MikeBZ

I have a non webbed N47 for sale but it has the EGR. I'm looking for 60 shipped to you http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96628-turbo-parts-and-n47-manifold/page__p__907908__fromsearch__1#entry907908

Not mine 83 Turbo Z complete- possible donor car in Oakland Ca http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2114473949.html 1983 Datsun 280ZX 6 cylinders engine Automatic transmission clean title great running restorable collectable classic 510-290-7176

I had an S2000 pre kid. It was an awesome car but needed BOOST. They respond well to supercharging (easier) and turbo's. But I to am not much of a convertible guy, I never really had the top down. Check out this forum http://www.s2ki.com/forums But if I had to chose one from your list it'd be the 911, great racing support, classic lines, and they design the car for drivers like us.

My buddy and I have a running joke where we impersonate Don LaFontaine (the guy who did all the voice work for movie trailers RIP) Fastest and most furioust ? Even Faster and More Furiouser? (furious-sir) Furiously Fastest 3rd Fast 4th Furious Vin Diesel is "Double F" The soup hit the nail on the head when the last one came out http://www.eonline.com/uberblog/the_soup/b107586_more_soups_on_gas_up_fast_furious.html

The F54 block didnt just come in turbo cars. They were in all 81-83 ZX's. The turbo cars got dished pistons and non-turbo got flat-tops. We need a little more info as far as what you need to upgrade. Read through all the sticky's in this forum http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/18-turbo-supercharger/ If you want to build a L28ET I recommend getting dished pistons.

They rebuilt and modified one on speedchannels' "chop cut rebuild" Less than 3,000 were made, but they are HEAVY

I agree, for a car with mods or custom features take about half what you have in it for a good starting price. Unless your last name is Foose, or Trepanier.... I've seen a few primered turbo 240z's for sale here in CA for around 3500 to 4500. I'm not sure if your car is painted matte/flat or if its primer. Also I'm not sure of the smog laws where you are, but here anything after 1975 still needs a bi-annual smog inspection. In the 5-7k price range I would expect a pretty turn-key / sorted out car. One that didn't need any major upgrades only minor accessories/customization.

85 goes to 12v source of my ignition "Hot when key is on" 86 goes to ground 87 to the msd small red wire 30 to the Battery Should work now If not try a new relay, you might have damaged the 1st one when the wires were crossed

Yes, use the factory wiring to trigger the relay so the key will kill the power, Autozone sells a relay in the fog light section for 5-6 bucks.

Use a switched relay to power on the MSD, like a relay for a fuel pump or fog lights. The relay is opened when you turn the key off and that should kill all power to the MSD box and shut the car off. You could also install a toggle switch that could double as a theft deterrent since the car will just crank and not fire with the switch off.

Radiators from 70-78 will interchange fairly easily http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx You could also use the BASE (not HD) radiator for 1984-1986 V8 Camaro’s, but you will need to make brackets to mount it. I was at the Pick-n-pull in rocklin over the weekend and the radiator in the 75 280z was not worth buying.

The 15/16 master refers to the brake master cylinder on ZX's. I Would look for a Tilton 7/8 master http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-74-875U/?rtype=10 Have you adjusted the slave cylinder on the transmission that accuates the clutch fork ?

240 Z imsa kit 3100cc triple 45 webers - $3500 (Bay area) 71 240Z 3100cc diesel block triple 45 webers.Come here it run.Its jacked up cause a back brake drum stuck.15x9 front 15x12 rear.Needs little body work and brakes done.Runs real strong low low miles on rebuild.4.11rear gear.Call if interested (707)712-0118 Location: Bay area, CA http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/2018249896.html

I have one for sale from a 75 280z http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95715-gauges-distributor-bumper-overrides-calipers/

Flanges / stub axles shipped

I have a pair from a 77 280z R200 I could do $50 shipped to you in wyoming

I'm interested in the clean one for $40. I'll call you after I get off work around 6:00 Thanks, Mike

My fan exploded and shredded my radiator.... I'm looking for a clean good condition replacement. Let me know, thanks

Yeah the previous owner painted it silver, dont know how long ago. Could have been a factor, but I think I just had an old fan who's days were numbered...... In the 3rd pic I posted I did not bolt the fan back on the pulley, I just set it on for the photo. When I took the fan off after the damage all of the mounting bolts were tight.

There isnt any major damage to the underside of the hood, a few knicks and dings but nothing indicating pieces of fan blade at high velocity. The water pump is brand new, no play. It's the angle of the photo, theres a good three inches space between the blade and the stock fuel line. (I set the fan back on the pulley for the photo, I know its not bolted on)

Hadn't thought of that, I went out and shook the car back and forth by the engine and the mounts seem pretty firm. I also put a jack at the back of the trans and the trans mount is good too..

The radiator is not that old, and is mounted very firmly using the 4 stock mounting bolts. The core support is solid as is the radiator core and surround. There is one major wound to the radiator I think the other cuts are from the fan blades breaking and flying off. Do you know how much clearance theres supposed to be between the fan blades and radiator stock ? I dont know if my clutch fan is original, I think they started using plastic fans in late 71 or 72. Earlier were metal.

I've only had my Z running for a little while. I've taken it around the block for a few shake down runs. But today I got on it a little (4500 rpm) and my stock clutch fan let go and took out my radiator.... Luckily I only put water in it and was close to home. Its the stock clutch fan that came with my 71. And a stock type replacement radiator. No shroud, and the fan was 1.25 inches away from the radiator.. Was it too close to the radiator, or was the fan just having a bad day ?

Yeah the mechanical are quicker for oil pressure, as far as mounting the warning light in the dash you could use an "L" type bracket to recess them, I put one in the clock spot.

I would add idiot lights for oil pressure and temp. Autometer sells some that are the size of shift lights and they work well. I think using electric gauges is a good idea especially for racing. I had the feed line to my oil pressure gauge break and spray hot oil on my legs and feet. Now I stick with electric gauges I agree on using relays, I put them as close to the device as possible so the current doesnt travel as far. HD switches can handle the load as well, but then that current is running from the battery to the switch then down to the device creating a lot of heat along the wire.