fusion

Excellent work

How did you form that feature?

Are these available anywhere? If not, what are people doing as a replacement?

I have a 1976 280z. I am in the middle of a complete teardown and restomod. I got the car as a shell. I am wondering what these 2 holes are for in the firewall? I believe the smaller hole above those 2 circled in red is for the hood release cable. Also, what is this plugged hole that leads from the upper firewall behind the dash that goes into the inner cowl is for? Thanks!

Bump still looking

Thanks for the valuable insight. I will definitely try to seal it off from inside

I removed all the HVAC components from my 1976 280z and have no plans to reinstall. There is now an open hole where the blower connected to the air inlet that runs from under the cowl to inside the car. Wondering if I should block this off or not. At speed, will air be moving into the car or out of the car? I'm also wondering how much air will be moving. Does anyone have any experience with this? I wouldn't mind a little air movement but don't want a lot.

Looking for a spring for a lower door hinge for a 280z.

Do you happen to have a link to what you bought from Amazon?

Thanks Cal!

Hey, I am wiring my 280z from scratch. I removed the original harness from the car and am going to get a Painless chassis kit. I will be running a Holley standalone engine harness. I was thinking about getting this version: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10101 It's for a GM keyed column and doesn't come with the connectors like the much more expensive Pro kit. I am assuming I don't even want the GM connectors in the Pro kit anyway, I am hoping to reuse the ones from my Datsun. Do people have much luck reusing the 45 year old connectors? I'm assuming the plastic connectors are Datsun specific and aren't widely available for cheap? Has anyone found a source for the just the metal male/female crimp parts that go inside the plastic connectors? I'm assuming those are standard parts that can be bought cheaply.

Thanks everyone. I've never really had an issue with needing to clean bugs off the windshield while driving.

Thanks guys. Car is in primer so I could definitely weld the holes shut. But not sure I want the permanence of that. Plugs are a good idea but the holes are oval. I wish I could attach the wiper arms without installing the entire wiper assembly, is that possible?

Has anyone not run front wipers, and if so, did you plug the holes in the cowl? I won't purposefully drive in the rain, and I plan to put Rain-X on the windshield in case I get caught in the rain. I wouldn't mind losing the weight of the wiper motor and assembly, and don't see a reason to keep everything when I'm likely not going to use them at all. I also have a muscle car that I've had for years and have probably run the wipers twice in the last 10 years. I think it might look funny just leaving the holes in the cowl open. Thoughts?

The best option, in my opinion, by far, is the super 8.8 option.

Can you post pics showing what has changed in the kit that allows the rear wheels to move backward?

Yes. The fronts are skinnier and have a more pronounced bend to contour the fender

I just installed mine. The fronts are obvious and easy to tell which side is which. Rears are much more subtle. From my research and fitment, you want the flares oriented with the wider portion towards the front of the car. Hope that helps.

Great work

Thanks guys. I do have the Marugen flares so they should fit tight

My main reason for wanting to weld nuts instead of rivnuts is to have the flares sit flush on the metal. I am really hoping to not have to use welting.

Any downsides to tack welding nuts behind the sheet metal for ZG flares instead of using rivnuts? Car is still in primer. I was thinking of drilling holes slightly oversized and using flange nuts to give more area to weld to. Is there room to fish a flange nut between outer and inner sheet metal on the rears after the first cut on the outer skin? For the fronts I think it's pretty straightforward. Any comments?

Just to follow up on this, I purchased the vents and they are nicely built and look sweet but they do NOT fit without modifying. I had to remove at least 1/4" of material from the edges to get them to fit in the hood recesses.

Thanks jhm. I'll definitely look at moving the flares forward a bit.

I tack my exhaust pieces usually laying under the car and never back purge. It's just not practical or necessary. I have back purged the full welds but usually use solar flux instead as it's much cheaper and easier. No real risk in after turbo exhaust. Pre-turbo, back purge only. If you are building an extremely high end vehicle maybe back purge everything.