RebekahsZ

Thank you. What is current thought on flex sections? I want to be able to service the system plus I I A imagine I will have to pull motor in future for clutch swaps, diff swaps, sway bar swaps, etc. I also want to mount system in fairly rigid manners using high temp silicone grommets. I was planning on a flex section off of both headers before the y-pipe. Any advice?

I'm in the middle of nowhere. Gonna have to order everything if I want quality parts. Can I get the number of your shop so I can call for a collector supplier? I never realized that the flex section was to keep parts from loosening...good to know.

Near every broken axle I've seen lately has been associated with a welded diff. I bet you'll be fine for a good while so long as you diff isn't welded.

Don't rush yourself on your wiring. It took me MUCH longer than I thought it would, but I'm pleased with the results. Try to plan it so that it is easy to pull the engine (just my thoughts). I see people trying so hard to conceil the wiring that I expect it will make it more difficult to pull the engine for service work. Weather pack connectors rock.

I used my bench grinder to sculpt a recess in the bottom of the rubber insulator so that it conformed to the nose of the differential.

I concur with JMortensen above. My car now makes two beautiful burn-out marks exactly the same length whether I am going straight or in a circle.

It is time to order my mandrel bends, flex section(s) and v-band assemblies for my LS + 240z exhaust system. I've seen several pics over the past year of good systems, but I've been searching for 2 nights and I can't re-find them on the forum. I've searched the V8 forums, the exhaust forum, the gallery and the projects forums. Anybody who is proud (or just willing to post their pictures) of their 2 into 1 exhaust system, please post your best pictures here. Please list your mandrel bend and other parts supplier, too. I'm planning for 2.5" from the collectors to the Y-pipe; I have a Burns Y-pipe; then to a 3" single pipe to a muffler in the stock location. I'm hoping this won't become a thread for debate or criticism, but rather a simple show-and-tell of what other guys have done before. I'd rather provide my fabricator with a few too many bends rather than running short, but I'd like to limit thoughtless waste. I'm using JTR shorty coated headers. I used up the JTR-provided collector flange to make my temporary pipes - should I order more from JTR, or is there somewhere else that I should get them that will be at the proper angle?

Be the first to do dump tubes thru the inner fender! Yeah, there just isn't much room for long tubes. I just increased my hp from 150 to 400 - why should I care about another 7 or 14 (or whatever) horsepower?

Yep. I just got a laser 4 wheel alignment for $59.

R200.

Fantastic! Way to go! That looks terrific.

Try calling the guys at JCI and tell them about your concerns. They are really nice and helpful. You can also PM Phantom (or is it PhantomZ?) and ask him. His car was the prototype for JCI's kit. I'm not sure anybody will really be able to answer your question with absolute certainty. I think there are some guidelines about how much flow and pressure you need, but the pressure regulator can control (reduce) your pressure and much of your unused excess flow will go back to the fuel tank via a return line from either the pressure regulator or the fuel rail. Fuel flow needs are constantly changing, so again, I don't think anyone will be able to perfectly answer your question about flow requirements. My experiences: I installed an external Walbro and noise is not a problem at all (yes, I can hear it, but it is no louder than my production in-tank fuel pump on my S10). I used a Corvette FPR from Speedwaymotors.com and I installed a cheap fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. My fuel pressure is 50 psi at the rail at idle. I clogged a fuel filter right after my build and the fuel pressure gauge helped me immediately isolate the problem when my car stopped running, so I spent an hour cleaning the filter instead of a night of trouble shooting. One shortcoming of the pump you have is that it uses barbed fuel line fittings that screw onto plastic (many guys have done fine with barbed fittings with high pressure clamps). You will have to figure out some sort of adapter if you later decide to change to AN fittings on your lines. The Walbro is all-metal and it was pretty easy to use adapters to make it AN compatible. The mounting clamps for your fuel pump are nicer than the ones that come in the Walbro mounting kit (sold separately). If you have a 280z, you can probably use the stock hard lines to plumb your system, but if you have a 240z, you probably need to go to larger metal lines or just use 3/8 flex lines with AN6 fittings. Hope that helps at least a little.

I'd get the alignment checked. If the alignment is correct don't sweat it. Who looks at both sides of your car at the same time anyway? Really, would you want to break paint on that beautiful paint job to correct it? Nice car; I just think your flares are not installed evenly. If I let every paint chip bother me on my car, I'd go crazy. Drive the crap out of that thing and go win some car shows. Your car is sweet!

Good old domino effect. Can you move it down a little with a spacer and longer bolts? Had to do that with my front sway bar after I lowered the car.

duragg-thanks for all your advice when I was putting that diff together. It is sweet now. When it was locking - it was like all hell was breaking loose. You'd have not only heard it but also felt it if you had "chatter." It had the feeling of a loose wheel or a flat tire. All good now, but diff is leaking fluid either from a fill plug, the vent, or the cover gasket (new and carefully installed). I was careful not to overfill. Just enough leak to slime the bottom of the diff cover, but not enough to drip, yet. Gonna clean it up real good and shake baby powder all over it to try to find location of leak. I don't want to oil the track and be the cause of a guardrail close encounter.

Go for it. Too much work for me to take on, but I'm glad you are game for it. If the project gets out of hand, you can always just put a straight axle in it. Are you planning on narrowing the rearend or just letting the tires hang out? If my R200s fail to hold up, after using up my spare parts, I'll be going to a narrowed straight axle like a 9-inch or 8.8. Less moving (articulating) parts equals greater durability.

I've done the shim upgrade to a Z31 CLSD. I would probably just install it and not do the shimming if I had it to do over again. I had lots of chatter trouble until I added a total of 3 tubes of friction modifier. It is great now. No ill behavior.

After 2 more weeks of being patient and sending a few more emails, Ross at Modern Motorsport quoted me a price of $180 to replace my 4 rear LCA end links. I looked at some other websites for similar links and they were at least $50 each, so his price is competitive (all my screw ups are expensive). I sent him a paypal payment, we'll see how long it takes to get a package on my porch. The street rod fabricator I use for help with welding and fabrication is helping me with my side exhaust cut-out placement. He's c-notched my front "frame rails" and made an oval hole in my lower front fenders for a "baloney cut" exhaust outlet. He also put reinforcement plates on my seat belt recesses to use as a jacking point. Sway bar replacement and exhaust is next.

I vote for excessive toe. Did you adjust toe after altering your camber?

Does that mean to read them forward and backward?

Try removing them both, but save the parts so you can put them back.

What is the system painted with?

There is an R200 VLSD on ebay with greased bearings visible on the photo. With a pumpkin full of oil, should I be greasing these bearings when I rebuild my diffs? If so, what grease? If not, should the new owner clean that grease off before filling it with oil?

I trimmed my caliper brackets so that they could be installed without pulling the axle stubs.

When you visit an art gallery called "Zgallerie" and you can't understand why there aren't any pictures of sweet cars.