randy 77zt

try another mat sensor?or check your sensor with dvom?sounds like a short to ground somewhere.

thnanks guys i will check out the ini. file.that file is not very user friendly though.at least the car is making it to work and runs strong.

twm makes some weber pattern throttle bodies for efi.sell the webers.i ripped out the old 81zxt efi system in my 77 and went to megasquirt.along with a t3/t4 turbo,intercooler,wideband o2 datalogger.car is a daily driver.

the air/fuel ratio window and the target air/fuel window reads 3 to 4%.the gauge scale goes from 10 to 19.my innovate wideband gauge reads around 14to1.some where i dont have a setting correct.any suggestions.had a high rpm missfire but changed the dwell ms to 3.5 from 1.5 and high rpm miss is gone.now i am just working on learning how to use the megatune software.software is my weakness.

a turbo car with intercooler would need a huge fan to get a good dyno number.dynojets are popping up like crazy around here.but going to the cheap guy close to home probably will waste your money.

i use the stock 280 zxt fpr with my megasquirt.but since i switched to o-ring injectors the fpr is mounted to the strut tower.the oem zxt efi system ran ok on my car but but it is a fun killer for a turbo engine.i was looking at sds but i decided to try megasquirt.my opinion about ms is that it is educational but a lot of work reasearching .and i am a moron with computor software so that made ms harder.the owner of sds uses it on his homebuilt airplane with a subaru engine.i call that putting faith in your product.probably %95 of efi system problems come from poor installation.good luck.

i re-clocked my turbo and used 2 1/8 u-bends from summit.the hot side pipe runs under the oil pan and into the ic on the rh side of the car.part of the challenge on my car is i wanted to keep the very cold factory a.c.

sometimes car dealerships upgrade alignment racks and remove older models.call your local hunter rep.since i work at a dealership i align my car before and after track days.the reason for that is tarck and daily driver set up is much different.i havent used wheel scales to balence my car though.since alignment racks are level you could use the air jacks on the alignment rack to slide some scales under the wheels .like some of those longacre scales.

i have seen ads for lotus 7 style kit cars that run hayabusa engines.this would make a street legal go kart.there is a lotus 7 kit car locally with a honda s2000 drivetrain.car is supposed to run 0-60 in low 3 second range.

i have been running on a borrowed map from moby and car seems okay except at high boost.just installed the innovate motorsports lc1/xd1 kit .the guage shows 14.5 to 14.7 on the freeway.on accel it showing 13.5 or so.the ms isnt reading correctly but i havent set it for the wide band 02 yet.at high boost its cutting out like a rev limiter or boost cut is coming on.i hooked up the lap top and i cant remember how to get into the ms because i did the install last summer but just got intercooler and wideband hooked up.i am not a computor geek.i have worked as a ford dealer tech for 20 years .i also a 2 year degree in electronics but software baffles me.i am just very happy the car is back to daily driver/work car status.

if you get a 75 or 76 tank it has a 10mm out and a 5/16 return .but then the question is about the old tank being rusty inside.

my boost gauge has been there for years.i am not into the ricey-hang-it-all-over the place look.the original look does it for me-sleeper car .

one time i striiped down a totaled mustang 5.0 that was hit in the rear and built another 5.0 from a 4 cylinder body.me and 2 other guys loaded the unit body onto a flat trailer by hand.1 guy in front and a guy on each rear fender.unit bodies are light.its scary thinking about getting into a wreck in a unit body car.but would most people want to climb into a car with a full cage to goto the store?

it will work but you will have to cut the fire wall and work on the heater-or put a smaller heater in.stock motor mounts will probably bolt in-you just start from there and work back.

if you race the car check your rule books-scca wont pass a summit fuel cell.most clubs have strict rules on fuel cells.to put a fuel cell in just for looks doesnt make sense to me.if the car is fuel injected study the way oem tanks are made.

i put mine on the bulkhead behind the drivers seat.i put the ms box on the other side behind passenger seat.i used a rs motorsports wire harness kit and the wire was plenty long to get from the motor to the back.

vr sensor was from a 2005 4.0 v6 mustang cam position sensor-510six has an inside connection for ford parts

mine is on the cold side tank of the ic.i drilled a hole and threaded .its kind of hidden.

thanks for posting your ms&s map.my car has been running in the garage but i got it on the road today and put about 40 miles on it .it runs very strong.got on the throttle out in the country and it barked the tires hard in 3rd with out really trying.its off to work tommorrow and i hope the z will be back on daily driver status because i need the gas milage.still have to get some kind of wide band 02 setup on it but at least your map lets the car run good enough to drive.project took a year but thats because i work on cars for a living and i am tired when i get home.parts list-stock zxt motor,42lb lucas injectors,cherry hall effect sensor,home made fuel rail,rs autosport wiring kit,walbro 255 pump,gm fuel filter with an adaptor fittings from kinsler,twm throttle body with 240sx tps,chinese 240sx ic with cast elbows welded on,home made hot side ic tubing running underneath the oil pan -used u bends from summit,cool side ic tube was made from ford diesel truck ic tubing along with air tube for air filter,k&n rc 1520 air filter,turbo is 60-1 compressor-stage 5 turbine in machined nissan housing.scotties down pipe with 3" exhaust.the megasquirt fires the oem coil/power transistor directly.the hall effect sensor runs form magnets in the flywheel.i wanted to eliminate most of the old datsun parts but the ignition seems fine except tach doesnt read until 2000 rpm.might have to change the milliseconds on the ignition pulse.now its back to the garage to get the throttle return spring/feel correct.

there are not any hot looking girls around here-they are all hippos with 3 kids all with different last names.and that is by the time they are 20.

there are lots of great sports cars in $28k to $34k range ex honda s2000 subaru wrx sti,350z or g35,mitsu evo,or a low mile 04 zo6,or used porsche boxter.i think i would buy a zo6 becuase i find the high rpms of a smaller engine kind of annoying.had a honda s2000 out when i worked at my last job and liked it but it was like a very precise go kart and needed revs to run.test drove wrx and i thought the turbo to be very laggy and basically a stripped car with race car parts hung on it.havent drove 350z.or a rx8.

the thought of have a 40'x60' steel building for your hobbies that is separate from the house sounds good to me.just make sure the misses has a slot in the daily driver garage.there is never enough garage space.

would 2 of them be too small for a 540" chevy in a boat?might have a home for 2

i ran a stock replacement daiken for years in my 77z /turbo conversion and had great luck with it.only time it let go was on a 5000 rpm sidestep and sac drag strip.it cooled off and worked 2 more years.it broke loose again on a chassis dyno run but always worked later.i have a 240mm act street set up in it but car hasnt been running since i am working on megasquirt install.the act clutch has a stiffer pedal feel and is a is harder to let out without chatter.i will see soon if it holds on a dyno run.hope to see 300hp.clutch is rated to 400 hp.for just a daily driver the oem daiken should work.avoid reman junk.those 1 day clutch shops can get new daiken kits at around $160 or so.kit comes with disc,pressure plate,bearings,line up tool.

my 1400sf 3/2 house on small corner lot in central california is worth $350k-its time to move and let the bros from south of the border have cali back.