Delasangre4231

Thats the exact stuff I got. What was the ratio you used?

I'm going to go for something that is good in dry and wet, I plan to move away from here before it snows again and if it does I just got my truck running...

Sold the car actually

So are the hoses that go from there just running into the block or around the engine? Does that device there plug right into the firewall or is another hose going from it the to nipple?

I don't care about wear, I want incredible dry grip and at least above average wet grip with somewhat good light snow traction. Yea I knew I would get all sorts of different tires, thats what I'm counting on. I want to see what people say about the brands and what you can expect from them.

Awesome, it just hit me to look at the Haynes manual so that also really helped, thanks for the pic!

I am looking for general ratings for tires, like what have you liked and what have you disliked about various brands and or tire models. I am looking at some Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105 in 17 inch for my z31 with a W speed rating. I like Hankook's as I have used them before. I am interested to hear how Riken's and Falken's do as well as Toyo and Federal. I have used Toyo but I thought they were very slippery, then again they were just Toyo Eclipse's. I then had a set of Federal's on my s130 and they were wonderful tires. So anyways, maybe provide a #/10 rating and your thoughts on what you've experienced. Thanks

Is it a standard pull the oil pan deal on the vg or is it something that just pops out?

I need someone to take a picture of the area where the heater hoses go into the firewall from the engine side. Take a few clear ones. Nothing exists on mine so I need to see how to rebuild and where the supposed vacuum deal goes.

Sorry, shoulda mentioned this is on my VG30ET. Assuming its close or the same, wouldn't oil pour out when you popped it out?

Can I/Should I infact replace the rear main seal while changing my clutch? If so how?

I would rebuild the engine you have and if its not turbo'ed yet then turbo it while your at it. Probably spend about the same money, learn something, and have a clean engine!

Being as the truck is 83 and engine is 76 i have been shopping for a 76 fuel pump. The reason I am leaning more toward the inline one is because even if I can find one thats right then it is still almost in the way of that crossmember.

I am trying to find a correct fuel pump for my chev. Its an 83 3/4 ton 4x4. Came with a 350, someone swapped in a 454 out of something 1976. The fuel pump just blew out and I now need a new one. I ordered one and it has the hose nipples on the wrong side and they interferes with the engine support. I have called numerous part stores and it seems a pump like the one that was in there don't exist. So my next option is a universal inline pump and a blockoff plate. First off do I remove the fuel pump pushrod and then put in the block off plate? Second is where can I get an inline pump that has an inlet and a return on one side and the feed line to the filter then carb on the other?

Which should I use for my replacement tranny for my 1984 300zx turbo?

Well, the car just sold so I will let them worry about it.

That helps a ton, so if my 300zx has the 12mmx1.25 and the jeep has 1/2"-20 then whats that equal, .5" dia stud?

Please. I've been Googling up the wazoo and I can't come up with anything. If I have a wheel designed for a bigger lug stud than the 300zx z31 studs (like for a Jeep) do I just drop it over the studs and tighten down the lugs, do the conical seat lugs seat a wheel enough to be safe or do I somehow have to get exactly the same hole size as stud size? What does 1/2 RH and 12mmx1.25 mean exactly?

When it comes to the dimension given for studs, IE 12mm or 7/16, is that thread or the stud size? Are all studs the same with different threads?

Original thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=158402 So I went in and put new electrical tape around all the connectors for the headlight control lever. Now as it solved the "headlights stay on" problem, the headlight that was stuck on high is now way dimmer than the other and my high selector light on the dash doesn't work...

Alright, I will try that, assuming I get the wheels...

No, the centers are stock. Its the chrome lip they painted.

Wow, it has been a while for this thread. I am now selling this car. I am putting a CM 3" mandrel bent stainless turbo back system with test pipe on my turbo 300zx.

I would like to take it, just give me a bit. I may be able to sell my other car, somebody just emailed me about it. I have to sell it before work begins on the 300zx...

I swear someone told me there was something else under dash that usually leaks that should be replaced. While your in there, could you take a picture of where the hoses from the engine comartment go into the firewall. Mine are gone and I'm not sure if there is anything else right there.