fusion

In the rear quarter panel, I should have specified.

How are you accomplishing this with the inner fender in the way?

Thanks man. Definitely.

I have done patch panels before. I could probably make it but not worth the time to me when I can just buy a panel that's already in the perfect shape. (I did already get a patch and welded it in) Also, not sure why anyone would attempt to make a patch without using any filler unless you're working on a DeLorean.

Thanks man, good info.

Thanks for the comments. I am in the process of building it now. The drivetrain is done along with most of the body work. I got the car as a rolling shell and have never driven it. I just don't have the experience to know what stock parts can really benefit from upgrading. For example, I don't know if the stock moustache bar or stock front control arms are worth upgrading. Points taken on the front brakes. I'll definitely look to get something better. I am running 15" wheels so that is a consideration. I don't have a master cylinder picked out yet. I was looking at the Toyota Tacoma upgrade that some others have done. I already need to buy a new rear sway bar since my stock one that goes in front of the diff won't fit with the super 8.8. I'll probably get the ST rear kit. As far as seats, I will be running 2000 Viper seats. They fit and look great after some minor floor pan surgery. I will definitely be doing all the chassis and engine tuning once I get the car up and running. Thanks

Ah, yes, I forget to mention that I have subframe connectors and also added support bars to the inner front fender horns as well

Car is a 1976 280z. 100% street car. In the middle of building it. Current drivetrain is a single turbo 5.3, t56 magnum, Ford super 8.8 rear diff with 2015 mustang rear disc brakes. 6 point roll bar. BC coilovers on all 4 corners. All poly bushings. I won't be tracking the car but it should have a lot of power and I do want it to be stable at speed and be able to put the power to the pavement. Trying to figure out the best things to upgrade suspension/brakes wise. Don't want to upgrade just for the sake of upgrading, but where it really makes a difference for street driving. This is my first Datsun so I'm not that familiar with the best upgrades. Currently stock: Moustache bar Rear drop mounts/dogbone Front and rear control arms Front and rear sway bars Front brakes Front tension rods Steering rack Tentative plans: Upgrade stock front brakes with Toyota calipers and solid rotors Silvermine electric power steering Would love input from people who have valuable insight. Thanks

My 1976 280z driver's door has a unpullable dent at the top right where where the mirror bolts to it. It's in an extremely tight location and I don't think I can pound it out. Wondering if anyone has a rusty door that they could cut out a patch panel out of. I *think* any year 240-280 should work but not 100% sure.

Thread the bolt in while welding so it makes it harder to lose shape

That's basically what I was thinking. But all the images I've seen seem to show everyone making just one cut.

Anyone?

I am in the early stages of fitting my rear ZG flares on my 280z. I have read through a lot of install threads, most of which have broken picture links. My understanding is the best way to decide how high up to mount the flares is to remove the spring from my BC racing coilover to allow the shock to compress all the way to the bump stop. However, when I did that, I can only compress the shock up so far until the rear wheel/tire (275-50-r15) runs into the factory wheel arch. There is still a ways to go before the bump stop bottoms out. But it's extremely hard to measure the distance remaining. It's a chicken-and-egg scenario. I can't determine where to make my cut line until I can compress the wheel/tire all the way, but I can't do that without cutting the metal first. I must be missing something, any thoughts?

I am going to be mounting my flares soon and need to get the rivnuts. I have read a bunch of threads but was looking for some feedback. Aluminum Pros: won't rust. Easy to crimp down. Easy to drill out if needed. Cons: weak threads that can strip. Galvanic corrosion to steel body? Zinc plated steel Pros: strong. Somewhat easy to crimp down. Decent rust resistance? No galvanic corrosion? Able to be tack welded to body. Cons: not enough rust resistance? Stainless Pros: strong. Won't rust. Able to be tack welded to body Cons: hard to crimp down? Galvanic corrosion? Hard to drill out if needed. Thoughts?

I like to use a low power setting on my MIG and make a couple of small tacks next to, but not on, the hole. This acts as a heat sink. Then I do small tacks butting up to the heatsink and move subsequent tacks across the hole until it's filled in. If this method blows through the metal then it needs to be cut out anyways.

SOLD

Thanks guys. I won't be tracking the car, but will have lots of power on tap so want to upgrade the stopping power. I understand I'll need to tune the brake bias. I am leaning towards the later model s12+8 calipers with vented 300zx rotors. I feel like that will be a good match with the mustang rear discs. Does anyone know if the front rotors from an 84-86 turbo 300zx will bolt right in to this setup? I will be using the Silvermine 5 lug hubs with a 5x103mm rotor bolt pattern. I think it works

Thanks for your reply. I will be running stock 2015 mustang rear brakes which are 11.8" calipers

I need to convert to 5 lug setup for my front wheels. The rear is already taken care of with the super 8.8 kit. I am heavily leaning towards the Silvermine conversion hubs. But on to the brakes. I am not planning on tracking the car, but it will be a single turbo LS and need decent stopping power on the street. So I saw there is a conversion to run Toyota brakes. Looks fairly low cost. There are a lot of threads but most of the info is lost or broken links. I did find this link to a page about the swap: https://web.archive.org/web/20140110095234/http://drivendaily.org/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades/ My questions are: 1) is this swap still a decent option in 2021? 2) is the information in the page above still correct and relevant? 3) does this swap clear 15" wheels ( I will be running a spacer) 4) is buying a kit the way to go or is ordering parts from Rockauto better? Thanks for any input. Joe

Thanks man, I appreciate it

Wow, very cool, thanks. I changed the title so hopefully now it will pass the FB monitor.

Thanks man. I'm not on FB but hopefully it will sell.

Everything I have is in the pictures. I did post on classicz as well.

Just outside of Saint Paul, MN

Price drop to $900