SleeperZ

Properly prepped (balanced, shot peened, ARP bolts), the stock rods will have no problems, especially with the HP.

I don't know about filling the wheel well, but I run 215/60/14s and they work very well for the street with lowered springs. Not too harsh on rough surfaces, and a fair sidewall for cornering. Of course they don't stick real well, but that's most likely because I paid $5 each for them from a scrapyard.

Excellent info James!

One acronym: MAF Flows better, easier to tune. Mileage is very good too - if someone with a 280ZX factory ECU is doing better than low 20's, I haven't heard. I get 26-27 mpg cruising FAST. I would think an ECU from any Z31 turbo would work fine. There is rewiring required, especially if you want the fuel pump to be as safe as with a factory car (ie: shuts off when the car stalls).

Why twin? A big single might cost a little more, but it will spool faster and the plumbing is lots easier. Look at the Supra folks, or any other high performance inline motor. Twins work well for V motors where plumbing can get hairy side to side.

Wow - that would be one sweeeeeet conversion.

Oh, wait, it's been done. Just give a visit to www.hybridz.org and check out these guys - they actually take the muscle from a V8 or large displacement turbo inline 6, mate it to a light weight Datsun 240Z (cool looking cars too..), and wham - 10 second cars for less than $10,000 invested! Who wudda thunk????

Highly unlikely the hydrogen and oxygen separate in the combustion chamber. Water is a by-product OF the combustion process - the chemical bond is extremely strong. The energy required to separate the two would not result in a more energetic reaction anyway - you are not starting from a higher energy state.

What I think you are asking is how does the alternator charge the battery when the engine isn't started? The short answer is - it doesn't. The battery supplies all the energy needed to turn the starter, fire the plugs, run the ECU (if you have one) until the motor is turning fast enough for the alternator to return the energy to the battery. The reason the alternator doesn't drain the battery when it is unable to charge it are diodes that allow current flow in one direction. HTH

It seems to me water/alcohol injection is a poor substitute for intercooling. The water/alcohol mixture possibly cannot increase the density of the air like an intercooler can (this is just me speculating..) It seems to me that reducing the cause of detonation by lowering the temperature is a more direct solution than displacing some of your air volume with stuff that just inhibits the burn.

Well said Pete.

$15,000 - $17,000 to run 10's in a 'stang

Well, it ain't pretty. It was originally forest green, and had a cheap black paint job added before I got it. I've done nothing for it body-wise since. I took off the bumpers and rock panel facia, so there are green and rusty stripes around the bottom edges. Ride height looks stock, factory 6 spoke alloys (very light), and a 2-1/2" muffler. I spray painted my FMIC flat black, so it's hard to see. Maybe you've seen me? Give a wave if you do - I'm at Bandimere tonight for tuning, and that may be it for the drag race season.

It's sad to see a potential hybridz bite the dust, but these kids were damn lucky (aside from being totally stupid). Crash in Denver area I am posting this not just as a deterrent to street racing, but the kid who broke his neck is in my wife's homeroom class... Be safe, OK?

Highly questionable it will give you hp. The FI is fairly well optimized for accelleration - add more fuel it gets richer, but no faster. BTW, I doubt very much the fuel delivery is RPM independent after 4000 rpm - if this were true, you'd get lean in one big hurry going to redline. AMAF, the mixture (at least according to my mixture meter ) is flat rich all the way up the rpm and boost range.

I did nothing to my motor while it was on the stand. If you have good compression, leave it alone. Just use it to tune the system in preparation for an injector/intercooler/ECU upgrade. Case in point - SHANE bought junkyard motors and ran 11's and 12's for seasons, without even removing the head. If you do decide to build it, metal head gaskets and o-ringing don't go together. Pick one sealing method and stay with it. Metal gasket is a good way to go. I don't know that many people still o-ring the blocks, although I hear it works well with stock gaskets. ARP studs and bottom end hardware is cheap and good insurance. Unless you go all out, stock Nissan parts are the way to go.

Actually, it sounds like they are selling a resistor to wire into your temp sensor. Pathetic - charging $5.00 plus the high bid...I wouldn't risk my reputation for such a cheesey mod.

1 wreaked '82 ZXT, runs, $7501 intercooler, piping fabbed, $500 1 clutch, $200 total - $1450 There is no fab cost if you go with a Nissan tranny. Stock turbos can do low 13s with stock injectors and pump, especially in a 240 - I took off the bumpers and AC to get my weight down. mpg varies, I get 26-27 averaging 85 mph, but I have a factory 300zx ECU. You could get 23-24 with 280zx ECU.

This is an interesting thread, but this question caught me - how do you run a dry shot with CARBS?? Would you run way lean with the shot, or way rich when not juicing it?

The turbo swap is cheap and reliable because you have fuel injection (just ask Pete ). It is also fairly cheap to get good power out of, and you get good mileage at the same time. It's not so clear cut, Cyrus Maybe a V8 conversion is easier if you are good at fabrication (not me), but if you are good with wiring (me), the turbo wins hands down, especially at altitude (5800'), my turbo rules the V8s.

I can't speak to most of this, but a "hotter" cam will make more power because it makes more torque at higher rpm.

Well next year I get my classic plates - pay 5 years registration in advance, pass emissions, and then never worry about it again - no more emissions.

Consider this - 3.0 liters from 2.8 liters is a 7% increase in displacement, and it will certainly be a very expensive 7% increase in power. You can make a L28ET with 300 whp very streetable - you can even do it without removing the valve cover. Intercooler, upgraded turbo, and fuel system, probably a standalone control unit unless you are very resourceful. I have 260 whp right now with just this setup, with a STOCK fuel system.

I told you it was friggin' rich, Shane! Very nice numbers too.