SleeperZ

R200 LSD diffs came in '87-'89 Z31 turbo models only. There was a funky viscous model in some white-bodied anniversary edition (the SE?) that is a bit more challenging to install. The R230s came in Z32s and Infiniti Q45s - not sure which ones were LSD though....these are NOT straight-forward to install.

I upgraded my factory turbo with a hybrid T3/T04B with the Super V compressor wheel. This is what I ended up with anyway, I just bought a turbo "upgrade" from Jim Cook Racing before I knew anything about turbos. For once, I didn't get burned - it is an excellent street turbo. There were some small modifications to the wastegate actuator mounting and J-pipe to make it fit. If you aren't into any mods, some people run a factory turbo with an upgraded GN compressor wheel in the stock housing. This bolts in with no modifications.

Scottie - that is way cool. What material did you end up using for the adapter? Will it need balancing? I am always amazed at your energy and ingenuity for fabrication.

I think he could probably get away with the 350rwhp for a while, if there are no other tuning problems -- case in point, there is a local Honda guy who ran a 12.8 in his turbocharged Acura (4 cylinder) with stock injectors (215cc I think). Granted, he destroyed his motor shortly afterward, but he got much more power than what you would expect from the theoretical 150hp from 4 215cc injectors. Now whose case did I make here? BTW, I am now running 14 psi on a stock L28ET and stock injectors (259cc, 37psi fuel pressure), still pegging 0.9V on my mixture gauge (near redline). At 12 psi, I was putting 230hp to the ground (10 psi corrected to sea level). I will try to calculate my whp on the higher boost soon. As soon as I see the mixture start to lean out, I will stop boosting, and will probably move to 370cc injectors shortly afterward. The car is never done

I just run my hood popped, held by the stock latch hook. If it unhooks, it won't rise enough to obscure my vision, so I'm comfortable running it popped - even at the strip.

Because it cools by "convection" ??? And a little bit of "conduction" ??

All the places in Denver, turbos run $35-$50, U-pull-it.

I'm not sure if your problem is the bleeder boost control or not. Try taking the length out of it just to see if it helps. Your slow boost may be due to a plugged cat, or restricted intake. All the folks I know running manual boost controllers swear by the ball-and-spring type rather than bleeders - I had the MSA bleeder type and HATED it. I am running the 1st gen. DSM BOV. It is working very well for me - no leaks, vents into my intake. I'm running 12-13 psi boost.

I'm not a troll! Really! 850hp NOT ENOUGH!!

Yep, you found it. I used the crossmember from a 280ZXT with an automatic (don't know if it's the same as the manual ZXT), but I still had to slot the holes in the transmission and the tranny mount to accomodate it. Don't know what driveshaft issues there are, as I had a custom one built for about $200.

It sounds to me like the pump has no anti-drainback valve in it. If your regulator regulates pressure, and it sounds like it is, it will hold the pressure when the pump is off. So the fuel pressure must be bleeding back through the pump. Find out what the fuel pressure is doing when you are driving, or with a load on it - that will tell you if the pump can keep up with the fuel demands of the engine. 70gph huh? What head pressure and battery voltage is that 70 gallons measured?

My latest engine I got for $150. It had a bad turbo, and I pulled it myself. For motor alone, that's a pretty good deal. Your fastest, cheapest initial solution is to find a donor that runs - I found a ZX that was wrapped around a tree and paid $750 (drove it home). Then you have all the support electronics, sensors and wires needed to pull off the swap.

I can't speak on Z31 motors. A turbo swap would be much easier, but's that's no excuse The L28ET is a great motor.

I just redrilled the holes on the stock bracket to accommodate my hybrid turbo. I imagine you could do the same for a reclocked stock T3.

That quote was from the link I posted up higher on the thread...it was a huge page, and I can't pretend I read the whole thing - I just reposted what was relevant to the thread.

Way too small. Think about how big that Isuzu engine is - max CFM on that thing is probably 300, which is less than a ZXT stock. Get a properly-sized IC so you only have to route tubes once.

Well, to date it's been all talk, but it could happen this fall after racing season winds down. What I plan to do is fit a socket to the ROM chip location in the ECU, and try to get the ECU to run with a ROM emulator after tranferring the factory code inside it. There are a couple folks out there that think they know the proper locations for ignition timing and fuel injector pulse data - these parameters could be changed and reloaded quickly while on the road, but it will take a while to narrow in on tuning. Once the fine tuning has been done, it's easy enough to burn a chip for more permanent operation. Who knows if I'll get around to it - just another project for me to consider, as if I don't have enough already....

Here's the balls

Here is a link that might be helpful. There is lots of info here, including "mothballs" and a re-iteration of the detonation information posted the other day. fuel information

Sorry, can't agree on the noise thing. I always get a kick (if I have my earplugs in )out of watching a V8 at the strip run open headers making sounds like it will turn an 11 second 1/4, but only turn a 15... I love it when they line up against a turbo car (like mine ) and they get smoked by at least -40dB and 2 seconds.

Good thing I live in a drought stricken desert, eh?

There is not much available in the 215/60/14, but that is the size I am using. I went with that because BFG makes a drag radial in that size, and I've put some miles on them now. It is much too squirrelly for a daily driver, and curves are strange - feels like you are driving a truck (albeit a quick one) with a load of rocks in the back. They sure do grip though, nothing will take you out of the hole, at least to 60'

Excellent article - makes lots more sense now!

Considering the stock T3 turbine is a .63 A/R, the T4 A/R of .93 sounds way too big. I am not too knowledgable on turbine selection, but if I had no guidance, I'd pick a T4 of .63 or smaller on the exhaust.

I got my 215/60/14s from Tire Rack for $93 each, and only $20 for shipping. No strip test yet....as soon as family leaves town, I'm running!!