RebekahsZ

That sucks. As we saw with the shortened axle shafts from M2 differentials, not all heat treating is the same (?). That is a clean break, while my inner CV shaft broke following the course of a spiral crack. I sure hope you just got an axle stub that was improperly heat treated... I am willing to replace a pile of Z31T CV axles, but on the day after I snap my Chequered Flag 39-spline stubs, I will be looking for a 9-inch solid axle. I draw the line there-I've spent and re-spent on stub axles 3 times. Thats my limit. How many splines were your stubs?

Went to storage and got my 15X7 Rota RBs. Turns out that they clear the AZC calipers. The front clears by about 1/8" everywhere with no spacer. The rear needs a 1/2" spacer and clears by about the same amount-not very much. I'm going to the speed shop to get a set of Weld Rodlite wheels which have crazy slotted bolt holes which look like they take an insert to change them from 4X4.25 to 4X4.5. But the Rodlite is a cast wheel, so I'm hoping that they gobble up less wheel stud length. I will also get a pair of 4X4.25 Bogart front wheels to see if they can be run with my 4X4.25 to 4X4.5 spacer adapters-fortunately, with only 3.5" wide front wheels, there is more room for playing with backspacing. Will report back. If the other wheels do not fit, then my plan is to order some 15X8 RBRs for the rear and to try to have my 15X7s narrowed for the front. I have about 2 weeks to decide whether I am buying 15" or 16" drag radials. I hope to run 275/60/15 Drag Radial Pros, back up plan is to run 295/50/16s.

My sender is leaking at the crimp between the outer sheet metal housing and the inner sheet metal housing. My question is this: should I try to clean it and apply epoxy to it, or try to get a radiator shop to fill the gap between the two pieces of sheetmetal with solder? My original sender leaked at the same place, and so I bought a new sender-and it leaks too! Its not a big leak, but its the only leak I have, so I want it gone. I'd love to get your suggestions.

This is a question: other than tire wear, does running 3-ish degrees of negative camber via camber plates put a lot of additional wear on suspension components? I'm thinking mostly about steering rack and tie rods.

So, I trial fit both the stock, steel 14" 240z wheels and a set of 1993 steel 240sx wheels hoping to be able to send the centers to a custom wheel shop. Thats gonna be a big no-go, the centers are way too small for the same reason that the MRWs wont fit-its the valley in the barrels that is the problem.

Wanna post us a cell phone pic,(?) I'm not even sure we are talking about the same bushings...maybe we can save you some work, and money and time. If you see lotsa slop in a fastener, it's probably the problem-we may just be getting out terminology mixed up.

Weekly update on my truck. They assembled the LSD and new gear set. Driveshaft and new crossmember (that doesn't sag down like my big gut) installed. Some wiring done. Waiting on headers to arrive. This is gonna be expensive.

Anxious to see how this goes, those bushings are high, away from the weather. Never seen any that weren't perfect once the mustache bar was down. I've burned several sets out for poly, and thought "wow, I just destroyed a perfect bushing." I'm still betting on a u-joint, or tire out of round or out of balance, or worst case: rear hub bearing. Be sure to check all your lug nuts for torque.

For sale ads can be so funny! Mine will read something like this: "I'm tired of this bitch, first guy who shows up with a trailer gets it!" Then I will get a few night's sleep and come to my senses.

Don't hate your Z. I tried for 5 years to do the triple carb thing against all my friends advice against them-but they look so cool! I could never get all my carbs to run well, and I could never get both throats on each carb to flow exactly the same (I tried EVERYTHING). It took a super cold winter to make me throw in the towel. Don't hate the whole car, but think about joining the LS club. We wil welcome you with open arms.

I hope you are better at drilling spot welds than I am. I'm surprised more of the chassis stiffening gurus haven't jumped on this. Please update the thread as you go, if I ever back half my car, the boxes wi be coming out.

Nobody on this site has completed one (that I'm aware of). A lotta swaps get started, few get finished. The trans mount looks good in concept, but I worry about exhaust clearance around it.

SunnyZ is a GenIII LSx V8 superstar. I think he had to have the TTT rear setup modified at TTT to his specs before having it sent to him. Send him a PM asking for info. He is all over the Gen III V8 forum. He just did a turbo 5.3 setup after going mid-9s in the 1/4 with his 5.7NOS setup. He got tired of buying nitrous. He won't be posting any timeslips till he cages his car.

I have heard someone (johnc?) refer to the tool box are and the front cowl as somethingorother: "torque boxes?" So I think that from a structural point that they are supposed to stiffen the chassis. That being said, there is an XP 280z in Memphis, TN, with a 350z or 370z drivetrain that has removed them (and damn near anything without a direct mechanical function) to achieve a curb weight of 1989#-yes, a 280z! I think I remember the owner saying that removal of that section saved him 12#, but that's just two guys talkin'.

Pull up your britches, 50-cent!

You may have some hot feet, but no one will hear you screaming over those pipes! It's gonna sound great. In the event that the car isn't ready for Z Nats, any chance of a road trip to the shop on Saturday to see the beast in the flesh? I just got a second stock mirror that I hope to bond a concave mirror to-hoping to have as many deficiencies noted at last track day corrected. Visibility was your biggest criticism of my car that I heard from you...and the brakes.

Move to Alabama: anything 1974 or older gets no title-just a bill of sale. No safety inspection, no smog inspection. Gun rack mandatory.

Just did a brake job on Rebekahs jeep to get her ready for another year at Auburn. Since swapping the Z to discs, I had lost touch with what a pita drum brakes are. It was like riding a bike, even the cussing and grumbling seemed remotely familiar. Whoever designed those stupid 1/2-turn spring retainers that hold the shoes to the backing plate is a son of Satan. Worked the manual adjusters and went for a test drive/brake bedding session and all is right with the world. Fantasizing about the day I swap from street pads to race pads with the removal of a single cotter pin on my AZC Wilwoods when I prep for Z Nationals track day in October!

If you ever get a setup from TTT, try to get specs from SunnyZ that also let him move the tire back an inch. The rubbing I have is near the door. Coming back an inch would really help. I cut the outer fender not only up but forward too, but nothing i could do with the inner fender, so thats where it rubbed. I think a 1/2" spacer would cure it. If you flare, I don't think you need to come in too. I think flares would do enough.

I don't know who is carrying the really wide ones that i have. I got mine from ZForceProductions, but I heard that he had gone under (can't confirm), but he was kind of a hit-or-miss kind of vendor, sometimes delivering quickly and other times losing orders or some such nonsense. The best fitting flares definitely come from Japan from a guy called Marugen Shakoi, or something like that. I've seen thes and his flares are the only ones that are contoured to fit the Z car specifically, while all the others are "universal" which means that they don't fit very well. There is a new vendor on the forum called JPN Garage. he sent me some flares that were pretty poor quality, but I think he is doing some carbon flares now that looked good in photos. Then there is Motorsport Auto (there sales guy told me not to buy from them when I called-he said their flares were poor quality. Then there is ebay. All of the flares are super thin and fragile. I'm really careful not to lean against them-they would crack for sure. You might put a wanted add in the classifieds of hybridz. I've been working on some custom steel wheels and I just noticed that my 28X10.5 slicks had rubbed the inner fender some. Hopefully I will be fine with the 28X9s. I may have to come down to 27" slicks....

Photos added to second posting. Especially after I went to the junk yard and looked at the quality of an OEM 240z 14" steel wheel and an OEM 240sx 15" steel wheel, I wasn't satisfied with the quality (maybe just my perception of the quality) of the center of the aftermarket wheel. What I saw in the OEM wheels had cleaner mounting bolt holes, a flatter mounting surface, and more complicated stamping patterns that I think create a stronger, more rigid wheel. I had a good conversation with Rick at Stockton Wheels, and he indicated that they can often put a 15" barrel on a stock 14" center, and that making custom steel wheels specifically to clear hot rod disc brake set ups is something that they do with regularity. I am to send him some photos of the OEM wheels and my AZC disc brakes set up via email to get things started. I discussed this with Burton Brown and he said that he will be at Bonneville (when I am also there) running his streamliner. He says that his streamliner wheels were custom made by Diamond Racing and that they have a booth at Bonneville. That's in 2 weeks, so I hope to lay some eyes on the Diamonds to see if that is an option. Will post the photos that I take in the next few days to send to Stockton.

A forum member recently bought a 4.60 R200 CLSD from White-something-or-other in Canada.

We drink.

I put a little dab of wax (called torque seal) on the head of my troublesome bolts in order to see if they have loosened. I had a gland but that was bad to loosen, and I could visually inspect the wax mark, and if the wax line from the bolt head to the component was broken, I knew torque had been lost. It was good peace of mind. Tighten it up and mark it, maybe? If it is something that needs tightening once a month, I'd take that approach. I tried drilling a grade 8 bolt for a safety wire. Went through a box of bits, even using a drilling fixture. Never got the hole all the way thru and gave up. It's hard to drill those tiny holes on good hardware.

It slows down the closer you get. The devil is in the details. Even after being as perfect as I could on the wiring, a year later I'm now having trouble keeping my battery charged. The gremlins are a bugger! Disconnecting battery when I park it for now. Take your time and you will thank yourself later.