RebekahsZ

One of the best things I bought for my conversion was a factory service manual so that I could use the right terms for all the parts. If you don't have one get one. These motors use really low torque wrench settings due to the aluminum. I had no EFI experience and was totally clueless. Remove the EVAP system (tubing and solenoid), power steering, air conditioning. The EVAP system is just a fumes recovery system from the fuel tank kind of similar to the z-cars charcoal canister. Put a rubber vacuum cap from the HELP section of your corner parts store on the throttle body where you removed the EVAP tubing. Keep the crank case venting from the valve cover and figure out how to route it back into the cold air tubing. I don't know if it matters whether it HAS to go before the throttle body or if you can attach it to the old EVAP port directly on the throttle body. Maybe somebody else can talk to that issue? Remove factory exhaust manifolds and rear O2 sensors, but dont chuck them because the rears have longer wires and you may need them later depending on how your exhaust is done. As I recall, that is all I took off the pollution system.

Trip to alignment shop was fun but as usual I can't do anything on the first try. The technician used a 4 wheel laser system - it was cool. But my goof up on my rear LCAs limited me to .75 neg camber. The passenger side LCAS had to be shortened and the driver side lengthened - seems my car is pretty warped! Will be going back next week-I went thu the machines report and found that the mechanic read the machine wrong and really over did it when he figured caster for the crown of the road- he adjusted one side to 4 and the other to 5.5 instead of 4.5. Car drives straight with the steering wheel cocked just a bit to the right. Toe in is 1/8 front and back. Time to do chassis mods for exhaust clearance.

While cutting off bosses - don't forget there is one on the driver side head that will conflict with the JTR headers (if you use them or might ever use them). Might as well cut that one off too and cut any junk off the passenger side of the transmission that is unneccesary. That side gets pretty crowded in the tunnel. The driver side of the tranny has lots of room and you may not even need to hammer a clearance bubble for the shifter solenoid.

Thank you. I'll check it out.

Call MSD technical support and see what they can do for you.

I posted a similar notice on drivetrain by mistake - oops. I goofed and cut the end links for the Modern Motorsport adjustable rear LCAs too darn much and now need a source for replacement end links (the front two links have limited clearance that limits adjustability, while the rear two links can be as long as needed). I am not deadlined - I can still adjust from zero to 1.5 negative camber but I want to be able to adjust from 1.5 to 3 degrees. I emailed and PM'd Modern Motorsports 2 days ago and it may be premature (lets don't make this a MM bashing thread), but can anybody give me a source of supply for those end-links?

I goofed and cut the end links for the Modern Motorsport adjustable rear LCAs too darn much and now need a source for replacement end links (the front links have limited clearance that limits adjustability). I am not deadlined - I can adjust from zero to 1.5 negative camber and I want to be able to adjust from 1.5 to 3 degrees. I emailed and PM'd Modern Motorsports 2 days ago and it may be premature (lets don't make this a MM bashing thread), but can anybody give me a source of supply for those end-links? Mods-if this is more appropriately placed in the parts wanted forum, I understand if you relocate it. But, I felt that this is actually kind of a technical question.

Spent 20 minutes driving in tight circles; 10 min to left, 10 min to right. I've only heard it BANG once all day. Gonna leave it and go get an alignment. Thanks, everybody! Keith

Also order a part number 355-9-9102G from jegs.com.

Look for my 27 may 2011 post in my thread called ls2 project mentor wanted in the gen3 v8 forum for pics of my cross member reliefs.

Yes. Call or pm me when the mount arrives and you have it painted. You will need to cut a couple of clearance "reliefs" in your front cross member too so give me a holler when you have the front cross member off and a dremmel tool with a fiberglass cut off wheel. I am available most evenings but work days.

I think my 2-step will spit flames when installed. A month or two away from that.

Drove it to work with a big grin on my face.

You know, when you are jamming thru a sweeper at the limit of adhesion, you occasionally encounter a bump, or a rock, or a gum wrapper. I think the reason we rag on it (totally slammed cars) is because most of us have tried it. Every time I try to lower my car an inch, I come back to the shop and raise it two inches! Played with ride height this weekend a bunch with trials over road seams, high speed corners and straight aways at speeds overs 100 mph. Frame rails are at 5 inches and it is still too darn low to drive on remote, deserted roads with confident abandon which I why I built this car. Now that ratsun exists I hope most of these customizers will gravitate that direction and keep this a high perf site.

You can definitely leave the spindle pins in. If you ever need to pull the spindle pins, the puller that is available thru the forum is the BOMB! I used it last weekend and it rocks.

I've shared all I know from having done this swap last weekend. You can call me if you need anything more. 256-366-3685. Keith.

Can you pm me some pics of your exhaust and the location and brand of your cutouts? Looks great.

You don't have to do any monkey business with the mustache bar with the RT mount - you just take off the stock front insulator and sell it on ebay! With the RT mount, you need to get the part number for the urethane bushing that bolts to it - it is not included in the RT mount. Then you just paint it and install it. I can walk you thru it if you have trouble. In the meantime, you'll be ok without the strap. If your bushing is new, you'd be ok for years unless you have a high torque engine.

Others may have a different opinion, but I say ditch the strap and just work with the rubber insulator. The strap is just such a pain and I think it is only necessary if your rubber mount breaks. That will let you turn it (the insulator) around and get your diff installed. Then, save up for an RT (Ron Tyler) mount - it sort of solves all these diff mounting problems.

New stub axle nut on and torqued. CV axles in and torqued. Adjustable rear LCAs in. Bought a LongAcre camber gauge. Can adjust from zero to -1.5 camber. Will have to try to get new end-links so that I can set at -1.5 for street and up to -3.0 for race (I cut 'em too darn short-aaargh!). Diff still BANGING after oil change with additional Trans-X, will try to patiently do lots of turning before I give up and pull it back out to de-shim it (big job). The hydraulic handbrake set up that I put in is giving me trouble - the upper caliper is hitting on the sheet metal just next to the strut tower now that I've pulled the wheels in some more. Gonna raise ride height another half inch and trim a little sheet metal. Lots of hours on the car, but not a very glamorous post to show for it.

Changed diff oil to 3 tubes of Trans-X, leaving less than a quart of capacity for 75W140 oil. It IS better, but still banging too much for as much as I street drive this car. Plan is to check the wet break away torque of my old Subi R180 and try to de-shim to that spec. The Subi diff had a little chatter that felt like a tire rubbing a little, nothing like I'm dealing with now. I'm just afraid all this BANGing is going to tear something up.

Remember when Nissan tried to restore a bunch of z-cars and found the program unsustainable? Yours is a labor of love.

Just installed JMortensen's kit last weekend, and I am very happy with how the assembly went together. Learned a lot in the process and JM was very helpful thru the conversion. I had no CV experience before doing this conversion (there are some tricks to it). Awaiting alignment (next week) before getting slicks on and back to the track, then for a full product review!

You are correct. Keep the cones - that is what makes the seal to your flared brake lines. The black things are check valves. Remove them for disc brakes,keep them for drums. So if you have disc in front, remove that check valve. If you have drums in back, keep that one. If you have disc in front and back, remove them both. Tell us all how it works.

I just did the 6-clutch LSD upgrade. I'm banging just like you. Do you know if your LSD is stock? At the advice of the forum, I'm changing my gear oil to 80W140 and adding 2 tubes of LSD additive. First try, I'm gonna leave a little room in diff, so that if it still bangs I can add a third tube of additive before topping it off with ger lube. It feels like I have a flat tire, or loose lug nuts only when I do slow, tight turns, but I don't have any loose parts. It sounds like it is from the passenger side tire most of the time. From what guys are telling me, we must have LSDs that are too tight. I'm either lubing it up or pulling it back out to remove shims.