bart628

+1 Finished product looks great.

+1 That's pretty amazing for $1500 budget.

What they're doing is quite similar to what defrag010 did in this thread: 3.4L L28 stroker Similar 3.5"/89mm stroke with a reworked L28 crank. And then trying a .090" or .120" overbore... Quite tempting

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149029 for fiberglass OEM fenders.

Reading my issue of Grassroots Motorsports (great mag by the way) and came upon Paeco Industries. Not too much information on them but they do offer a stroker kit by the looks of it.

Considering you have toe-in, I'd check the condition of the steering knuckle arm which connects the outer tie rods to the strut assembly. That component besides the tie-rods and control arm could affect the static toe if not straight.

From my old S4 Turbo II (KTS Coilovers, Mazdatrix outer tie-rods, Lowered about 1"). Would've corrected it by adding a spacer above the front ball joint, but sold the car before then. Compression on Macpherson strut with positive LCA angle equals positive camber; so I dialed in some negative static camber to compensate.

4-barrel intake: THE FACTS Interesting thread about certain merits between the 4-barrel and SU setups. IMO purchase and install the 4-barrel Holley setup. If it doesn't meet your expectations, rebuild the SU's and sell the Holley setup.

Yeah I knew that; just making sure the price and such info got published being that there's such an interest in the KA24DE 240Z swap.

McKinney Motorsports kindly replied to my email with the following: "The KA24DE 240Z Mount Kit is the same kit as the 240Z SR20DET Mount Kit $499.99+shipping and surcharge."

alexdeprat: If you're looking for Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass Hatches, Beta Motorsports produces some beautiful examples. Does say that it can mount stock window and such, but might require modification for hatch shock which is simple.

Using SkYBlue280Z's very pretty car as an example, the wheels fit fine and without necessitating fender flares. The only concern would possibly be the aftermarket brake clearance because it's neutral offset and what looks to be low-disk. But that's not too big a concern in this is a popular wheel package which still has a group buy thread going on this forum.

Goodness, that's too funny!

From this thread. So use the F54/L28 Head Gasket for your application.

My bad; reading your thread and such that totally makes sense. Just copy and pasted without much thought. But I do agree with dan5138 that wheel fitment would be much cooler with a cantilever rear suspension.

fc3spro.com "A cantilever suspension suspension system removes the damper and springs away from the wheel hubs and runs them remotely via a bell-crank system. By moving the damper and springs, unsprung weight is greatly reduced - the wheels and tires react a lot quicker to changing road conditions." I could see the benefit of such a system, but less unsprung weight with a higher center of gravity. Additionally, the rear suspension of 240sx is already independent, so there's less of a gain to say doing the same for the Z's Chapman strut or the FC's semi-trailing arm setup. That's beside the point considering, that as you've all said, the quality looks debatable; Interesting no less.

Not much to tell from the pictures, but you do seem well informed. Being that the LS swap is well documented, I'm sure you'll be able to find your answers from many of the helpful members of this forum.

Definitely feeling the offset on the rears of Big Red.

Looking up American JDM parts vendors, RHD Japan updated their stock to include Kameari FRP body parts which come at a naturally high price.

Misspellings aside, the only vendor I've seen is Bad Dog Parts (who produce nifty frame rail reinforcements). Check under their Exterior section, but caution in that I don't know if that's current stock. So calling them would be your best bet.

I'd suggest putting on the E88+Holley 390 CFM based on simplicity or light modifications. But if you plan to eventually turbo or extensively modify the engine down the road, I'd suggest the 280z fuel injected head which allows you to use MS-II or whatever electronic fuel management in the future.

+1 Definitely a good watch.

Can't wait for results. Subscribed.

The OEM 240z and 280z radiators only differ slightly in height and possibly thickness. I have Arizona Z Car's Aluminum Radiator that says the difference is just that 280z radiators hang two inches lower. This point is reinforced by the fact that MSA Aluminum Radiators are universal between the manual S30 chassis. I personally vouch for the quality and price of the Arizona Z Car unit, but for your RB swap, I would consider the McKinney Motorsports RB/240z radiator (at the bottom of the page) that has the appropriate water intlet/outlet and hose OD's. Convenient, but pricey.

Looks good. Lovin' the aluminum FC lower control arms.