fusion

Thanks to everyone for your comments- especially JMortensen, that was very insightful.

Can't disagree with you there. But I know others have used a bolt with the factory upright so knowing what they did and the long term results are would be important since it's the same principle.

Yes I did see that thread but no one really mentioned what they torqued the nut to. Some people apparently just torque the nut down, some use 2 nuts to limit the amount of compression.

Thanks grannyknot. I'm not really concerned if the bolt can take the torque, I'm more concerned about the fact that the spindle pin has shoulders on both ends which prevent the nuts from being tightened too far where the bolt has threads that would allow you to tighten the nut to the point where the upright would barely be able to turn because there would be so much friction between it and the control arm bushings.

I have researched replacing the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt. I know people have done this before. I am putting in the Ford super 8.8 kit from InvincibleExtremes (Vlad) and it replaces the spindle pin with a 5/8 bolt. I also had the (dis)pleasure of removing my factory spindle pins. What I want to know is, when people have used a bolt, what do they tighten the nut torque to? I have poly bushings, and when the nut is tightened, the metal sleeves of the bushings will tighten against the metal bore of the new upright in the kit. I was worried about the metal to metal contact in this area but this is the same as stock, right? I was considering putting a thin Delrin washer (thrust washer?)between the bushing sleeves and the upright. I will be using a nylock nut, and probably another jam nut just to be safe. But what torque should I tighten the nut to? I believe factory torque spec is 65 ft-lbs. Thanks

Thanks for your comments

Hey guys, I have a 1976 280z. One of the previous owners decided to get rid of the fuel filler door and weld in a patch in its place. They did a horrible job and ruined the body line in that area. I don't need to have a fuel door but would really like to fix the area before I paint the car this summer. I would normally just use a stud welder+slide hammer and get it close then smooth with filler. However, the body line that runs right through this area is totally ruined and I don't think I can bring it back to an acceptable level. I know most vendors only sell quarter panel patches that don't have this body line. I did find one vendor that does sell a panel that includes the body line, Wolf Steel: https://alfaparts.net/pics/nissan/nz5.htm 1) Does anyone have experience with Wolf Steel panels? 2) Are there any other vendors that sell a panel that includes the body line? 3) Any other thoughts? Thanks

Wow, thanks for the link. I did a bunch of searching but never came across that discussion. On a similar note, is there any good information on the rubber washers that go between the spindle and control arm? Can I just pick some up from a hardware store? I don't believe mine had any in there when I pulled everything apart.

I am putting new rubber bushings in my rear control arms. The outer bushings have a metal sleeve inside that sticks out further on one side than the other. I am trying to remember which way they go back in. I believe the longer part of the sleeve faces outward, towards the spindle pin nuts. Is that correct?

Nice progress. I am going to be installing my super 8.8 soon. When you say that "I elected to to just move the hole plate rather than drilling new holes", what do you mean by this? Did you cut out part of the cradle and reweld lower? Got any pics? Do you think slotting the holes would be too risky?

You might want to contact Cruzzar on this forum about his experience with the Saturn column. He has had issues with the wheel returning to center after a turn. Apparently a common issue. See his post in this thread: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131974-s30-and-caster/

I had been looking at the unit from Datsun Restomods. I had emailed the owner and that kit uses a Toyota motor. It's supposed to be launched this year. Actually, I just went to the site and now it says spring 2021. Might be worth contacting him: https://datsunrestomods.com/products/coming-soon-electric-power-steering-kit

Are the fenders special type, deluxe, or standard?

Lower prices listed

Any reason you aren't considering an off the shelf EPS solution?

Thanks to everyone for your comments. Another reason I am not excited to use the tension rod to increase caster is that I am not too keen on moving the wheels further forward in the wheel well. It seems that even at factory settings the wheels sit slightly forward.

Thanks guys. What I meant by a new top is that I could take a 1/8" plate with the shock holes drilled offset towards the rear and weld on the shock tower to give more caster. I have BC coilovers now. I think I could get 1/2" or so, maybe more. I'm in the middle of a resto mod build so I don't mind doing it if it's a good benefit. I don't plan on tracking the car, so I'm not concerned about the race benefits, I've just heard that the s30 has pretty poor camber from the factory. I've read that any adjustments on the tension rod aren't as beneficial because it puts the LCA bushing in a bind, and you don't get much adjustment anyways. Thanks

Anyone have any input?

I understand that a stock 280z has about 2-3 degrees of caster. I have read that usually more caster is better. For a 100% street car, would there be any advantage to having more caster? Would I notice a difference at high speeds? I am planning on electric power steering. If so, has anyone ever slotted or made a new plate for the shock tower top to move the top of the strut or coilover back? Thanks

Great build so far! Did you use any of the custom tools Ford specifies in the instructions to replace the yoke on the diff? I need to do mine soon. Any tips or pictures of that? Did you just use a standard inch pound torque wrench to get the torque-to-turn measurement?

If anyone is interested in doing this mod, I have purchased a bunch of the parts but am now selling as I am focusing on other areas of the car first. Sale thread here: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131962-5-lug-front-mustang-spindle-conversion-parts/

I was planning on converting my car to front mustang 5 lug hubs and brakes as detailed in this thread: I bought most of the parts and started putting it together but I just have too many other things going on with the car right now (roll cage, turbo build, fuel system, etc) and don't want to mess with the front suspension right now. My loss, your gain. Pair of front lower control arms with the mustang ball joint pocket already welded in place. Purchased the 280z control arms and the mustang control arms and the welding and fitment done by Vlad (invincibleextremes). Welded 1/2" back to allow for easier wheel fitment. I also did the horrible job of removing of the old bushings. Ball joints that are in there were degraded from the welding heat and need replaced after everything is installed. Nice thing about these is that you don't have to pull your control arms to modify. I paid $250 for these all said and done. Selling for $150. Pair of 2014 mustang spindles. These are low mile units that are in excellent shape. Comes with ABS sensors and Vlad adapter plates to weld to the coilover. Paid $290, sell for $125. Pair of 2005-2009 front mustang calipers. These will clear some 15" wheels. Great shape, include caliper brackets. Paid $100, sell for $50. Prices do not include shipping. If anyone is interested in the whole lot, I will sell everything for $275.

What about using the LS tank with Holley Hydramat? Should alleviate most fuel movement concerns with aftermarket pumps and regulators. https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/stopping-fuel-starvation-holley-hydramat/ Otherwise, do any vendors offer a custom EFI tank for the 280z?

But if the control arms are flipped, does it put the coilover lower mount in the same position as factory, or is it moved back?

So after thinking about this more, I'm assuming that the reason for needing to move the top of the coilover back is because even though flipping the control arms moves the wheel back close to the original location, the location of the coilover lower mount is too far back, thus requiring the upper mount moved back. Is this correct?