randy 77zt

stockton pnp is good for datsun parts.

get a book on the carbs.its probably from a float level thats too high.those things arent the hot set up for a street car.to make them work they need to be jetted on a dyno or install a wideband o2 system and learn about jetting carbs.those carbs have many adjustments.stock su's with some mods work better for street.

the f150 recall takes about 5 minutes to do.it is a new design pressure switch and a new harness plug for the master cylinder.if you dont have time then unplug the connector on the master cylinder.

pnp in california(of mexifornia) is getting to be a ripoff.that core charge is a rip off.who ever brings anything back.maybe if you spoke spanish you might get a break.the last time i was out looking for a240sx tps(they were all gone)i found a 87 300zxt complete.i returned 2 days later for the diff and the whole car was gone.sometimes i just pay somebody to pull the parts for me.i sent an apprentice at work out there for a diesel crank on 1/2 price day.it was worth the $80 i paid not to wrestle with nasty black diesel oily junk.

if i had a rear wheel drive car with a good engine driven fan and the car had a/c and was used in traffic i wouldnt switch to electric fan..on my z when a/c is used the fan clutch will lock up 90+ degrees at stop lights.then it makes some noise and goes away.but since i work on cars for a living its not a hobby anymore and second guessing oem engineering isnt the way i spend my time off.

you just need common o-ring injectors as used on late model cars.look on ebay.there are guys selling new injectors in sets of 8 at a good price.if your engine will be na(non turbo) some 24 or 30 lb injectors will be fine.i have 42 lb lucas disc type o-ring injectors on my l28et.you will need a fuel rail and have to fab some brackets to hold the fuel rail down.you will have to fab some sort of tps sensor.best source for info on cross breeding parts is the http://www.msefi site.these manifolds were not meant for the bolt on tuner type of guy.i heard they wont make them any more.you really need some sort of programmable efi system to make this work to its full potential.this manifold is just the start of a long project if everything is to work correctly.looks like it uses a lokar hot rod throttle cable.like a lt1 chevy type cable .look on lokar site at pictures.i made an adapter plate from oem l28 tps sensor and bolted 240sx tps on top of the plate.throttle shaft is probably standard 5/16 d shaft.

bp6es gapped at .035

after you mess around with old nissan junk and hope it works by that time you could have had megasquirt running.if you install new wiring & sensors then you know where you are starting from.moby's map i downloaded fired my car right up.

module was a recall for overheated fan wiring.those are circuit breakers like the breakers used on power windows.i dont get the big idea on taurus fans even though i work as a ford tech.they suck a lot of amps.newer cars have 100+ amp alternators.if you get a spal fan spec sheet you can find a unit that pulls 1/2 the amps and still makes good cfm rating.most rear wheel drive cars use a fan clutch and a belt driven fan.the fan freewheels most of the time anyway.

i cracked the winshields in the boat i had and had to build some new pieces out of lexan.got a sheet from a place in the midwest that sells real ge lexan.it had a nice dark tint to it.it would make a good z hatch glass.you could cut it your self.probably save 40 or 50 lbs.you have to use special polish to take care of it though.nice place to lose weight-in something mounted up high.

did an engine rebuild on a original super 7 once.it was the ford 1600 with the dohc cosworth head with 2 weber dcoe.put an electric fan with honda fan switch screwed into water port on the head.car was a street legal go cart.scary looking at the bottem of a truck while drivng on the freeway.it was rh drive.but the car was so narrow you really didnt notice it much.there is supposed to be some kind of 7 kit car locally with a honda s2000 drietrain in it .supposed to run high 10's.havent seen it in the flesh.always wanted to build a d sports racer car for the street though.with the modern parts we have(shocks ,brakes,engines) a 7 would be a fun car if it was well set up.

get checked out by a doctor.it might make you some money.or you might be wishing 20 years from now you had that neck fixed correctly.

i work as a ford dealer tech.ford's problems come from telling thier parts vendors(they dont build the parts to avoid union labor)what thay will pay for the parts.and an acceptable failure rate.like that cruise cancel pressure switch that mounts to the master cylinder.it leaks brake fliud into the wires and has burned a few garages down.or focus front brakes .the pads are designed to wear the rotors out .so when you mic the rotors when the pads are gone the rotors are at or under spec.i have done many $500 dollar focus front brake jobs.biggest fiasco lately is all the recalls on 6.0 liter diesel trucks.like the trans recall that pays 3.5 hours to install a new reverse planatary gearset in the trans.if you get a flat rate tech that does this to your truck in 3.5 hours i would be certain that your truck will never be the same again.my brother has a 2003 diesel truck with 7.3l and it has never been back to the dealer -except for a tire recall but he had 40k on old tires so he got a set free.most shops are flat rate pay system.so cars get butchered up becuase the techs cant make the time limit.do some research on flat rate pay system for techs sometimes.i worked at a flat rate shop for years.2 monthes ago i switched to a union shop.but the contract is up so if it goes flat rate i will be driving a truck instead.i am totally burned out and my z is in pieces and it might be for sale becuase i hate working on anything now.in 20 years i have had 3 hernia surgeries,dislocated knee,and arthritis in my hands.but my 96 e150 van runs strong.

i moved front suspension pivot point up 3/4" and out 3/4"/then installed gound control coil overs and camber plates.run 3.2 to 3.5 negative camber at the track and 1.2 on the street.i havent checked for toe change during suspension travel.the pivot points are behind the ball sockits on the rack.i straightend the outer tie rods bends so they are straight.

working as a ford dealer tech has some perks-like free brake fluid .i use this at the track.no problems .if the cars hasnt been on track for awhile-9 monthes or more-i bleed and install new fluid.i have heard the silicon fluid is dot 5 .some brake systems rubber parts dont like dot 5.and it doesnt mix with standard fluid so i have heard.so i will stick with my cheap stuff.i had some kid at a track day telling me i needed to spend $12+ bucks a can for dot 5 designer stuff.i would rather spend it on race gas instead -keeps pinging noise down.

used a 240mm (turbo size) daiken clutch for years.it took a 5000 rpm sidestep at sac dragway to get it to let go.it slipped and overheated at about 60' of the line and slipped all the way down.when it cooled i used it for 3 more years.daiken was oem builder for nissan.do not use any rebuilt kragen/autozone junk.some of those 1 day clutch shops can get daiken kits cheap.i put in a 240mm act street set up .i havent tried to make it slip .i wont run a puck type clutch.i used to work at a shop that repaired trucks .we put some puck type clutches in 3/4 ton ford diesel pick-ups that were towing heavy loads.the pucks did not wear out-they wore a deep groove in the flywheel.the fancy stuff isnt always needed.the daiken clutch couldnt hold on a 15psi dyno run either.but when it cooled it still worked.iin a na car a 240mm oem style daiken would be fine.

the spacer between the pinion bearings IS NOT a crush sleave.the pinion bearing preload is set by shims.if you roll out the diff try spinning the pinion gear by hand .find somebody that knows these diffs.if you fix it before it is run you wont have many damaged parts.i build rear ends at work.if the diff carrier(lsd part) was swapped the pinion gear and bearings didnt have to be messed with.but you had rust parts.the shim the sets the preload might be missing know.if you store a diff leave old oil and cover on it.

i ran a 3" 19" long oval magnaflow behind l28 turbo.muffler was mounted under drive shaft where cat convertor used to be.exhaust was all 3" mandrel bends.car was quiet.car is apart and muffler was torn up from an offroad trip at thunderhill .i will be doing this system again.magnafow has no baffles -just a curved perforated tube with packing around it .good for turbo applications.some of the loud magnaflows are small , short units more like resonators.there is a 2005 mustang at work with a 4.0 v6 and x pipe and dual magnaflows.but mufflers are about 14" long and 5" around and straight through.car is loud.i wont use baffle type mufflers behind a turbo.if you run some pipe behind muffler its quieter.but there are only 2 places to put a muffler on a z.and %90 of z owners put muffler in stock spot-that limits you to a short muffler.

usually countershaft bearings go out because of leak at speedo drive gear .trans running low on oil.82 trans has closer 1st to 4th but more od in 5th-just the unit for 3.9 or 4.1 rear.it also has a different pivot point on shift linkage so shifts are a little shorter.seals for speedo drive are cheap at nissan.i use a 82 trans behind my turbo l28 -it drives nice with redline mtl in it.a nice smooth shift.

my favorite sports car mag -as i use my car for open track sessions it has more useful info.those tuner mags are for kids to jerk off into.i think some of the info is over alot of people's heads unless the have used a car for autox or track days.the kiddies wouldnt understand why my car has no stereo system.

i dont know about up north but here in cali alot of those cars are owned by rich kids that cant do thier own work-they use daddy's visa.they havent been smoked by a v-8 yet.

put bigger throttle body and port stock efi manifold and run megasquirt with wide band 02.then you will be the master of how much fuel is used.twm makes some throttle bodys that bolt where su's went.with megasquirt you would get more airflow that way.i messed around with oem 280zxt efi for years,it gets to the point of wasting time vs performance gain.

get wide band o2 set up to tune the dell ortos.if you are running rich the cat will over heat.if the car was never originally equipped with a cat i would not install 1.cars that had oem cats had heat shielding installed.the oem mounting position was in center of car under driveshaft.do not mount a cat close to a gas tank.the cat was not installed on any car to be a full time exhaust mop-up.it was only installed for idiots that dont tune thier cars up and brief moments like when the throttle gets closed at speed.the ideal situation is to burn all fuel in the engine.if you really want to help the enviroment get a good efi system.i have seen well running efi cars pass a emissions test with gutted cats.

since i have 10 thumbs on a computor i tapped a untaped hole in 82zxt thermostat housing and used gm sensor.pipe thread taps are at loews,orchard,home depot.

what part of norcal?i have a 2002 yamaha fz1.