RebekahsZ

You need to be specific to whoever builds it. If R200 diff, rear u-joint is limited to 1310 joint due to available flanges, although you can go to 1350 at tranny end. The basic slip yoke that JCI uses in the base model is cast and is pretty weak. John farms the driveshaft out to his local driveshaft shop. I would get at least a forged slip yoke if not a billet one. If you have a 240z, get a 3" tube. If 280z get a 3.5" tube (smaller tunnel in 240z). Aluminum is sexier but supposedly less strong inch to inch. And go ahead and make a safety loop. That's all I have learned (mostly the hard way). No matter who makes it talk to him first.

You are a miserable worm. You must die for asking a question without first knowing the answer! Hang thy head and be forever shunned. No matter what you buy, you will regret your first tire purchase.

Thank you. Keep the suggestions coming.

Adam just rebuilt his. I'd send him a PM, he can either walk you thru it or maybe do it for you?

So, sounds like you are suggesting that I re-sell it?

Dang! Ever seen the actual CV come apart?

I can vouch-it feels good. I still haven't gotten to drive it yet, hint-hint!?!

That's not bad-how much of that is dry-sump related?

There's no right or wrong, just high and low. Whatever works for your application.

ZFan1-Where did yours break? Both of SunnyZs broke same as mine: driver side on the stub between the splines and the inner CV. Mine were fine until I switched from 26" to 28" tires (unless the crack started earlier). What tire were you running and where did the failure (s) occur mechanically?

I'm old and still figuring Facebook out, but I just went thru whole YouTube channel. Wow! Beautiful car. In fact all your cars are awesome.

Back on the road. Drove car down to a swsp meet in town just to get the VHT and rocks off the tires. Believe it or not, the hardest part to source was the axle seal! Hoping to hit junkyard next Sat to build up a war chest if spare axles. And waiting for wfritts911 to finish his 8.8 conversion.

As a vote of confidence, I bought a new in the box, 8.8 31- spline Trac-lock at a swap meat today for $90. It seemed too cheap to walk away from. Looking forward to more info.

I just have misunderstood him about JCWhitney vs. Jegs. But, Smyra388Z's main hoop looked every bit as good as mine, and I paid over $1000 to have a custom 6-pt bar built.

Find a good rubber floor plug and drill a hole in tranny tunnel with a step drill bit. Go thru sheet metal with a 1/2" extension on an air impact wrench. Then you can fill tranny with gravity helping you instead of fighting you.

Thank you. I just screen shot that for future reference. The fitting that SunnyZ sent is a female-male adapter. I'm having trouble finding a female-female adapter which is what would be perfect. Once I get axle finished I will get on this and figure out which way to go. It is pretty tight down where this thing is located, crowded between the header and the motor mount. But I guess I'd rather have a leak down there than up high. Will post final solution. Thanks for more tips.

Perfectly what I needed to understand. Willl refer to this in future. Thank you.

Can you shorten the spacer?

Axle seals came in but the Advance Auto part number delivered 6 special order, pre-paid R180 seals (which are too small). AutoZone can't get them, Rock Auto's pictures looked like they might be the wrong part too. Finally ordered from Black Dragon and paid for 2-day shipping air. Stock up fellas, these things are getting as hard to find as 22 shells. I ordered 10.

Do you have a good reference for me to see to learn about fire extinguisher systems? On the list for this year.

Will, didn't you say that your kit uses 33-spline inner stub axles?

Pics. I had to put an ATV 3000# Harbor Freight winch in the floor of my shop to get the car up the steep driveway (not enough folks from Sunday School showed up for Sunday night coffee)! It worked like a charm. Also put my wife and my new Harbor Freight press to good use pressing the CV onto the axle shaft. This worked a lot better than the 2X4 and hammer method. The trick is guiding the c-clip into its groove as you are starting to press them together. Also, it helps to have flipped the outer cage so that the shaft is directly underneath the grease cap so that when pressing on the center of the grease cap I was actually pressing on the end of the shaft itself. If the cage isn't flipped, there is a risk of bending and ruining the grease cap and they aren't available anywhere that I know of. In the pics of the broken axle, the seal spring and the little chips were found on the ground at the track where the breakage happened. Using hose clamps for boot retention made reassembly really easy-fighting those fancy CV clamps that come with the boots is a pain.

Beautiful car ktm-Id rather seen 100 under car shots than a single shiny paint job. 1mm was too close for me to risk. I could get it to fit, but not within my comfort level. The Wolf Creek cvs are a little smaller than the Z31 CVs in the area where I was close.

How do you find all these solid cars??! They do get a little tinning at the factory don't they? I just know that every door ding I get turns instantly brown. I have this fantasy about original cars doing better. Any truth to my fantasy? I guess if the cars are treated really well it doesn't matter, but I hope to follow Burton Brown to the salt with my next car. You have stripped cars and I have only stripped mine with chemical stripper (and it had been roughly sanded to the steel once before)-any thoughts/advice?

My Z is my midlife crisis car! It used to be my young and rebellious car. Someday it will be my old-timey car.