RebekahsZ

It looks like the five of us: fritz, sunny, alainburon,fuzzy dice and I are all stalled for either parts or time. My father in law lives with us now on hospice for heart and kidney failure. I have weekend duty with him and my wife takes the weekdays so I can keep my practice afloat. Rebekah just graduated from high school and just returned from her senior trip. This is a good day for her to help me take car to local street rod builder to leave car to get frame/chassis notched for exhaust clearance. Still waiting on new LCAs end links from Ross. He replied to an email then went black ops again without any action. I took a smooth turn at probably fifty-ish yesterday and I could feel rear tire roll. Got home and looked at tire and sure enough I'm gonna need more camber even for the street. Gonna bring front end up another inch too-got hung on some train tracks yesterday. Low has its drawbacks but coilovers rock! While car is away I'm planning to make a little switch panel for the console.

I've been wondering if shaving does any better than just smoking the tires a couple of times then rotating fronts to backs ? Haha.

The bushings on the ends limit travel up and down. I've never so far found that to be a source of wheel shake. Push up and down on your tie rods and see if they move-if they move up and down it is either in the inner tie rod bearing or in that bushing you are referring to. Most often culprit is inner tie rods. Sometimes outer tie rods. Check for play in steering shaft - that is where I still have play, but that shaft and its little u-joints are not available. Major fabrication job to fix that. Even with a little play, my steering has no slop when driving, but I do have a little tiny shake. I just had it aligned and that helped some. I'm thinking of having my tires "trued" on a machine that actually shaves them into round. I did that on my daughter's jeep and it made a WORLD of difference.

I have 2 impact wrenches. The larger is a 450# Ingersol Rand. Neither impact wrench works worth a crap. Neither does my cut-off wheel. I assume I am limited by my aircompressor. Turning up pressure hasn't helped. This winter: gas-MIG welder; next year: BIG ASS aircompressor.

If it comes to it, I think you'd be ok to go without it. It is really just a storage plug. Once the axle is bolted to the companion flange it is effectively capped.

I love HybridZ! Group hug....

Great question. I always hope for answers from people with knowledge. I recognize, however, that I often ask stupid questions. So, mechanically, application of power against the resistance of the brakes forces the LSD up the internal ramps and gives the driver more locking than merely breakaway torque?

Don't get hung up on the switch valve. Either use it or chuck it. If it has been disconnected then you dont have to use it. You are thinking too hard. Study those pictures I talked to you about in my thread on this subject. If you want to do the minimum amount of tubing work, keep the switch valve just copy my set up. If you want to eliminate you switch valvethen run the line lock solenoid from the front brakes port on the MC then come off that outlet with a T fitting and run one line to each front brake line. Splice in with little coupling from you parts store.

I am in the market for a camera for: 1) mounting on roll bar and video-ing the driving experience from the cockpit 2) just as you have, I'd like to do some surveillance under the car, in the wheelwells and under the hood. I have ordered a roll bar mount for a GoPro, but haven't bought the camera yet. What is the best camera for doing these videoing duties? Clarkspeed, how have you been attaching your camera to the chassis for the videos you posted?

I am on my second time plumbing of my line lock. On my second time, I eliminated the warning light manifold completely.

If the tire had not gotten locked in the fender, would the car have climbed the driveway in spite of having one tire in the air?

I will be listing my 2006 Subi R180 3.90 CLSD, which includes BetaMotorsports output flanges, and Wolf Creek CV axles as soon as I can find the energy to post the pictures in the For Sale forum. Been looking after a sick relative in the hospital for 3 days and nights - gotta get some sleep....

Now to get a high-frequency vibration out of my emergency brake....

Ross just replied to my email thru his website. He's gonna send me some new links. Yippee! I love getting beyond my screw-ups.

Idk what the top one is but the bottom is the EVAP solenoid. You can chuck that whole system and put a vacuum cap on the port on the throttle body.

The solution was incredibly simple. I had envisioned taking the lower half of the assembly apart to make a plastic roller, etc, etc. Wanna know what silenced 20 years of squeaking? A dab of grease. Sweet silence.

I've got a carbon hood with cowl induction that is absolutely beautiful. That is, up to about 80mph - then the thing starts shaking relative to the rest of the car. There is a little play in the hinges if I pull up and down on the front of the hood, but not a lot. The rivets that hold the attachment brackets on are not loose. I removed the torsion bar-type spring from the front of the hood and am using the stock cable operated hood latch. I plan to get the car above 100mph at the track, and the hood worries me. Is this normal/acceptable for composite parts? What should I do about it, if anything? If I need to go the hood pin route, I assume I'll need to pin it front and back?? Pictures for solutions requested. Sounds like a PITA and I'd really rather work on mechanicals - I'm hoping somebody will say:"my hood shakes like crap, and has for years, but I regularly hit 150 at the track and it has never been a problem." Wishfull thinking? I look forward to your experiences and recommendations.

I'm sorry, but that is the most beautiful combination of paint color, wheel size and design, and ride height. I love the white lettering on the tires. Way to go. State of the art! Well done.

Just got a reply to my email to Ross at sales@modernmotorsports.com. He says all his links are boxed in with the kits and that he doesn't have any extras, but he is going to open up a kit and sell me just the links! He is to work on it after the weekend! Yeah!!!

Don't know about flipping the mustache bar, but I don't think so.... I just bought an R200 280z mustache bar from a forum member. There was one on ebay last week - may still be there. The mounting bolts on a R180 are 12mm, on an R200 they are 14mm. That steel is really hard unless you have a drill press...don't' try to drill the new holes lying on your back. I assume the holes are centered on the bar, but I don't know if that is true. Only 4 bolts to get one off of a salvage yard Z-car; pretty easy if you are going to start spending money on an R200 swap, I'd just buy a mustache bar and avoid possible headaches. I know that there is some debate about the need for shortened CVs-plenty of guys did the swap over the years and I don't see lots of complaints on this forum. I played it safe and bought JMortensen's CV axle shafts and did the full conversion. I guess lots of guys are running the stock length CV axles, but I don't know how common it is to have breakages due to them being too long. It is common enough for JMortensen to go to the trouble of tooling up. From my limited experience, flipping the outer CV cages gets your axles only 1/8" shorter. Even after going to shortened shafts, it was still very tight clearances for me. If you go to CV axles and keep the stock length, you will still have to buy companion flanges which are $395 a pair. JMortensen's kit for these is beautiful and he supplies all the hardware in his kit too. You are starting to get into some money now. And for what? Unless you have a line on a LSD, your car won't PERFORM any better than it did before. I've seen 6 second cars run all season on stock, ancient u-joint axles and I know guys with slower cars who have broken every brand and style of axle available. There is a Q45 diff setup complete hub to hub on ebay right now too for $500 if you want to go that way. I just got an email from Modern Motorsports, so they are still open for business for their stuff. Lots of different ways to skin a cat.

Sure, i agree. He just stated that he was tired and short on cash so I was just being supportive of his plan as the most simple, quick and least expensive.

Sounds like the easiest way to get back on the road to me. The pickup front diff will work. I ran one for years. It may be a low ratio. Mine was either 4:10 or 4:11. If I recall the only thing you may need to change is your input flange. You will need an impact wrench and a 27m socket to change it. The last 3 drivetrain failures I've seen posted were due to welded diffs.

So sorry, dude. Thanks for posting the pictures. You can't get stronger without spending money, time or both. . You may have just had a bad axle. If you are short on bucks, get you another stock setup and run it till it breaks again. What chassis is your car? 240z, 280z, zx? It will make a difference in your options

One week of daily driving, has only given me an occasional bump and no more BANG. I am happy. I will reduce break away torque to about 40 on the next diff I build up since I am principally a street driver.

I am about one year ahead of you with my car. Pm me any time for help. I am very happy with my stock motor. It is more power than I can safely employ. Scary fast. I have to be really careful-after a year of work I don't want to crash it. Dont get me wrong, i am about to order new rear tires already. I also used the same disc conversion and JMortensens axle kit. I used RT diff mount and just finished LSD clutch changes too so our cars will basically be twins.