the comments everyone
  25. fusion
    Thanks for all comments. Jmortensen, great pictures. I was thinking I could just cut the mount off flush with the engine side frame rail, weld in a new angled plate and mount the bushing there. Would save a ton of time with spot welds. NewZed, very interesting idea, thanks. That could be a great solution. Upon initial look getting around the tie rods could be an issue, but not out of the question.
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