SleeperZ

Is your fuel pump too big for the regulator return line or regulator return outlet? You may have too much restriction - if you drive the car and see the pressure drop down, that may be the problem.

No. The Walbro is junk. Even the "255" will not flow any real amount of fuel over 60psi (base fuel pressure + boost pressure). If you are going to be running over 15 psi (and with your list of goodies, I cetainly hope so), get an MSD or good Bosch pump capable of flow at high pressure. Some folks also recommend the Pierberg from Bell Engineering.

I've run the same T5 in my ZT now for years, haven't had any trouble with it. It was PITA to install, but now that it's in, I like it.

Probably meant "nitrided" - it's a heat treatment for surface hardening. BTW, that thing on Ebay is so far from stock it's not funny.

It's generally agreed upon you can boost a stock turbo to upwards of 17 psi. 9-10 psi is about the safe maximum without an intercooler, and the stock fuel system can support 12-13 psi intercooled (all boost numbers at sea level - my elevation I can push about 2 psi more).

For the money and the effort to get that turbo installed, you could get the correct one done. The price of the turbo will have a small impact on the total cost of installation (ex. manifold, fuel system, plumbing). And if you run 8 psi on that dinky turbo, you may need an intercooler. And believe me when I say 8 psi will not be enough, and you will have to redo everything to get a real turbo installed

Not "maybe" - "yes" I've done it, and it works so much better.

True - with these changes. Note the calipers are 280ZX, and require the threads in the strut to be drilled out, and custom shims (washers) to properly align the caliper to the rotor. If this is for a 280, you need the 240 hubs. You also have to do some grinding on the caliper to clear the factory 14" alloys, but I would think any 15" wheel will clear. A true budget brake upgrade - cost me about $275 including new street pads, rotors, machine work, used calipers (rebuilt), and scrapyard hubs with new bearings, seals and rubber brake hoses.

I'm going to chime in here, and be a post whore. I completely agree with Pete. In my track experience and experimentation with brake upgrades, I still get outdriven by a person who is using stock solid rotors, but a high temp brake fluid and carbon fiber pads. I have the ZX calipers, vented rotors and good brake fluid, but street pads. They work very well, and for many laps, but my braking ability diminishes from cold(not fade, they still work). I believe getting a good pad will reduce the fluid temperatures and help me brake better on the track.

Part of the problem with reducing the value of the temperature sensor to shorten the DC is now you can't get back to the high duty cycle with the bigger injectors, part of the reason to install them to begin with. I'm not sure that would happen, but when the ECU hits the top of it's air map, it may not go to max duty cycle (anyone confirm or deny this?) I am also thinking the air bypass may work better with the MAF sensor, since it has low restriction. The bypass flow may actually be roughly linear with airflow through the MAF.

Yep AMAF, you should have the email with the slip details already

Could use some more details on your setup, especially for we folks on the other side of the equator. Is this on a Z? Most Z folks run Garrett series turbos, so if you had some more details (engine size, boost level, intercooler capy), we could possibly steer you towards one of those. I've never looked at IHI turbos myself - it seems like some of the small Subaru setups in the US used them, but they really are too small, unsuitable for a Z(ed).

Edit - actually, I just noticed you have a ZX

That looks very nice. Where does the AFM end up mounting - looks like low in front of the left strut tower? Be nice if you could add a fitting for a compressor bypass...(a BOV that returns to the turbo inlet) if you were so inclined to install one. Actually, I think a BOV doesn't help one bit rocovering boost after a throttle lift. I think my car is faster without throttle lifts while shifting.

Wow, that is soooo encouraging to hear. That is the exact drag radial and size I am running. I am driving a 5 speed, not an auto, and the best short time I've got yet is 1.9. That is a little better than my best on street tires, but damn, those are some good 60' times!! Congrats!

Which part number NGK did you get? I am running the BPR7ES, one heat range cold. I checked them last night, and they were a nice tan color with some carbon buildup - have some tuning work I think, before it will pass emissions.

That looks like the Supra MK3 unit. I hear they are quite restrictive as well.

OMFG. 600cfm. Ya, right, with 0psi pressure. Try 10 cfm at 1 psi. Can you say "intake restriction"? Yeah, including the squirrel cage "turbo". I have nothing against people making a buck. Let the buyer beware.

You beat me to it Scotty. That is where I was going to go when I upgraded my injectors. I think it can work, but please don't lean it out too much !!! (we want your engine to last, so you can at least find out whether the mod will work)

Damn - that is a serious clutch. Yes, it is 203% of stock (103% INCREASE). I know the Mitsubishi motors get crankwalk issues with stout clutches, has anyone heard of similar issues with nasty cluches on L28s ????

103% of stock power is 187 hp. Not a good deal unless you meant 203% of stock power. From what I hear ClutchMasters makes a good clutch, and for high HP, folks do not like the CenterForce. I am still using a CenterForce II without any problems for 4 years now, but only recently am I making close to 300hp.

I'm looking at the spec sheet on the Schneider cam. It's definitely NOT an N/A cam, as it goes like a bat out of hell. I will hopefully get a better comparison, by swapping it and not modifying my boost level, and just run it at the strip again. The duration is 240/230 at 0.050", which is a bit more than the JWT. With this duration, at 0.050" this cam has -7* overlap, so obviously the ramp angles are fairly extreme. I don't doubt the JWT cam will be good, especially if they start with a new billet, instead of a regrind (like mine).

Hey Shane - The guy who built my head bought the rockers for me, not sure where, but they set me back a bit. Try $18 each (thanks, may I have another?) I think that's the right number (I can check my old receipt - Brian Schillinger built the head)

Even if the pumps are not too good at self-priming, I can't see how it's a concern mounting them at the same level or slightly above the sump. Before they are ever fired up, gravity will prime them, as I assume you will fill the tank before applying power... So even if you do run the tank low, since the pumps are primed, a slight pull, or draw, will not run the pump dry and cause it to "eat itself". If an electric fuel pump cannot deal with a 3"-6" draw, it is a POS.

That sounds like a pretty good cam. I'm all ears if someone wants to fork over the $$ and evaluate it In short order, I intend to re-install my P90 with the 270/280 Schneider cam - that has about the same lift, and I love the way it pulls...is the 256 duration on the JWT at .050" lash?