blueovalz

From past experience, it will be hard to see but it will be stamped on the bearing carrier portion with perhaps a 3/8" letter. The strut will need to be real clean in order for you to see it.

I'm on the fence. SteelToad offered an very good suggestion though. this would visually tie the scoop to the window as a single unit

I was wondering the same thing. If the spacer is too short, your preload should come in too soon (before a safe amount of torque has been placed on the nut). If the spacer is too long, then the outer race has not been set against the shoulder (which causes the preload as the nut causes the inner race) to set preload against a fixed outer race, resulting in no significant preloading. Does this sound reasonable? With that said, if you could get a shim that would sit between the outer bearing race and the bearing shoulder (effectively spacing the bearing outward), this then provides the same effect as shortening the OEM bearing spacer if indeed it is too long. Did you verify the boss and the spacer have the same letter stamp?

I used (and this was on the latest rebuild) the Childs & Albert assembly lube. I was told it would assist in allowing moly rings seat more quickly, so I tried it and found the seating was almost immediate as compared to previous builds. I used it in the entire assembly and it worked very well.

How much clearance (or play do you have) between the normal (at rest) position of the SC, and the arm if you were to manually (by hand) push the arm rearward so that it pushes the throwout bearing into contact with the pressure plate? You should have very little play here (perhaps a 1/16" or so if everything is ready to operate properly). To add one more question; How much does the SC rod extend when you push on the clutch pedal. If the hydraulic assembly is correct, you should get some pretty good movement (which appears to be as you described), so this leads me to believe you've done this part right. I have heard of folks installing the clutch disc backwards, but you'd have to be pretty distracted during assembly to do this, and the result is just as you've described.

Those are awesome dimensions. This is the smartest option I've seen...elimination of the weak spot with maximum spline size. Have you looked at any of the 930/vw conversion flanges to see if that spline count and size could be cut into your new axles? I'm not very concerned about the thickness of the adapters. My goal is to reduce the mass of the assembly (by removal of the adapter and directly bolting the 930 joint onto the flange), and I feel that your part will do that. I assume that the axle will need to be lengthened as a result (about 3/4"), but that is not a problem either being I recently purchased a spare set that is waiting to be machined for a slightly longer groove position.

May I assume that these prototypes would also fit my application (should I wish a cloned set)?

I believe the same study also placed the NAPA (gold and black) filters as one of the upper quality filters. They run about $9 a piece though.

Because of the straight cage bar immediately behind the seat shoulder (restricting any further movement aft for the seat), I've got mine further forward than most, but the jack tube is just under my knees. Again, this tube could be moved anywhere, It just happened out this way and allowed the tube to go through the OEM holes in the side of the rocker panel interior stamping.

Just out of curiosity, did you have poly T/C bushings?

I welded a tube through the unibody at at the exact midpoint of the axle centerlines. The balance point has changed from time to time as I constantly modify the car and the resulting weight balance changes become immediatly noticable when the entire car is balanced upon the two steel rods that are inserted into these tubes. At the current time it will hover at exactly 50/50 on this bar (need to start removing something up front to reduce that front-end weight again). Here is what I did:

Installing the spacer will have a very small effect on the camber. it will lower the outer pivot point, and because the length of the lower control arm is fixed, the camber will change very slightly. Check out the currently running string (link below)about camber change angles. The author (tholt) has measured the amount of camber change with a 1" bump and rebound, and this would seem to fit into your query. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130005

Judging from the photos, I'd guess home-made products here. I don't know of any factory supported pieces like this. Interesting front arm design. First time I've seen one quite like that.

So...how far below the crossmember will your pan extend? Mine rides about 1" below the crossmember with the plane of the bellhousing about 1" forward of the firewall.

If the 240Z axles and threads are in good shape when you pull them, I may be interested in purchasing them from you.

IF I understand this query correctly, then I would suggest you use the Astro input shaft and simply change the clutch disc. I would suggest you talk to Astro because I believe (hope I'm right here) that the astro input shaft is a 26 spline, 1 1/16" shaft, which is a GM shaft...isn't it?). So I don't think this will work. BTW, I've got the G-force gear-set, and it is the above set-up, which I think is identical to the Astro stuff (or close to it).

Is brake cooling air primarilly used for vented rotors? I ask because the air is vented to the hub portion of the rotor where the rotor vents pick it up and vents it out to the circumference of the rotor (thus cooling the entire rotor). A non-vented rotor would simply have cool (supposedly) air blown onto one side only, which to me would/could cause some issues of one side of the rotor being a different temperature from the other side of the same rotor. Would this cause the rotor to distort into a very slight concave/convex shape in a worse case scenario?

The t-5 is a fine transmission, especially behind the OEM powerplants. Issues I heard are related to 3rd gear on hard shifting with high torque powerplants (strong V8 power), or 5th gear pulls. What are your options if you don't want the T-5?

Mine is behind the radiator and simply directs air out and up from the radiator and keeps it out from the under-hood area.

Happy birthday Pete!

Savage: Any issues with the front differential crossmember modified as shown in the photograph? The thinner material over the extra hump has me wondering about future implications?

great information! This brings up an issue that I've observed in myself as well as others, and that's the assumption what when camber plates are installed, and the car lowered, that the middle setting of the plates will equate to zero camber. I've found that for zero camber on a lowered car (depending on how low you go), usually you end up on the outer limit of the slot range.

I'd like to add that the Ford has two different lengths for the input shafts, and I SUSPECT the GM counterpart has a different length as well.

Google T-5 and you'll find noticable differences in torque capacities as well and slight internal differences between manufacturers (e.g Ford has a slight internal difference to the GM T-5s).