MikeBZ

It seems most of us are in the same boat. I'm the "go-to" guy for shade tree mechanic work and diagnosis. But most of my Z projects were a one man show. I have my dad who's an hour away if I need a 2nd pair of hands. But now that me and my circle of friends are in our 30's, the good ole days of working on cars all hours of the night and making "noise" after 8pm are over..

I have an L28 in my 240z with a 6-1 header. At first I had just a 30 inch long cherrybomb glasspack using 2-1/2 pipe diameter routed all way back. The glasspack was mounted in the trans tunnel area with the pipe exiting in the stock location. It sounded great, not really like a ricer honda, but it was way too loud.... I was just asking for a fix it ticket... If you are a noobie go to muffler shop, or MSA sells a kit to bolt to your stock manifold http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC27/15-6304 A muffler shop might be able to beat that price installed. Here is the exhaust sub forum http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/21-exhaust/ Good luck

Pepboys sells 10mm spacers, you for sure need longer studs. If you show up at a track and the studs dont stick out past the lug nuts you might not make it through tech inspection.

Yeah, I'm looking for something painted. GLWS and thanks in advance for your service to our country

I would start by having the Alternator tested by itself and make sure its not faulty. Then I would break apart the harness by the alternator and inspect / replace any sketchy wires. Something might be shorted out inside the harness..

Emailed him, but havent heard back...... I assume you mean this Z http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/1919383167.html Not sure if its dirt or shadows, but the rockers and lower fenders look rusty..

A deal on a clean 280z recently fell through for me so I'm on the hunt for a clean 75 280z. I'm only interested in a 75, I'm hoping for something clean and not needing a whole lot. 5 speed, not converted to carbs, decent interior, and not primered.... I have about 3k to spend, so I DONT expect something perfect, but I'm not looking for a ground up rebuild. Thanks I attached a pic of the car that fell through, hopefully someone here bought it.

Wow, Looks like your off to a great start !!

Check out this sticky in this forum http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57506-240z-260z-or-280z-chassisbody-differences/ Front brakes / Master Cylinder will swap, rear brakes won't. (Different wheel cylinders) The drivetrain will swap as well.

I just thought of this so sorry for the long delay, but would I need the carb to have a vacuum advance port ? I have my vacuum advance hooked to a port on the balance tube between the intakes, (same place my brake booster gets vacuum)

For sure Steel, only with a steel hood could you put louvers in like that after its made. For fiberglass you would have to mold them in while laying the mat/resin..

It's tough without pics, but its for sure a dedicated drag car now unless someone wants to try and remove the tubs and solid rear end. And since its now a "drag car" that limits the market tremendously. I would offer 2500 to 3k based on the parts value. It sounds like its been sitting on their lot for a while, and cash is king in the car biz.. Make sure you make an offer in writing and if they turn you down, email your offer to the GM of the dealership, you'd be suprised how effective that is.

It's tough to give a ball park price without pics. But its sounds clean from your description. I think 5500 is a fair price, 6k might be as well. I know I would have gladly spent an extra 1-2k for a car with less rust...

Great job, looks professional !

Still, what is the benefit of going this route vs. getting the SUs set up properly? Unless the throttle shafts are leaking, it's very simple to rebuild SUs. To me its purely a cost benefit, SU's are tough to beat when setup and dialed in. I've rebuilt mine but they just dont want to perform right. (like you said, I think my throttle shafts are leaking) Ztherapy or other expert rebuilds are more expensive than the webers So for me its just cost, I know good SU's will out perform these webers, I haven't given up on my SU's yet, but the webers might be an option for me.

They do look like DGV down drafts, but they are actually side draft Dual 45 MCHH carburetors. They are SU replacements for triumph TR6 carbs. The air cleaners in the pic look just like the DGV down draft ones for sure though. My only concern is that they are designed for a 2.4L engine and I have an L28. But in the prior post I linked the guy said they worked pretty well.

I've been thinking about these webers, but am still researching about them. There was a post about them a few weeks ago, but you'll have to fab up some linkage. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/91271-side-drafts/ They're only $300 for the setup http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk165.htm I too am battling my SU's, I've freshened them up and have been balancing and adjusting for a few weeks with little improvement.

rockauto.com has the complete wheel cylinders I ordered a pair for my Z after finally locating rebuild kits, only to find out my old ones had been rebuilt several times and honed out to far to seal properly I ordered the new ones from rock auto they work great. Part Price Core Quantity Total 1974 NISSAN 260Z 2.6L 2565cc L6 2x1BBL ® [L26] Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Cylinder DORMAN Part # W96878 {#44101-N3001} Rear Left; Bore = 7/8" A $43.79 $0.00 1 $43.79 DORMAN Part # W96879 {#44100-N3001} Rear Right; Bore = 7/8" B $43.89 $0.00 1 $43.89

Sweet car ! Did powerfab build it?

I agree, if your stock manifold has a leak get the header. But on a stock L6 you might not notice much of a performance gain with the header. (compared to V8 cars when you install headers)

Just wondering if this is a members car, and if there was a build thread. Anyone know if he's on here ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-240Z-V8-565-HP-/180535068847?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2a08ba88af

I bought the intake from the junkyard, but yeah they sell on here for 75+, much more if shaved and painted as I'm sure you know (I've seen your shaved intakes here for sale)

I’ve been working on a turbo swap on and off for about 18 months. I’ve put together a list of the parts I’ve bought or plan to buy to complete the swap. I know it’s easier and cheaper to look for a complete turbo motor swap and go that route, and you would think I would have been able to find one considering I live near Sacramento CA and there are 4 pick-n-pulls within 45min of my house. I go at least twice a month to all 4 and I have yet to come across a full swap…… The harness is always gone or cut beyond use. And someone has always picked over the car before me… Granted I do go on Saturdays since I got a regular 9-5 gig during the week. So I started buying the pieces I could get my hands on. I’m now considering holding out for a complete swap and selling the parts I don’t need, or continue on my piece by piece NA to turbo swap…. It might be too late… Here’s a list with what I paid for the part or what I’ve seen the part sell on here or eBay for: Highlighted parts are those I have yet to buy. I’m currently running a very good carb’d flat-top F54/P90 engine combo. Pick-n-pull even has their inventory online now, but doesnt designate turbo etc.. Just thought I'd share in case anyone else is planning this swap, my car is not even running (turbo) yet, if you have a chance to buy a whole swap setup DO IT !

Nice job !, I like that blue a lot. What wheels and tires are you going with ?

Its under the dash, at the top of the clutch pedal where it pivots and pushes on the clutch master cylinder. Its the pin that attaches the master cylinder clevis to the pedal. Here's a pic, its not my car, but you get the idea