MikeBZ

Search through this topic, there are a lot of factors http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124666

I have a set of 6 ton stands, but yeah the car never seems to be high enough. I'm usually working blind and going by feel..... A buddy of mine bought a car stand from a dealer that was going out of business, the kind they'd use to display the best cars on the lot. But I'm like most, no room or budget for a lift or anything.....

Half what they cost new is a good starting point. As far as the box, that could vary depending on size and quality of craftsmanship

Here's a few things I would bring. Spare distributor or at least cap/rotor and internals Spare Coil and a few extra wires Universal radiator hose- flex type Various size hose clamps Short sections of various fuel and vacuum hose Timing light An old beach towel to laydown on while working on the ground Empty Gallon size container to carry gas, coolant, etc I would make sure your water pump, fuel pump, and charging system are all in excellent condition My dad and I drive our 49 plymouth to shows and you'd think we were planning a road side engine swap with all the stuff we carry. But we'd rather overplan than under estimate Good luck on your trip

I would say that most people with a "clean" SBC swap probably have at least 7-10k in their car. As with any swap you have to look at the systems that have to be changed or upgraded. Fuel system, cooling system, exhaust etc..... Make a dream list of parts you need to buy then add 25-30% to that figure. Just my .02 cents

That was my last resort, most of the thermostat/inlet gaskets are around a dollar, and I wouldnt have to take the time to cut one out. Looks like I'll have to buy the whole kit like Flatblack280 said.... Or just make one

I need the gasket for the lower water inlet / outlet. The guys at the parts store just scratch their head and try to sell me a thermostat gasket. Anyone know the part number. This is the part i'm talking about Thanks

Your Z is sick, thats a super clean swap. I had a feeling the land rover was an RC. I also frequent rccrawler.com.......

I dont think you'll find many people on this site who think their datsun isnt "worth it". Unless they just broke something expensive... You bought the car for you right, it sounds like your dad wants you to spend your money on something HE likes.... He can get his own project, and I'm sure he'll come around. People who like working on cars usually enjoy working on anything. Turning a wrench feels the same whether its metric or standard...... As far as the garage though, I agree with your dad. Its easier to setup and organize before your half way through a rebuild project...

Which one is best depends on a lot of factors. I take it this is going in the 70 240z listed in your signature? I'd recommend getting the larger 2+2 flywheel and clutch setup, or an aftermarket setup like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY-Clutch-FIDANZA-Flywheel-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX_W0QQitemZ310094704749QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item483315b06d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1171%7C240%3A1318

Yeah I ditched the mechanical pump on the head and just use an electric pump near the tank. I dont know why a 260Z would need two pumps. If you put on a higher flow electric pump you'll need to add a regulator. Disadvantages might be- heavier electrical draw on battery, noise of pump, or if the pump fails you wont have the mechanical one to get you home. (none of these reasons would prevent me from just having the elec pump out back)

I mounted it near the tank where the electric one would be on your car. I put a filter before the pump and one close to the carbs. Its easier for a pump to "push" fuel than to pull it.

I like black wheels, gives the car a more racy look Maybe leave the outer lip un-painted ? You want to lightly scuff the wheel with fine paper to remove any clear coat or left over polish/cleaner. Otherwise the paint will flake off

Try a Carter CRT-P4070,or a similar pump. I use this one with a regulator and no front pump on the head. 4-6 psi is good for the SU's. Check your float level on the carbs to.

I've heard of high mileage rings breaking when the piston pops out of the block, but all 6 broken ?? Were there any pieces of the rings in the oil pan? I've heard L-series short blocks can go 250k between rebuilds if not abused...

Rear main seal or rear freeze plug in the back of the block. Unlikely the freeze plug since they are usually hard to remove. But like BRAAP said there's a first time for everything. You could have also thrown a rod through the back of the block, but something tells me you'd have noticed a loss in performance..........

If you have a lot of time to play and swap motors etc.... then I would go with the turbo motor. You mentioned you wanted to swap for another engine down the road? If it's an L series motor build then go with slown280z recommendation. If its another type of engine just save your money and use what you have for now.

Depending on if the head was shaved, and how much, you might need spacers under the cam towers.

Very clean ! You could find some deeper groove pulleys or put fender washers on the top and bottom of the pulley to help prevent the cable from popping off

Check this site out for tips on adjusting your carb. Could be the float level is off, or idle adjustment screws are out of whack http://www.holley.com/TechService/FAQ.asp?category=Carburetor

I believe the Stock weight is 80 or 85 depending on climate. I'm sure you'll get a lot of debate when it comes to brands and weight, especially if your talking about oil for an LSD. I have an open R200 and use mobil one 90w

Header not help the performance ??? It will flow much better than the srock exhaust manifold. Two choices for a header 6 into 1, or 3 into 2 design Each have there advantages. Search the forums to see which one suits your needs best

I'd go with what you have assembled. Maybe check ebay for a cheaper 390 carb. Holley's are easy to rebuild. I think the L20 head has really small valves and wouldnt work on a 2.8 liter motor very well

I vote for the LS1, the aftermarket is there and as mentioned earlier you can get an accurate history. Also think when the last RB26 rolled off the assembly line......... They still make brand new crate LS1's.

I 2nd that, fuel leak or super rich. But unless your pushing serious horsepower with a cam and lots of compression, 6 mpg could also be a sign a serious problem. Check your spark plugs, and if you can do a compression test and cylinder leak down test.