Mike kZ

I think I liked it better the way it was before this blue background. "Feared" by other cars on the street!

The only way you can change your user name is for us to delete your account, and you will have to re-register.

I used some of that foam auto tape, about 3/8" thick, wraped it around the gauges and then pushed it into position. They are so snug that nothing else is needed to secure them.

I ordered some! Use the 877 number above and talk to Mike Heart, use Cool Code 7860001.

You could always buy a temp control for a radiator fan from Pep Boys. Make sure it is adjustable and install it in your radiator, but wire it to your fuel rail fan. When your radiator reaches say 160 or whatever you dial it for it will come on, set to turn off at 220 or so and it will turn off when your not there ( connect + to battery )

$136 for stainless steel!! That's dirt cheap, I wonder why?

They look nice! I would leave it as is, how much weight could you save cutting out a small portion, not much. They will be much stronger as is.

$15.20 off of $21.19, that's $5.99 ?! Or is that $21.19 and with the sale it's $15.20?

Like j240z said, the only way would be to lift the rear and dip the front. There is another way, you could bend and shape some thin sheet metel panels to fit over the wheel wells, then chrome plate them and screw of pop rivet them to your front wheel well area.

If the Dynamic, or Static balance was off, wouldn't it shake going straight too? It only happens in a turn. Would worn wheel bearings act this way? I don't have spacers.

For the heads, get the Vortec Head from GM Performance Parts 800-577-6888. These are the best cast heads out there for under $500. You'll need an intake made for Vortec heads, but they will cost the same as a regular intake.

Wheel bearings: I don't remember if I put news one in or not, I'll have to check my records on that. Wheel balancing: One is balance on both sides, because the problem started after I had a new valve put on that wheel, so I re-balanced it. The other wheel is balanced on the inside only, but I didn't have a problem until that valve. I don't think it is the problem, because I balanced it 3 times, and it doesn't shake going straight. Inner tie rods/tires: When i replaced the outer tie rods, cleaned, adjusted, and added new boots to the rack, the inner tie rods seemed to be solid. The tires are new.

In my Z on the highway doing around 75mph, when I'm in a long curve, the steering wheel has a strong shake in it, but when I'm in a straight line it's fine. Any ideas what is causing this? Front wheels have been balanced many time because of this, and the whole front end is rebuilt with poly bushings. The only thing not rebuilt were the inner rack ties. Help this is driving me nuts!

What about a 240SX with a 240Z front clip! You can make room for the GN! Very cool looking! Or just add AC, cruise, cushy seats, etc to your Z like mine!

John, you need to tone it down a bit! Maybe this engine is not what he's looking for. Sounds to me with what he wants, this engine would have to be totaly rebuilt. So why pay 1k just to rebuild it.

Just try to find one that has variable heat and wire feed settings ( turn knobs ), not push button settings, and has argon gas setup.

Check this post: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=31847

I knew it had to be due to that certain member They sound like a bunch of dumb asses!

I did this on mine, but I lowered my car. I don't think you need to do this if you're leaving it at stock height.

I thought of that when the first Honda Hybrid came out. But then I thought about it, and I bet people will come up to you and ask " Is that an electric/gas Hybrid car?"

I'm using Explorer and having problems keeping logged on too.

Would that be a Yeah!!, or Oh NO !!

Cars now: 1972 240Z V8 1962 Impala Convertible 409, 4 speed 1997 Dodge Avenger 1993 Toyota Privia Previous cars: 1972 Duster with first swap, 440 1955 Cadillac Hearse 1941 Chevy 2 dr sedan street rod 350, 4 speed 1972 Nova SS 1977 Toyota hatchback 1980 Chevy Monza 2+2 1985 Toyota van 1987 Chevy Berreta

Right, With a regular hydraulic, solid cam you HAVE to change the lifters when swapping cams. But with a roller cam you don't have to change the roller lifters as long as it's the same type of cam, solid or hydraulic

Why don't you hide it under the seat or something