fusion

No one has any comments? I think it's pretty interesting

Yes I did see that, but also just saw this as well: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/132250-5-lug-front-hubs-using-cheap-off-the-shelf-parts/

Vlad sent me this link, check it out. They very slightly modify a 1968 Mustang front hub/rotor to fit the S30 front spindle.

Thanks. It's hard to judge now since I cut the panel out, but I suspect you must be right. If it doesn't drain out the front it has nowhere to go.

I am working on my 76 280z. The recess behind the gas door was rusted out in one corner. See pictures below. I noticed that the backside was seam sealed all the way around. Where is gasoline or more importantly water supposed to go when it gets in there? Obviously you don't want to have gasoline leak on the back side of the quarter panel because the smell would be inside the cabin. Has anyone welded in a nipple in the corner and attached a hose that runs down and empties on the ground? That's my current plan. Thanks for any comments

Everything is sold!

I wanted to get recent opinions on a 5 lug swap for the front only for my 280z. I saw that silvermine and T3 make new hubs, anyobe have any experience with either? Any other good options? Needs to be 5x4.5" Seems like the 300zx option isn't as attractive due to the scarcity (and thus cost) of the hubs. Thanks

The kit I am using has a 5/8" bore on the upright/spindle specifically for the 5/8" bolt. The control arm bushings are still very slightly bigger though

Thanks to everyone for your comments- especially JMortensen, that was very insightful.

Can't disagree with you there. But I know others have used a bolt with the factory upright so knowing what they did and the long term results are would be important since it's the same principle.

Yes I did see that thread but no one really mentioned what they torqued the nut to. Some people apparently just torque the nut down, some use 2 nuts to limit the amount of compression.

Thanks grannyknot. I'm not really concerned if the bolt can take the torque, I'm more concerned about the fact that the spindle pin has shoulders on both ends which prevent the nuts from being tightened too far where the bolt has threads that would allow you to tighten the nut to the point where the upright would barely be able to turn because there would be so much friction between it and the control arm bushings.

I have researched replacing the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt. I know people have done this before. I am putting in the Ford super 8.8 kit from InvincibleExtremes (Vlad) and it replaces the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt. I also had the (dis)pleasure of removing my factory spindle pins. What I want to know is, when people have used a bolt, what do they tighten the nut torque to? I have poly bushings, and when the nut is tightened, the metal sleeves of the bushings will tighten against the metal bore of the new upright in the kit. I was worried about the metal to metal contact in th

Thanks for your comments

Hey guys, I have a 1976 280z. One of the previous owners decided to get rid of the fuel filler door and weld in a patch in its place. They did a horrible job and ruined the body line in that area. I don't need to have a fuel door but would really like to fix the area before I paint the car this summer. I would normally just use a stud welder+slide hammer and get it close then smooth with filler. However, the body line that runs right through this area is totally ruined and I don't think I can bring it back to an acceptable level. I know most vendors only sell quarter pane

Wow, thanks for the link. I did a bunch of searching but never came across that discussion. On a similar note, is there any good information on the rubber washers that go between the spindle and control arm? Can I just pick some up from a hardware store? I don't believe mine had any in there when I pulled everything apart.

I am putting new rubber bushings in my rear control arms. The outer bushings have a metal sleeve inside that sticks out further on one side than the other. I am trying to remember which way they go back in. I believe the longer part of the sleeve faces outward, towards the spindle pin nuts. Is that correct?

Nice progress. I am going to be installing my super 8.8 soon. When you say that "I elected to to just move the hole plate rather than drilling new holes", what do you mean by this? Did you cut out part of the cradle and reweld lower? Got any pics? Do you think slotting the holes would be too risky?

You might want to contact Cruzzar on this forum about his experience with the Saturn column. He has had issues with the wheel returning to center after a turn. Apparently a common issue. See his post in this thread: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131974-s30-and-caster/

I had been looking at the unit from Datsun Restomods. I had emailed the owner and that kit uses a Toyota motor. It's supposed to be launched this year. Actually, I just went to the site and now it says spring 2021. Might be worth contacting him: https://datsunrestomods.com/products/coming-soon-electric-power-steering-kit

Are the fenders special type, deluxe, or standard?

Lower prices listed

Any reason you aren't considering an off the shelf EPS solution?

Thanks to everyone for your comments. Another reason I am not excited to use the tension rod to increase caster is that I am not too keen on moving the wheels further forward in the wheel well. It seems that even at factory settings the wheels sit slightly forward.

Thanks guys. What I meant by a new top is that I could take a 1/8" plate with the shock holes drilled offset towards the rear and weld on the shock tower to give more caster. I have BC coilovers now. I think I could get 1/2" or so, maybe more. I'm in the middle of a resto mod build so I don't mind doing it if it's a good benefit. I don't plan on tracking the car, so I'm not concerned about the race benefits, I've just heard that the s30 has pretty poor camber from the factory. I've read that any adjustments on the tension rod aren't as beneficial because it puts the LCA bushin