blueovalz

I tried to pull the part number up on their web site, but no photo of the part is available, and I cannot tell by price or description what you purchased.

Short answer; No (not a 240 caliper). Now with that said, the fact that the 4 lug 300ZX rotor will fit correctly onto a 240 hub leads me to think that if nothing else changed except the drilling for a 5 lug pattern, the 5 lug 300ZX rotor (Z31) should fit snuggly as well. I only threw that consideration out earlier because I have no experience in swapping the 5 lug hubs.

You'd better contact the manufacturer of the speedo. They should know which OEM electronic pick-ups will work.

I cannot see why this would not work as long as the rotor has a tight fit (hubcentric?) around the hub just as it does around the OEM hub.

We could further the cause by adding to the "rules" the need to consider pertinent KEY words in the title of any new post. It's hard to look for a post about a great hybrid swap when the thread is titled "Guess what I got!" The easier the search goes for new members, the less we will be repeating ourselves.

My opinion is the 19's would function well, but I don't care for the overly large diameter wheels. My 17's are on the aesthetic edge of being too large, but this is a personal point of view.

Pecan trees, pumping station, and a economically depressed? I can only think of one place where all three exist and thats somewhere in the delta region near the Mississippi (Lake Village, Dermot area???)

Any reduction in lift is a great thing. Don't feel bad if you cannot get the "downforce" you want as any reduction in lift is a net gain in keeping the car on the road.

I used this method one time just to get some kind of "idea" of the effects of the "nascar" type of spoiler. The weight of the pipe (steel thin walled conduit) on the end toward the floorboard was roughly 4 lbs, but I had serveral pipes in the car, and the hatch's pressure on the end pushing down, forced the long side up off the floor at about 80 mph.

I've only heard tid-bits of information about the lack of downforce with the G-nose, but they all point to the same conclusion. What I've not seen is information in regards to how far forward the dam needs to be in order negate this issue.

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll follow up on this, and at least now I feel I've got enough confidence to spend the money and experiment a little.

Don't they lower the pivot point by, in essence, extending the length of the bottom of the strut housing?

Here in Arkansas that 380K will buy a 5 year old home at about 100/sq ft. (3800 sq ft with a 3 car garage and an acre of land).

It could be the MC or the SC (Slave Cylinder). Either one going bad (leaking or blown seal) will give the same symptoms. I don't think either is real expensive, and I'd go ahead and replace both while you're at it.

Thanks Tim. I may just have to trial-and-error this. Did you need to "pull" and squeegy in order to get it to smooth out. If so, this would make me think that the film may get very thin in areas that pulling is required around sharper curves. I've heard of videos being available to assist the tenderfoot in this, so this may be what I need to find.

Excessive toe-in is a common problem for some passenger side S30 suspensions, but I've not heard of the problem being so bad that it balds the outside of the tire. I believe the problem stemed from inaccurate drilling of the strut spindle pin boss, causing the strut to point in a different angle than the designers intented. "They both seem to be toe-in" sounds like you've not measured it to know for sure. I know visually, it will look this way with the way the lip angles across the top of the tire. I'd look at your camber settings before you do anything, especially if you drive like I do.

I'm going to purchase some of this product this spring and apply it to some vulnerable areas on my car. Has anybody applied this product, and if so, would they give a brief description of how it is applied and any pitfalls to avoid? My biggest concern is this film's ability (or inability) to follow compound curves.

I can see this happening soon (just changed oil on my 197K '92).

Need I say the "H" word as well? Let's see now...the #1 post whore, the Monguuz, and now the Opel (I'm sure this will use the OEM powerplant ). Jeez! Must have never got any attention as a kid

What a brute!! Yes, keep the photos coming in, especially fitment.

Tim, If you've not already commited to a specific number of transfers, then cancel my order for 2 decals as the other 2 (and only 2) transfers were my primary need. Hope this helps somewhat (I'm assuming from your post you'd be sending me 4 transfers, but I only need 2). Thanks for the update.

Back when this took place a barometer was a frame, approximately 1 meter tall (thus it could measure the pressure of air at sea level ~30" all the way down to a vacuum - 0 inches as the column of mercury moved up or down this amount in the glass tube), and consisted of an attached evacuated glass tube with a scale beside it, whose open end was placed in a pool of mercury. A rather cumbersome device. No wonder he felt dropping it would do justice!

The following concerns a question in a physics degree exam at the University of Copenhagen. “Describe how to determine the height of a skyscraper with a barometer.” One student replied: “You tie a long piece of string to the neck of the barometer, then lower the barometer from the roof of the skyscraper to the ground. The length of the string plus the length of the barometer will equal the height of the building.” This highly original answer so incensed the examiner that the student was failed. The student appealed on the grounds that his answer was indisputably correct, and that the university appoint an independent arbiter to decide the case. The arbiter judged that the answer was indeed correct, but decided to call the student in and allow him six minutes in which to provide a verbal answer, which showed at least a minimal familiarity with the basic principles of physics. For five minutes the student sat in silence, forehead creased in thought. The arbiter reminded him that time was running out, to which the student replied that he had several relevant answers, but couldn’t make up his mind which to use. On being advised to hurry up the student replied as follows: “Firstly, you could take the barometer up to the roof of the skyscraper, drop it over the edge, and measure the time it takes to reach the ground. The height of the building can then be worked out from the formula H=.5g x t squared, but bad luck for the barometer.” “Or if the sun is shining you could measure the height of the barometer, then set it on end and measure the length of its shadow. Then you measure the length of the skyscraper’s shadow, and thereafter it is a simple matter of proportional arithmetic to work out the height of the skyscraper.” “But if you wanted to be highly scientific about it, you could tie a short piece of string to the barometer and swing it like a pendulum, first at the ground level and then on the roof of the skyscraper. The height is worked out by the difference in the gravitational restoring force T+2 pi Sq root (I/g).” “Or if the skyscraper has an outside emergency staircase, it would be easier to walk up it and mark off the height of the skyscraper in barometer lengths, then add them up” “If you merely wanted to be boring and orthodox about it, of course, you could use the barometer to measure the air pressure on the roof of the skyscraper and on the ground, and convert the difference in millibars into feet to give the height of the building.” “But since we are constantly being exhorted to exercise independence of mind and apply scientific methods, undoubtedly the best way would be to knock on the janitor’s door and say to him ‘If you would like a nice new barometer, I will give you this one if you tell me the height of this skyscraper’.” The student was Niels Bohr, the only person from Denmark to win the Nobel Prize for Physics.

Zyoul8r; Thanks for the compliment on the car. You've got a sharp looking Z as well! In regards to the mustache bar's function, I must respectfully disagree. Engage the emergency brake of any Z and apply engine torque (while in gear) and watch the dynamics of the differential. One reason the mustache bar is designed like it is (extended arms with bushings at the ends), is to offer improved lever moment to resist torque. The long arms on the bar provide this function. The bushings on the bar are designed to provide a "ramped" counterforce against the movement up or down (the sawtooth pattern of the bushing's engaged surface) which controls both up and down concerted movement, but also twisting as well. The front mount will provide a good deal of up/down counterforce but is not designed to resist any twisting (look how narrow the mount is). The mustache bar takes care of the right angle forces that the front mount cannot. This is why you will hear of instances where the mustache bar gets broken occasionally (rarely, and with large torque motors), and why an OEM strap over the top of the differential's nose helps keep the tension forces from exceeding the OEM mount's limits.

Jon, you beat me to it. My opinion is either all solid, or all flexible, but no mixing. Can you imagine using motor mounts in which one side is solid, but the other mount is flexible? Guess which will fail.