Delasangre4231

(1983 280zx NA 5 speed) I recently replaced my entire dash cluster because I bought the car without a working speedo or fuel gauge. So I now believe the speedo is off. I went into town one day with my parents following, I was doing (according to the speedo) about 80-90 the whole way, my parents pulled in behind me about 30 seconds later and said they did about 60. So my question for those of you with GPS units with speed readouts is what RPM are you at in what gear doing 45-50, and then just for fun what speed are you getting at about 4k RPM in 5th gear?

Ok so I went to work today, no problem, then I go home in the dark all the lights work fine until I park and try to turn them off. I click from headlights to running lights to off and everything goes off but the left headlight. I mess around with the controls for a few minutes and nothing happens. Then I decide to start pulling fuses. I keep pulling fuses one at a time until everything goes dark. Then I go try to click the lights on and none of the running lights work but in headlight mode just the headlights come on and they go between normal and brights just fine. So because I know nothing about car electrical systems I am posting this, what do I do/look for? Anyone had this problem before?

I am seeing a lot about exhaust being the best thing to give a turbo, also I see the stock outlet dia is 2 1/8 on the t3 (on my 300zx). That being said, would it be better to go with a 2 1/2 or 3 inch turbo-back system? Does the 3 still give enough power over the 2 1/2 to be worth it? Edit: Oh, and the only plans I have for performance upgrades are the MSA K&N intake setup and either a 2.5 or 3 inch mandrel bent turbo-back system, keeping the stock turbo.

Sounds good, stainless mandrel bent 3 inch turbo back with offroad pipe it is!

I'm not sure if they use salt or the chemical... By headroom you mean room to expand?

Ahh, I see. Ya I am currently debating between 2.5 inch turbo back or 3 inch, and stainless or aluminized. At the same time I will be adding MSA's K&N intake.

Ok, sorry, that was really confusing, what your saying is that I should just leave everything how it is to be safe? I don't think I will mess with this car, I will do it with my next one.

I am seeing a lot about exhaust being the best thing to give a turbo, also I see the stock outlet dia is 2 1/8 on the t3 (on my 300zx). That being said, would it be better to go with a 2 1/2 or 3 inch turbo-back system? Does the 3 still give enough power over the 2 1/2 to be worth it? Edit: Oh, and the only plans I have for performance upgrades are the MSA K&N intake setup and either a 2.5 or 3 inch mandrel bent turbo-back system, keeping the stock turbo.

Ahh, ok, so can I add a BOV? Would there be any point and what do they do? Do I have a stock wastegate and if so at what PSI will it open at? I'm sure there is a thread for this but whats the most PSI I can pull out of the stock t3?

I am new to turbo'ed cars but I finally bought an 84 turbo. I read a ton of awesome info on the sticky's but I still am curious about BOV's. What are the gains and losses of an upgraded one. Do I even have one on a bone stock vg30et? I also am curious about the wastegate idea. I get that it bypasses the turbine or what-not, but what does that do for the engine?

So its an 84 300zx, it has a bunch of extra wires and stuff for an amp that isnt installed and a heavy duty less schwab battery. Other than that its all normal. It wont start, giving typical dead battery symptoms, IE almost turned over at first and is now just clicking the starter back and forth. I had my truck hooked up to it with jumper cables and it didn't seem to do anything. So help?

Are you telling me to use poison gas in my car? HAHAHAHA good one.

What is this Zklyon B you speak of?

I have been letting my 300 sit for the winter and I checked on it and its filled with mold. How do I safely clean it out?

I have one too, 5-speed, na... I have over $2100 in new parts including NISMO racing seats. It has the ST racing springs under it too, runs and drives as a daily. $1500 and its yours! I am in Oregon, not sure if you want to go that far, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=157279

1984

I'm guessing stainless is better because of price difference?

Whats the CM you speak of? The air intake system from MSA, it replaced both of the air boxes up front with a custom tube and a K&N cone filter.

Is it any good? I was thinking that, a custom test pipe, with the Short ram intake...

I think I should also be doing the outer tie rod ends? Is that easy? The end result I'm looking for is a stock looking daily driver that is capable of very high performance at the same time. I think I have the perfect setup planned to give me a good balance!

I plan on lowering springs in the near future. The ones I am looking at only do 1" front and .5" rear so I think that I wont have to worry about it based on my research. I plan to use the Z3R Stage 1 springs from Z31parts.com and Tokico Illumina 5-way's with full poly bushings and spring seats...

Awesome, thanks. I am waiting for my actual permanent registration, as I just bought the car...

Would my 84 300zx have factory tinted hatch and triangle windows? Also where can I find a master key code for it? I only got one key with the car and its not a factory Nissan one so do I have to pull a lock cylinder?

Ok, so half inch in the rear before I have to adjust, how much can the front handle before adjustment is necessary?

That's actually the one I was talking about. I'll have to look again but I don't think they came on no matter what I did, I'll check for busted bulbs... Thanks!