fusion

Any downsides to tack welding nuts behind the sheet metal for ZG flares instead of using rivnuts? Car is still in primer. I was thinking of drilling holes slightly oversized and using flange nuts to give more area to weld to. Is there room to fish a flange nut between outer and inner sheet metal on the rears after the first cut on the outer skin? For the fronts I think it's pretty straightforward. Any comments?

Just to follow up on this, I purchased the vents and they are nicely built and look sweet but they do NOT fit without modifying. I had to remove at least 1/4" of material from the edges to get them to fit in the hood recesses.

Thanks jhm. I'll definitely look at moving the flares forward a bit.

I tack my exhaust pieces usually laying under the car and never back purge. It's just not practical or necessary. I have back purged the full welds but usually use solar flux instead as it's much cheaper and easier. No real risk in after turbo exhaust. Pre-turbo, back purge only. If you are building an extremely high end vehicle maybe back purge everything.

I went with 15" wheels so I can run a taller sidewall on the back for traction. This put me in a bit of a bind for front tire selection. I could either go with 26" tall or 24" tall. I chose 26, and it's a bit tight. I am planning on cutting the lip on the fenders when I install the flares. But I'll have to cut back the air dam as well, and I'm worried it will look funny with the tires being very close to the front of the wheel well, and a much larger gap in the back of the wheel well. Maybe this is really common with Z cars, I'm not sure. I'm not worried about rubbing on the top of the tire, just the front where it gets really close to the fender and air dam Is it common to use an adjustable tension rod to pull the wheel back? How far back can I reasonably expect to move it? How much does it affect driving stability? This is a street car, no road racing or autocross. Just trying to get a feel for what it really means for a street car. I could run a 24" tire up front, but don't love the look of a 2" difference in tire diameter.

I finally got spacers so I can mount my new front wheels and tires. I will be running ZG flares and the spacers push the wheels outboard so the tires are close to flush with the flares. Tires are 235 60 R15 (26" tall). The tires hit the bottom of the front fenders when they just start to turn outward. I still need to mount the flares and cut the metal which should free up space but I was just wondering if this was normal and if anyone uses an adjustable tension rod to pull the wheel back. Also, does anyone know why Nissan had both front and rear wheels not centered in the wheel wells?

Yeah, I ended up ordering the newer version of the BRE spoiler. Since I have the Type 1 air dam I feel that I shouldn't have to worry too much about the front end feeling light. I also hope my hood vents keep the pressure underhood to a minimum.

I have the 2 large vents in my 280z hood, I'm assuming that greatly reduces the drag from under hood air? Also, I am adding a 'splitter-like' aluminum plate to stiffen up the front air dam, will this help a lot? Similar to how grannyknot did it:

I would like to get a rear spoiler for my 280z. I like the look of the BRE style 1 piece spoilers. I have a couple of questions: 1) I have read that if you have a rear spoiler without a front spoiler, the front end becomes light and squirrelly at speed. Is this true, and what speed are we talking about? This will be a street car with a few passes at the dragstrip per year. Is the BRE spoiler short enough that this effect is minimal? Car will have a Xenon type 1 urethane air dam with aluminum supports so it doesn't deform at speed, but no splitter per day. 2) Is the 'real/original' BRE spoiler a good choice? ( https://www.datsun-garage.com/products/the-original-bre-rear-spoiler-1970-78-240z-260z-280z?variant=31473838391380 ). Anyone have any experience? Any pictures? Seems like the 6 mounting points is a good idea. 3) Any other good options? Thanks

Wow, that's nuts

I put this off until now doing other things. Would appreciate any additional measurements people have. I plan to start from the back and work forward. Looking for gap measurements on: Fender to hood Fender to door Door to quarter panel Hatch to body

Thanks man

I am going to rebuild my door hinges on my 76 280z. Is the Dorman 38397 still a good option? Has anyone been able to source the roller detent pin? One of mine is broken. Does the pin from a 280zx or any other vehicles work? Otherwise maybe I could drill/tap for a shoulder bolt.

Thanks jhm. Did you use any sealant?

Thanks for the replies. I'm sorry to hear of your experience with Vintage Rubber Ironhead. I am planning to go with them as they offer the no trim Cal style front and rear glass option. From what I've seen, most others have had good experiences. But this makes me nervous

I am painting my 280z and will be replacing every piece of weatherstripping on the car. I am going with Vintage Rubber front and rear windshield gaskets since I want to go 'Cal style' without the stainless trim. I am also going to use Kia Sportage weatherstrip for the doors and hatch. I believe these are the most critical seals on the car and people have had issues with some brands. But for the rest of the car, I am wondering if it's worth paying a premium for Vintage Rubber, or if the cheaper seals on Zcardepot (Precision?), or another vendor are totally fine Any comments welcome.

Has anyone powder coated or painted the hatch or door locks? I am going to paint my chrome/stainless trim black on my 280z but didn't know about the locks, especially the hatch lock, given the fact that it pushes in. Thanks

Thanks for the comments. I understand about having enough space so the tires don't bottom out. My question is how do you determine where to cut, when the tires hit the factory sheet metal before I can reach the bump stop.

I saw these vents online, has anyone tried them? I saw that @psyber_0ptix had the very first prototype. Wondering if anyone else has tried them? https://trackspecmotorsports.com/datsun-240-280-z-hood-vent

Thanks man, I appreciate it

I am preparing to paint my 1976 280z. I am doing panel alignment and fitment while the body is still in primer so I can make adjustments if necessary. I am looking for some panel gap numbers from people to get an idea of the ranges. Even better if you have done your own panel fitment and adjustment. A maximum and minimum if possible for each spot. Looking for gap measurements on: Fender to hood Fender to door Door to quarter panel Hatch to body Thanks in advance

Absolutely agree with the above. You shouldn't be spraying even Krylon without a respirator.

Nice work. Any reason why you made the tube from the tension rod area to the firewall curved instead of straight?

Thanks for the comments. I do have new wheels/tires for the car. As far as chassis stiffening, I do have the cage tied into the rear shock towers. I also have new box tubing frame rails, subframe connectors to the rear subframe, gussets to tie the rear subframe together better, tubing from the back of the tension control mounts to the firewall and tubing from the top of the fender horns back to the firewall. Unfortunately I don't have any room inside the engine compartment to add any other tubing to the strut towers. But this isn't a race car so I feel ok about it. I might add a removable strut tower brace. I did just pick up the T3 300mm front brakes today with the Black Friday deal, so I think the brakes should be good.

I was thinking about that but seems like it would be very difficult to get a good weld between the edge of 20ga sheet metal and a nut that is probably 6 times thicker.